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Manufacturer Part Number: MECM-V260 A1

Emissions: Federal

Transmission: Automatic

Drivetrain: 4x4

Engine Type: 3.0L

 

 

From an eBay posting for a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder ECU

 

 

 

(unrelated) RedPath88: what are you doing up at 2:13am??

Edited by SpecialWarr
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Guys. While on the same topic.

 

I'm in the process of swapping my VG30E into a VG33E. Should I be worried about the ECU? Should I swap it as well into a compatible year model with the new engine?

 

 

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No. The other way around :). I'm putting a VG33E into my 1992 WD21. My existing ECU is the MECM-V981. I'm just asking if I need to replace it with a VG33E-compatible ECU or whether my old one will work just fine?

 

I'm also in the market (ebay) for a backup ECU. there are so many on eBay and was wondering if all WD21 ECU are compatible or I need to look for that exact model (MECM-V981) to buy as a backup to my existing ECU?

 

William

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I believe you'll need the one from the VG33 donor since there are more O2 sensors for that motor than than the 3.0 ( other stuff as well?)..... as far as the ecu unit itself: ssssomeone who's done the swap mentioned in a thread that the ecu from the auto will work with the manual trans but not the reverse. I don't know if the same holds true for the 3.3 series motors but i would think so.

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Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle.
Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle.


Guys. While on the same topic.

I'm in the process of swapping my VG30E into a VG33E. Should I be worried about the ECU? Should I swap it as well into a compatible year model with the new engine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle.
Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle.


An ECU does not care if it is a 3.0 or a 3.3 or even a VG3x It only matters that the correct electrical components (which you already have) are connected to it.

 

I believe you'll need the one from the VG33 donor since there are more O2 sensors for that motor than than the 3.0 ( other stuff as well?)..... as far as the ecu unit itself: ssssomeone who's done the swap mentioned in a thread that the ecu from the auto will work with the manual trans but not the reverse. I don't know if the same holds true for the 3.3 series motors but i would think so.

STOP STOP STOP!!! If you don't know don't say it. Something like this someone will read the wrong post and buy parts they don't need.

 

An engine only needs Air, Fuel and Spark to the right cylinders at the right time.

For the most part It does not matter what ecu delivers it as long as that ECU has all the correct parts to match that ECU.
If you go trying to swap to a 3.3 ECU you are opening a large and unnecessary can of worms for ZERO performance gains.

An MT ECU will not work with an Auto Transmission is because the AT ECU computer sends throttle position information to the Transmission Shift Computer to tell it when to shift. The transmission won't care if its a 3.0 or 3.3 either.

Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle.
Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle.

Edited by MY1PATH
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Thank you as always for the clarification . Well noted dude

 

As to my other question. If I'm in the market on eBay for a BACKUP ECU to keep aside for future use or to re-program it once I swap the engines, and upgrade the CAMS ...

 

Will any WD21 ECU work for my car as long as the donor is from a WD21 with A/T transmission?

 

William

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You can try to find the same year ECU just to be on the safe side. I don't recall the change over point but there was a difference of 02 sensors over the years. One being Titania (small thread) and the other being Zirconium (large thread), they output different signals and there is potential for damage if they are mixed up.
There may have been other small changes like tach signal outputs (ECU based vs coil based) and so on...

 

Also, If you have a Federal Emissions ECU installing a CA ECU will get you an EGR code on your first drive if you do not have an EGR temp sensor installed. However CA Model vehicles run just fine on Federal ECU's

 

 

o2_wiring.png

Edited by MY1PATH
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Perfect

 

I found the exact same ECU model on eBay. It matches the model of my ECU except for the last 4 suffixed alphanumerics as follows:

 

Mine is: MECM-V981 (1) 1X17

Ebay: MECM-V981 (1) 1Y29

 

It comes from a 93 WD21 A/T 4x2. Whereas, mine is a 4x4, does it make a difference?

 

Note: they both have a big orange "45" sticker on top. Is there a website that explains what all these numbers mean?

 

f264c60562c2e5661bd99f4d033ed303.jpg

 

William

 

 

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The ECM numbers here are interesting because a number of years ago when I had to replace mine we had this discussion, although it may also have taken place on the defunct WD21Forums as well because I posted the images seen below of an ECU print out that I got from the Nissan parts counter in Olympia, WA, but cannot seem to find them here now.

 

Anyway, the V number on the ECU above does not appear on this print out at all. At first I though it was just due to 95's not appearing on the list, but if this was actually and originally from a 93, it says that there were more than this print out showed. Maybe Alkorahil can dig this info up and see if there was more than I was given, of it it's been updated since then.

 

ecuvg30i.png

ecuvg30e.png

Edited by RedPath88
added Alkorahil's name & re-hosted ECM images on NPOPA
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Interesting!

 

So in case you did not find the rest of this chart, do you think it is safe to swap:

 

MECM-V981 (1) 1X17

 

for

 

MECM-V981 (1) 1Y29

It comes from a 93 WD21 A/T 4x2. Whereas, mine is a 4x4, does it make a difference?

 

William

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I can't remember now but the parts guy that I worked with and I spent a long time going over info he had on the ECM's and we came to the conclusion that "to be safe" there was a key section of the identification number that had to match and iirc it was in addition to the MECM-vxxx number, though I want to say that the MECH number was just a year by year progression and may not be as critical as long as the key points mentioned below match. That info was posted along with these images, which was why I was trying to find the post and thread that I had the images in originally. But that portion of the discussion may very well have happened on the WD21Forums, which were basically a younger sister forum to NPORA, but has been gone for years now.

 

Using that info I found a matching one in a wrecking yard, installed it and the truck fired right up and ran (without the miss) correctly for the first time in years.

 

Based on the charts above there is no difference between 2WD and 4WD and I honestly would not expected there to be one. Four key points are Engine (VG, Z, KA), Intake (i = TBI, e= MPFI) Transmission (MT, AT) and Emissions Specs (FED and CAL for the US)

 

But again and aside from the above, differences in years could play into it, thus the reasons why we identified the "safe route"

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And just to be clear!

Use the ECU, that is in your current vehicle.
Also, use the sensors, injectors Throttle body etc that are in your current vehicle.

 

^This is ABSOLUTELY Correct!^

Even though I mentioned engine type, that was so that you get one from a matching truck. I am in no way saying or implying that different generations VG equipped ECM's will work, they won't. :nono:

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Interesting!

 

So in case you did not find the rest of this chart, do you think it is safe to swap:

 

MECM-V981 (1) 1X17

 

for

 

MECM-V981 (1) 1Y29

 

It comes from a 93 WD21 A/T 4x2. Whereas, mine is a 4x4, does it make a difference?

 

William

 

4x4 or 2wd it does not matter.

The last 4 are like a serial number you won't find any two that match the last 4

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Thank you so much as always guys (esp. MY1PATH) for the support.

 

So in conclusion. It seems like a safe purchase to serve as a backup ECU in case my OEM ECU got fried or needed replacement for any reason. Right?

 

William

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Thank you so much as always guys (esp. MY1PATH) for the support.

 

So in conclusion. It seems like a safe purchase to serve as a backup ECU in case my OEM ECU got fried or needed replacement for any reason. Right?

 

William

yep, I'd even swap in the one you buy to make sure it's good runs and keep your known good one clean and dry for a spare.

I ended up turning my spare into a NIStune ECU. I just wish I had more time to play with it... This was not needed by any means for my lightly modified 3.3 but its a toy and I will be needing in the future...

 

 

Edited by MY1PATH
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