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Horsepower increase question(s)


unit6usa
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So i left Denver from some backpacking and got back to Lubbock. On the way up (to Denver) and back I experienced little or no acceleration on uphill climbs on the highway. I know this engine is tough and can take quite a bit of HP increase. I've read some other posts on here but nothing really tells me what I'm looking for. I have good low end torque and power but it seems to be mid-high range that's lacking. I ran across a website that tells me some dreamy things like 600+ hp on stock vg30e the stock bottom end, crank, heads, etc. Here it is I'm sure you've seen it http://grannys.tripod.com/2N6VG30.html

Why do I feel like I don't know what I'm doing when I read this? I am aware of some things I could do to increase HP but I'm interested to see what you'll answer in response to this website.

Edited by RedPath88
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Maybe it's just me, but I didn't see anything on that website about how to increase power in a VG. To the OP, I recommend searching the 3.3 swap or if you like some good reading, try this....

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28728-project-pathfinder/

 

 

A member here bought this rig not to long ago and is active, I just can't remember what the screen name is at the moment.

 

Loss of power can be from many things. You may want to state the year of your rig, how many miles you have, what mods have been done and what kind of maintenance has been performed. Several members have woke their rigs up with a simple tune up and decarboning. From there you need to help it breath(intake and exhaust). Maybe I went a bit far with what you were asking for, but hopefully I gave some useful information!

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They're trying to sell kits to mount the engines into other things, so of course they want to show the absolute best you can get out of the motor. They're going to talk about the highly modded race engines putting out 600hp rather than the 153hp plant that we're working with. Gaining power is possible, of course, just a matter of time and money.

The best HP gain I've seen on mine was from pulling out the throttle body and cleaning it. :lol:

 

One thing that caught my eye, that site says you could bore a VG30 out to 3.3 with the same cylinder wall thickness of a VG33. I remember reading (not sure where of course but the author seemed to know what he was talking about) that the water jacketing was changed between the two motors to allow for the wider bore, and there wasn't much room to safely bore a 3.0. Anyone have light to shed on this?

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To get this "some dreamy things like 600+ hp" say goodbye to this "I have good low end torque and power"

 

I'm putting over 170/190 HP/TQ to the wheels which is more than the stock motor has at the crank and its all very derivable bottom to top.

My advise to you for a "quick" wake up

good tune up
flush the injectors
Headers; any kind will do for street level performance but I'm partial to Thorley and Experimental Engineering
Full 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust: 3.0's loose some scavenging (bottom end with 2.5 but its not that bad)

Cams1: Euro Spec cams (oe for uk) used to be $100 a stick. Email Rob Lacey for current availability and pricing. Good Idle same bottom end but more mid-range

Cams: JWT S1 Pricey but GOOD mid and top end. 3.3's love these cams but 3.0's loose a little bottom end...

Do all the above to a 3.3 and you will be keeping up with supercharged xterra's but all of this has already been covered in great depth if you just look for it.

Edited by MY1PATH
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I'm not sure what I need to do with this

Nothing beyond \/

 

Just hit the blue link in the original post....

If you look at the first post you will see that I edited it and fixed the link so that it now works as intended. The only reason I posted about it was to let people know that it had been corrected, and to try and stem the ongoing conversation about the links problem ;)

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To get this "some dreamy things like 600+ hp" say goodbye to this "I have good low end torque and power"

 

I'm putting over 170/190 HP/TQ to the wheels which is more than the stock motor has at the crank and its all very derivable bottom to top.

 

My advise to you for a "quick" wake up

 

good tune up

flush the injectors

Headers; any kind will do for street level performance but I'm partial to Thorley and Experimental Engineering

Full 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust: 3.0's loose some scavenging (bottom end with 2.5 but its not that bad)

Cams1: Euro Spec cams (oe for uk) used to be $100 a stick. Email Rob Lacey for current availability and pricing. Good Idle same bottom end but more mid-range

Cams: JWT S1 Pricey but GOOD mid and top end. 3.3's love these cams but 3.0's loose a little bottom end...

