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WV_R50

Automatic vs. Manual

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As you look around at our gen pathys for sale and on web pages you realize that there are not very many manual transmissions available. While I have come to realize that the automatic transmission is basically bulletproof in these things, I still wonder how great a 5 speed would be.

 

I myself prefer one as I feel I can achieve better fuel economy while highway driving, and IMO a manual transmission tends to last much longer (besides of course additional costs for clutch replacements). I've read that at least for the 03-04 pathys the manual trans actually has 250 HP compared to 240 in AT trans.

 

My questions in all of this are directed towards those that own a 3.5 pathy with a manual trans, how is it? Do you feel you achieve better MPG than an AT? (We get like 18-20) Is it as reliable as one might imagine?

 

Also I'm curious if anyone has ever consider/pulled off an AT to manual swap in an r50 preferably information on 01+ 3.5L

Thanks WV_R50

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I just bought a 2002 SE with manual, 140k. I've owned a dozen stick shift cars and this is the smoothest best-synchronized transmission I've ever used, in my own cars or others', a joy to drive. I get 20 mpg. It is a tragedy that they stopped equipping the PF with this elegant shifter. The 4wd hi/lo is also outstanding, engages easily and positively, though I'm not sure the LSD helps much. Mine may be tired out.

 

 

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Okay just as I imagine it being! Thanks for the info gold. I've been on the lookout for an 02 with the 5 speed. There is a pretty good deal on a PF in southern Indiana its an 02 5 speed no rust with 95k on it. Probly get it down from 4500 to 4 even if anyone is interested.

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From what I can tell the only years a standard shift was not available was from 03-04. I believe they restarted production on the restyled 05 models. It would appear that from 01-02 as little as 5 out every 1000 PF produced were manual (No clue what real numbers were, just guessing here). But its extremely low numbers of manual trans.

Again... any info on swapping a manual trans into a 01-02 PF is great and possibly a manual trans from 01 02 going into an 03 or 04 would be amazing. I'd only wished I looked into this back when I destroyed my first pathfinders trans and had to replace. (Not the pathys fault..)

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I loved my manual, in snow, mud is a bit iffy. plus with larger tires, not much in the way of sluggishness. in traffic, not so nice

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In 1997 I had to wait for my SE manual to come from japan. Still have it....but honestly I don't track mileage etc so might not be much help to you.

 

My first clutch went earlier than I expected....I think it was like 2004 or so...and the replacement one has been "barking" for about 6 years but still performs like a champ! But just so i don't get stranded some day...will probably do the clutch and new flywheel in next 12 months or so. Just did timing belt and knock sensor.

 

In our minivan...I am good with an AT...but in my PAthy...I like having the stick. I gotta believe it gives me a bit more power too over an AT. 18 years this August and I love it as much as the day I took it home.

 

Oh....I should add as someone mentioned above....the rear LSD is a total joke....at least mine is. Even with BFG All Terrains I can get both wheels spinning...in the rain! My guess is the Pathy needed more weight in the rear.

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Pinion what model was your path?

 

From my Note II

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98 doesn't say, LE?

SAM_0439_zps7lasayfr.jpg

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Very nice one of the best looking pathys ive seen in that 96-99 bunch. & yeah I meant model year sorry.

 

From my Note II

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Piste I'm more interested in the 3.5L motor and trans setup. But all useful information is welcome. Even if I don't have much use I'm sure its just what someone was looking for. Anybody else have an 01-02 manual? What's your opinion on them? Let us know

 

From my Note II

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Well I got myself a 5 speed! Its an 01 SE has near 190k on the clock. Truck is in somewhat rough condition, it was pretty dirty inside.. Floors/carpets were rather clean however the stereo, shift lever boot, dash, and console not so much. I've already taken my LE 17" wheels and tires off of the 03 and put em on the 01(old ones had wires hanging out) they look great and it got rid of the wobble at higher speeds and the pull to the right. All she needs now is either a new belt or just a tighten to the old one if possible, a door pin, couple rocker panels, a dent pulled, and probly both transmission mounts. And of course I'm gonna try and transfer all the nice stuff from the 03 into it. (leather seats, maybe some of that fake wood paneling lol, floor mats, my double din pioneer, whatever will fit) Really pleased with it, and you wouldn't believe the price. I picked it up yesterday at auction for $450!! Only $546 after auction fees. Already feel like I'm saving on fuel! Might be wrong but I feel as though I am haha. At least I can toss it in neutral down a hill and not worry bout burning up my trans. Very pleased.

 

From my Note II

Edited by WV_R50

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64ab213cfa7ea5b5102e94dbc8d19883.jpg

 

From my Note II

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FYI, most vehicles run a different ECU and Tune for AT and MT. On some models some wires need to be spiced or bridged for the vehicle to run.

