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R50 rear drive-shaft difference


Lemay
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Hi,

 

My QX4 need rear drive-shaft, it's shaking alot, and i've try to swap a wd21 rear drive shaft 3 mont ago.

 

The thing swap right in exept the nose of the d-shaft (the part that goes in the t-case.... yoke?) is too long, the dust cap is far from the t-case

 

The qx4 is with the electronic t-case so my question is : Is all R50 d-shaft are all the same or the tx10a and the electronic version are different?

 

I assume that with the TX10 R50 the d-shaft will be a long (yoke?) VS the d-shaft from a electronic t-case who is nearly halft the lenght ( i call it short nose lol)....

 

so i'm wrong or not? lol

 

Try go get the answer before my JY run and at work i can't download FSM.

 

Tanks alot

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Judging by the parts options listed at CourtesyParts.com for the R50, there is a different driveshaft for the all-mode t-cases versions than the part-time t-cases. Since all the QX4s had all-mode (right?), I presume it used the same all-mode driveshaft.

 

However, if the difference is just the yoke, it wouldn't surprise me if you could just swap that to the D21 driveshaft. The p/n for the u-joint is 37126-VB925 (old p/n is 37126-C9425), and that appears to be used on just about every Nissan truck/SUV driveshaft pre-2004 (per NissanParts.cc results). Of course, if the u-joint is the problem...well, there's your p/n. :D

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Was your vibration caused by a bent or damaged shaft? Unless that's the case, you most likely just have bad u-joints which is an easy fix (answer long as parts availability isn't much of an issue wherever you are). To more directly answer your question: the driveshaft is in fact a different part # for manual and all-metal t-case.

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tanks alot guys!! That exacly what i want to know! :happy:

 

Hawairish : tanks alot! very good info, forget to remember that CourtesyParts.com exist, Didn't think either to swap the yoke, i will try this first.... damn another thing to do this weekend lol

 

djratlif: tanks but no need to, now that i know that two drive shaft type exist, all is more clear now. Tank you for your offer

 

01Pathmaker : the d-shaft is at 404 000km now, so it pretty used-up lol, i didn't see a bent or a play in the u-join. I want to try another d-shaft for that reason, before spend on getting the u-join rebuild at nissan. I read case that even a u-join change didn't fix the issue, so i'm more inclined to try another d-shaft and see if it's ok than rebuild the one on the QX4 and have a chance that this didn't fix anything

 

 

 

For another time, tanks alot for your answer guys!! :happy:

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No sweat! But wait, there's more...

 

I just remembered this post from Fleurys. Before disassembling things, take a look at the snap rings. He notes inner vs. outer rings for automatic vs manual (respectively). Plus, he provides the part numbers for aftermarket u-joints.

 

...and despite Courtesy selling 37126-VB925 for $66/ea (wtf?!), the NEAPCO units Fleurys went with are going for $3/each(!!) on RockAuto.com, fronts and rears! Plus some other cheap options...I'd say if you're going to remove that yoke, may as well replace the u-joints.

 

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lol... even more information! :lol:

 

Tanks for the link of the post, yeah that pretty what nissan victoriaville want (us is like 80$ CAN) each u-join + time.... on a 400$ canadian buck QX4.... lol...

 

This thing is so rusty, there are 3 perforation on the subframe big enough that i can nearly put my hand in the subframe (nissan still put it on lift lol), panhard rod was broken (absent!!!) when a bought it and drive it home (this was interesting). so I'm sure the rear d-shaft as take angle and side to side sway that nissan never intended, enough to get it offspecs/broken.

 

I have mutiple rear d-shaft (and front one too) in the rolling shed so i want to try something free first.

Will try to swap the front one with a wd21/wd22 front-dshaft too, they are the same to the point that i dont even know who is the wd21 d-shaft and who is the wd22 d-shaft in the shed lol ( the rear and front!)

 

 

If all goes well i will rebuild a good d-shaft with the NEAPCO one... just want to be sure, really sure that is the d-shaft the problem. The truck is sitting on the bumpstop too, i would think it's not helping it... lol

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Just for the record, I did the u-joints on the rear shaft of my 01 (manual t-case) about 2 months ago (at 145000 miles), mine has inner snap rings, I installed Moog (about $12US) grease able u-joints as I like to be able to maintain all possible moving parts. If you are mechanically inclined, have a bench vise, hammer, snap ring pliers, grease gun, appropriate sized sockets (1 slightly larger than the u-joint cap and 1 slightly smaller) and 1-2 hours, it's easy enough to do yourself. As for the driveshaft being worn out, I've seen worn slip yokes and bad/dry/worn/stiff u-joints, but the shaft itself cannot wear out. A damaged shaft (dented/twisted/smashed/cracked) or a missing weight would be an issue.

Edited by 01Pathmaker
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This thing is so rusty, there are 3 perforation on the subframe big enough that i can nearly put my hand in the subframe (nissan still put it on lift lol), panhard rod was broken (absent!!!) when a bought it and drive it home (this was interesting). so I'm sure the rear d-shaft as take angle and side to side sway that nissan never intended, enough to get it offspecs/broken.

 

Uhhh...no panhard bar? :blink: A little extra sway on the drive? Did it rust off or something?

 

Seems worth a shot since you have the driveshafts laying around. Planning to flip this vehicle or something?

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lol!!! good emoticon.... this was exactly my face :blink: when a look under the truck and see only a piece of the panhard (like 1 feet) rusty and broken on the frame side.

I was like.... Mmmm there is something that is missing!!! No joke, never tought this piece of the suspension can broke

I run a 1997 panhard rod on the 2001.5 QX4.... JY was telling me that is not the same year and will not fit, i respond them: you know nothing just give me the damn thing.

This give you idea how bad car/truck can get rusty in the moron state that i live who salt road like this. I've seen salt rock break windshield when they get airborne by passing car...

 

This is my winter daily driver truck, yes you have read DD lol, i run it last winter with the vibration but i want to repair it to do damage to the t-case or diff, do a brake job (i do brake job on my each of my truck each 6 month), repair the frame, repair hole in the door, change front wing that i get for 40$ at nissan (yess a OEM front wing for 40 buck!!) and drive it until it can't be drive on hiway/city safely, on that time, it will take the place of my Trailerqueen to be a QX4 trail monster.

My wd21 trailerqueen is on it's last leg, the frame is completly shot even with multiple repair and i feel the frond diff hit the floor pan or something like that when the front flex... this is piss me off to see good body, exelent motor that run like a brand new but the frame of the truck barely hold himself (insert cry emoticon here) lol

 

Edited by Lemay
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  • 2 weeks later...

hahaha!! Yeah You are right. I will not make a debate... but damn that people (and students) here can be dump.

 

The only thing is great here is the north where it is full of no-man-lands (I'm from chibougamaux lol), you can drive 12h in one direction and not getting to the border who is a awesome thing, no mandatory safety inspection/smog (I REALLLLLLY love that lol) and cheap insurance.

Cops are stupid and the new rule for lifted 4x4 is bad to the point that the the rallye ''jeppy'' here in Victoriaville is for stock truck if you don't want your truck being put in ''no drivable condition'' and get tow on the scene by the SQ.... what a mess....

 

maybe a government a little bit too communist?

 

Edited by Lemay
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