 

Do all the above to a 3.3 and you will be keeping up with supercharged xterra's but all of this has already been covered in great depth if you just look for it.

 

This seems like the easier way to pump up the motor, except the fact my header bolts broke off into the head..but none the less, definitely going to perform the suggested tune up. You have a 3.0 in yours or 3.3?

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This seems like the easier way to pump up the motor, except the fact my header bolts broke off into the head..but none the less, definitely going to perform the suggested tune up. You have a 3.0 in yours or 3.3?

Its in my sig... If your header bolts are broke of then you are losing power through your exhaust leaks. Pull the manifolds, extract the broken studs, Buy some 300zx turbo studs and install headers.

===1989 MT Pathfinder-XE V6 260k=== (VG34ER on the way...)

TBI to MPFI using Infiniti M30 electronics.

200hp VG33 w/ 10:1 compression ratio, european z31 cams, Minor port and valve work.

hidden snorkel, Thorley Headers & 2.25" custom exhaust

31x10.5 Nokian Vatiiva MT's on Black 15x8 AR Baja

Rough Country 3" XJ Coils, Calmini UCA's & Rancho 9000's, HB Manual Locking hubs & 4 wheel Disc Swap

Maxima 90 amp atly -FAL180 Black Magic Extreme Fan

=1979 Yamaha XT 500 vm36 carb +45MPG

=1993 MT Pathfinder-XE V6 (stock)

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Reading MY1PATH's post it dawned on me that I have at least two exhaust leaks that I wasn't thinking about being a performance issue. My plan is to get headers and new exhaust piping all around just needed the car to get me to Colorado and back this last week. Sorry about not posting specs earlier. It's a 93 SE with 250K miles. I did a cheap tune up before I left and fluid changes. I also replaced all bushings, tie rods, ball joints, alignment, etc on front end before I left for CO. I may try and do some other suggestions mentioned because I know the inside of the engine has to be pretty gunky. As far as the transmission goes (I'm not a transmission guy) shifting into third at above 3000 RPM causes it to grind slightly and shifting down into second you have to wait for the gears to sync a second before you can put it in gear otherwise it grinds. Also, fifth gear doesn't seem like much of a change from fourth as far as RPM drop. Even though all this is going on I still get 20-22 MPG highway which is funny to me! Last note: I have read that project pathfinder forum before that 5523Pathfinder mentioned earlier and it is very good thanks for that!

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Good info here. I cannot agree more with what MY1PATH has posted. Especially the exhaust leak items. Bout to replace my broken (again) manifolds with some headers to fix the same issue...

20-22 mpg? Holy cow.

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Its possible,FLAT roads no stops and constant 50-65 mph speeds (no faster) will make any pathfinder look much better on the gas bill. But don't let tire size and having the wrong speedo gear fool you. Bump your mileage (not speed) against a GPS on long drives.

I made the same 1,000 mile road trip twice last month with the wife's stock pathy. Weather and gas stations were the same both times. The difference between 78 mph most the way and 70 mph most the way was on average 1.5 MPG (But our best tank was only 19.8 MPG...)

Edited by MY1PATH
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My loss of power like yours and was the key on the crank timing belt pulley. I let it go on and adjusted the timing but then the key sheared into at a red light , I got lucky and no bent valves. Jim

Edited by Jimmie
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Agreeing with MY1PATH, FLAT here in west Texas is nice on the gas bill! I'm averaging at 70 mph HWY (prob) per tank. But I still love it :) Tho Jimmie's post scares me a little because the more I have read on this site the more I think my next immediate repair needs to be the timing belts and such because afaik it has never been replaced. Funny tho in the FSM there is no mention (quick look) of the woodruff keys for the timing belt pulleys nor the cam pulley though I know they have to be there. My question is why would a worn key cause the lack of performance that I originally posted about?

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Because it timing key begins to shear... or shear completely... it will allow the timing pulley to shift with a change in the timing.

 

Or you could have them shear and the crankshaft keyways round out like this.

 

crankshaftdamage.jpg

 

Oh and the #1 recommendation to all new members, or those who just bought [another] VG3x Pathy is to change the timing belt unless you have rock solid documentation that it was recently done!

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