Dealing with this first hand. (AT ECU in my MT) almost no effort was given in tuning the car below 2,000 RPM.
Why? Well an AT can't use any of its power below the the Torque Converter stall point so it gets tuned for "clean air"
How bad does this hurt your low RPM driving? Hard to say, every model is different.

This shouldn't be a road block but its something to think about.

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The reason for the higher HP figure is that the MT 3.5 don't have power valves. It's just open. Also if you look you'll notice the TQ figure is lower on the MT ones.

Does it matter? No they are probably 99.9% the same. Honestly these 3.5 are probably the same 265HP that came in the early 350Z cars. Minus some tuning.

Either way it's a good engine. As far as transferring interior parts. Go for it.

 

Sent from fat fingers on S6

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Oh yeah I have scrapped the idea of doing the complete trans/motor swap into the 03. I'm decent with a wrench but not like that. I just really enjoy a 5speed. Once I figure out if this thing really will last me another 50-75k miles I'll be selling the 03 off as I really just plan to turn it into an offroading animal. Any ideas on how difficult it may be to swap power seats/motors all that into an SE with no such amenities? And does anybody know where to find a couple rocker panels for the r50? Mine are basically halfway rotted off and I'm sure any junkyard r50 (if even available) would be in the same rotted condition.

 

From my Note II

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Mine is an automatic but honestly If I had to buy a new one, I would prefer to buy a manual tranny because of the fuel economy and the power that it offers.

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Well at 75mph in 5th gear on the interstate it is still running close to 4k RPM. I expected that to be lower. And mine has a coil down so I'm only running 5 cylinders and not getting that full 250hp. If your near central WV I've got the 01 manual up for sale. Gonna keep that 03 with the bulletproof auto trans I've decided.

 

From my Note II

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Well at 75mph in 5th gear on the interstate it is still running close to 4k RPM. I expected that to be lower. And mine has a coil down so I'm only running 5 cylinders and not getting that full 250hp. If your near central WV I've got the 01 manual up for sale. Gonna keep that 03 with the bulletproof auto trans I've decided.

 

From my Note II

Driving without spark on one cyl? Did you unplug that injector too?

You are going to wash your CYL walls with fuel, potentially wear out your Ring to Bore seal and loose compression. It can be done short term (like to get home) but I would not daily drive it like that. Also change your oil once you get it fixed to get all the fuel out of the oil.

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Yeah once I realized that it was down a cylinder I quit driving it. Thanks though I didn't realize all the possible repercussions. I just wanted to avoid further issues!

 

From my Note II

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Yeah I personally went down that road myself. Only it wasn't spark, it was an injector that would't close(much worse than your situation). 50 miles I had to drive like that before it was parked.
It flooded the oil pan with fuel. Even though it was drained and flushed thoroughly the damage was already done... the engine chewed through its bearings and was done a year later.





https://youtu.be/Dr5LOc7XCWc Edited by MY1PATH

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I love the manual. My previous Pathy is a 95 that I bought in 99 and just semi retired it last month when I bought the 02. Both are manual and I was so determined to buy another with a manual that I flew to Washington state to buy it and drove it back to Nevada. I feel you are more in touch with your vehicle because of the stick and the two of you having to work as a team. And driving the two are night and day, but I know the manual has other perks, like few people know how to drive them these days, so less likely to be stolen. :laugh:

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I have a 96 SE with a manual. If you swap a manual into your ride there are a few things to consider. I saw one person mention some ecu differences to get around that i would probably ninja the ecu out of the manual truck u pull your trans from if you get it at a yard. (just an idea) not sure if the trans sensors are the same or in the same location. but what i do know is the spacer between the block and the trans is different so you will need to take the spacer and the flywheel off of the rig u pull the trans from. You may want to grab the radiator too because an auto has provisions for trans cooler lines. "probably just plug them up in your radiator" also the lengths of the trans itself may be a bit different requiring the drive shaft out of the manual trans vehicle.

mine has 4.63 gears and is 3100rpm at 70mph when everthing is doing well i get about 21 hwy and 13 to 15 city depending on traffic. was getting 19 before i put on manual locking hubs and did a bit of work to the exhaust , intake and heads.

 

 

Pat

 

P.S. that beast is heavy a F*** with the tfer case on it. plus @ least on my model nissan was nice enough to rtv the spacer plate to the block and the bell housing, after all the bolt were out i had to do the new jack swing on the back of it for about an hour to get it to let go. "be sure you pull your crank sensor before the trans, dont ask me how i know"

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almost forgot, need the pilot bearing for the xmission input shaft to mate to the motor. hmm i am sure i am forgetting something but that is all the info i have.

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P.S. that beast is heavy a F*** with the tfer case on it.

I can vouch for this statement. Don't buy the $99 scissor style trans jack from harbor freight. My knee got to see exactly how heavy the trans/tc assembly is when it slid off that thing at about 12" off the ground. OUCH! Renting a huge tractor trans jack is the way to go.. cost me $27.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I ended buying the bigger trans jack from harbor freight and I was glad I did.

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