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Need Help Broke down in Ohio


7river
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I have a 99 pathfinder

Was driving from Upper Peninsula Mi to Catskill Mtns of NY.

Noticed idle was rough, then felt like miss.

500 miles into trip just lost power and died.

Had towed to father-n-laws by Toledo.

 

This is what I did

Checked spark out of cap w/ spark tester

Got spark all cylinders. Did not seem super strong, not sure what it should be.

Distributor was replaced not long ago by previous owner.

 

Broke fuel line free by manifold and fuel sprayed out.

Can hear pump come on and sounds like fuel spraying in tank?

 

Cranked engine w/ pedal to floor and spray start fluid in air box.

 

nothing

 

Any advice would be great.

I am stuck and broke. Need to feed my kids.

Thanks for reading

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With your foot to the floor it won't ever start, that signals the ECU to cut spark and fuel to the engine. Flood clear mode.

 

Pull the distributor cap off and inspect. If it's worn out along with the rotor that could be your issue.

 

Also check for spark through the plugs, not just the cap.

 

How does the engine crank? Normally or sound funky? If so crank the engine with the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor turns consistently. If it doesn't you have a slipped timing belt which more often than not means a rebuild as the valves kissed the pistons.

Edited by Kingman
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I replaced the cap and button, no difference.

I pulled the valve cover and rockers are moving.

I will check rotor now to see if it is consistent.

Pulled #1 plug and cranked. Seems very week spark at plug but maybe bad ground. just holding against rad hose support

 

Thank you for the advice.

 

will try start fluid w/ just half pedal

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If weak spark is the issue starting fluid will not help. If it does, it isn't a spark issue. The distributor may have gone tips up. Definitely check all grounds. Is the check engine light on? If so pull the codes...

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Broken down in Ohio! If that isn't a cry for help, I don't know what is...

 

DID the CEL come on? Have you checked for codes with an OBD2 reader?

How many miles on it? Does the rotor turn when you crank the motor?

 

So far I agree with Kingman, the dizzy could be the issue, but not enough info yet so I wouldn't buy one just to find out yet.

I'll make a point to watch this thread...

 

B

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The distributor was replaced not long ago. Looks pretty new.

The service engine light has been on since I got it. I just put a clutch in it.

Don't have a code reader

I have limited internet and almost zero cell service so research is slow.

 

What grounds should I check?

I mentioned ground because when I saw weak spark at plug I figure could be I'm not grounding plug well.

rotor seems to be turning fine.

will not start on start fluid

 

was thinking of bringing #1 to TDC with a stick in the plug hole to tell, then seeing if valves are closed? I'm grasping though, I think there is too much variation for that to show anything.

 

Getting desperate.

 

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Yes. Rotate the engine to TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing at the NO.1 point on the cap. Unfortunately parts house distributors have a high failure rate...

 

Also. Clutch? Was there a crank sensor on top of the bell housing that may have gotten messed up, pinched the wire, etc?

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tore the CPS off (when pulling clutch) didn't see it. I replaced it and had to buy a new plug w/ pigtail and splice on. I could not find bolt to bolt it down but it stayed tight.

That was 500 miles ago. Just had someone scan and they said CPS is bad. I pulled and checked continuity of splice, all good. Ohmed out at 166

I ordered new one and will pick up tomorrow and see if ohm is same. Hopefully it comes with bolt but I doubt it. Guess I should find a bolt? I did hold it solid while someone cranked, no change.

Edited by 7river
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So, P0335 was the code? Crankshaft Position Sensor? (CKPS)

166-203 Ohms is the resistance, but maybe you have a wiring issue. There is too much info to type, but if you can, go to the Garage section, into the Factory Service Manual thread and follow the first link. Go to 1998 (just trust me on this) and only download the EC section. Page 264 is what you want to look at to check the harness, engine ground, etc.

I'll check in the morning to see if you got that, and maybe I can post screen captures if not.

 

Go by the fault codes first, if the ECU isn't happy with input, that is probably the issue.

See if you can trace the wires visually, maybe something got pinched or melted. Happened to me once with new headers and put the vehicle into limp mode. Found the melted section, spliced and good as new...

 

B

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Thank you so much Precise1 !

I'm not sure what the code # was. Someone else did it.

where is ECM located?

I'm checking the wires. Seems the wire diagram on EC-279 does not tell you where these plugs are located. Any idea?

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Yes, disconnect the battery before unplugging the ECU. Step on the brakes a few times with the jgnition on to drain any residual current...

 

You are welcome, I hope that helps you find the issue and it is an easy fix.

I'm going to be gone most of the day, but I'll check back this afternoon.

Good luck Bud!

 

B

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I'm wondering if anyone can help guild me through getting this thing fixed.

 

I am in about the worst pickle somebody could be in.

My wife wants a divorce. We have four kids.

I was on my way to catskill mtns NY where we just moved from to regroup, grieve, make some cash and this happened!

So I am broken hearted, broke, and broke down...and at my father n laws!

I have tomorrow to get er fixed or abandon it and take bus back to middle of nowhere and watch my wife date.

I am desperate to get this running!

Any chance you can help brainstorm this?

you can message me for my contact info

Very poor reception here.

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Sounds like some are pointing you int the right direction already. If you are concerned about grounding the spark plug during a test, go you your local parts store and purchase a in-line spark tester. They are fairly cheap and you will know if you have spark or not.

 

You are going to need a bolt in that crank position sensor. Once you have a new sensor and bolt, reconnect everything, clear codes and try and start. If it doesn't start, you need to check codes again.

 

Have you pulled spark plugs and see if they are wet? They may be wet if you've sprayed too much starting fluid in. Pull them all if they are wet and let them dry, or replace them(what brand are they?).

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I don't know brand. I will pull one.

I can smell fuel.

Would the plugs make it stop like that?

 

Do I need to clear codes for it to start? I dont have scanner.

 

Can anyone explain or point to how to replace distributor?

 

Seems hard to get to bolts.

May replace it tomorrow. Can't figure how to qualify it.

 

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If the spark plugs are that wet, they won't fire. It's called being fuel soaked. Cheap plugs will do that. NGK plugs are your best bet.

 

You don't need to clear codes to start, but if you have a issue, you don't wanna chase the wrong thing.

 

Replacing the distributor is as simple as setting the engine to TDC, remove the cap and make sure the rotor is pointing just before #1 on the cap. Disconnect the connector and pull the one bolt holding it in. It helps to make a mark with a high visibility where the rotor points so you can transfer it to the new distributor. After its unbolted, wiggle it straight up. Installation is the exact opposite.

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Thanks!

I first thought the two bolts holding that u bracket at base had to come out. They would be a bitch.

 

Will get dist tomorrow.

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