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My new 2001 LE 4x4


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Wow, beautiful picture! That sure looks like a lot of fun. I just noticed that we have the same roof rack, but mine is mounted a lot higher than yours. What did you do to mount it nice and low like that? As mine is now I can't fit in the garage by about an inch, so if I can get it dropped down that would be great. (Not that I mind driving through 12 inches of snow every day to park behind the garage. :) )

Edited by mjotrainbrain
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Wow, beautiful picture! That sure looks like a lot of fun. I just noticed that we have the same roof rack, but mine is mounted a lot higher than yours. What did you do to mount it nice and low like that? As mine is now I can't fit in the garage by about an inch, so if I can get it dropped down that would be great. (Not that I mind driving through 12 inches of snow every day to park behind the garage. :) )

I mounted the rack directly to the roof rails. This drops it down significantly. My truck wouldn't fit in the garage either if it was mounted to the factory cross bars
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  • 2 weeks later...

the Bilsteins should be ok, they are longer than stock to accommodate the lift. Hoping to get it together in the next 2 weeks or so. Eager to hit some trails and test run a trip with the trailer. We're headed to Washington in August so it has to be road ready w a few trips under the belt.

New guy here and first question! What Bilstein shocks did you order (part number if you have it) and how much longer are they? I'm looking to do 2 inch coil spacers all around. I wanted to upgrade my coil springs and shocks in the back first then the struts up front. Thanks for the help.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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New guy here and first question! What Bilstein shocks did you order (part number if you have it) and how much longer are they? I'm looking to do 2 inch coil spacers all around. I wanted to upgrade my coil springs and shocks in the back first then the struts up front. Thanks for the help.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

The Bilsteins are the 5100 series. Dont remember the part number but if you search this forum they'll come up. I believe they are for a late model Ford F150 and should be fine for a 2" lift.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Took another snow wheeling trip with my new 4x4 group, mostly comprised of Suzukis, to Jacks Pass. Snow was deep. Really deep. The major downfall of the SFD became apparent after the snow got to be about 4 ft deep. The damn thing is a drag. Literally. While a SFD allows you to effectively raise your truck and fit larger tires but the subframe still is extremely low ultimately making any kind of ground clearance gained for the body and tire size fit useless in deep snow or mud. I basically plowed my way through thanks to the major balls the 3.5 has but after it got too deep there was no going further. Even the Suzukis were having trouble. While they were able to float most of the day the snow quickly changed characteristics when the temps got above 40 and everyone was getting stuck. We were about 3 miles from the pass summit but glad we backed out when we did. Nothing but slush from all the sun as we rose in elevation,

 

So now the question is...what axle will I use for my SAS because this IFS sucks when it comes to clearance. Dont get me wrong, my truck has gotten me tons of places that I never thought it would. But I have to adapt and accept that what I really want to do will require a SAS for this area. More on the list to do.

 

Sunrise on the Cascade mountains as we approached Monroe

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Airing down

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Getting deeper. Subframe plow begins

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Getting deeper...

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Too deep.

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A couple good yanks forward and back got the job done. Was down to the body, tires spinning freely. Those little Samurai's are tough bastards.

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Lunch and dog break

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sunset in the snow

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Apparently D44s out of jeep wagoneers and early Broncos maybe are a good fit. The trick is all the custom work to the front end to make it work. Dunno if anyone has ever tried this but I've been wondering if it would be possible to cut the engine bay section of frame out of a WD21 and weld it into an R50. That would probably simplify the process I'm thinking, as WD21 sas's are something that's been done a fair amount... I just SFD'd mine and I'm already planning an SAS lol... you can also buy geberic hardware kits for 3 and 4 link setups too fyi.

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Man, that looks like a fun day!

 

So, about the SAS...I think this is one scenario where IFS is actually better, mainly because the axle and diff can be well above the centerline of the tires (with the right amount of lift). Maybe what you really need is a miniature plow on your skid that pushes snow into your tracks for better flotation. :D

 

I also couldn't help but notice how flat your LCAs are, though...almost even looks like your crossmember is lower than the LCAs in some pics. I thought you had a little more lift than SFD height?

 

@Snowboarder12345: interesting thought about the WD21 grafting since there are SAS kits now. But surely too much work when you think about what's required just to get a donor frame, and then still have to SAS that. In my opinion, I think the R50 chassis is already prime for 4- or 5-link SAS. Remove a few bolts and disconnect some hoses, and it's like a clean slate. Then, a custom subframe to add motor mount perches, steering box mount, panhard drop, etc. That's how I'd approach it, anyway.

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My brother has a pretty much completely stripped down parts WD21 sitting around that he doesn't give 2 @!*%s about, so that part is no problem for me. You are probably right though hawairish, probably not worth the effort unless you wanted to run leafs instead of coilovers.

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I also couldn't help but notice how flat your LCAs are, though...almost even looks like your crossmember is lower than the LCAs in some pics. I thought you had a little more lift than SFD height?

 

No, just 4". Thinking about going to 6 just for a short time to see how many CV's I break before I rip it all out and stuff an axle under there.

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  • 1 month later...

Decided to make an air manifold and hose setup finally. Airing down and back up is one of the less enjoyable tasks when out wheeling and I wanted to speed things up. With this I can attach all 4 corners simultaneously and make it all much faster plus it equalizes the pressure among the 4. Sure, its a bit more hose to bring but the benefit is worth a little more bulk.

 

IMG_20170224_224707_498_zpsvfdhktg1.jpg

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You should plumb the system so you have quick disconnect fittings in/near each of the wheel wells so you just hook up 4 ~36" whips. That would eliminate some of the hose you must carry, then you just stuff the short lengths of hose under the sear or some where. That's how I've built mine.

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I'm a wd21 and my compressor and air tank is underneath the body tucked up mounted to the frame. I have 3/8" nylon airline underneath the cab to my quick disconnects. You would have to run a line through a grommet out of the cab and split underneath.

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Ahh, thats right. I like your rig by the way. I almost bought an 86 2door a few years back. Really like that bodystyle.

 

I didnt want to have the compressor mounted externally because they salt roads here. Ive had to keep pressure washing my truck to keep the corrosion at bay. Heading towards coating everything underneath now...

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Found a R50 equipped with a tire carrier in a yard on my way home and made a template to help with installation of the unit Ive been holding to since last year. Also grabbed this particular carrier, license plate frame and dashboard light switch if someone local is interested. Didnt have the latch plate though. Someone else got it before I got there.

 

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Edited by TowndawgR50
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Newbie member here, just picked up a 2001 Le 4x4 for my wife at the Speed's auto auction in Portland, Oregon THIS FEB. 2360 USD with fees, 211000 miles on the clock. So far 4 new tires, 6 Iridium NGK Plugs, LOF with 10w40 Mobil1 High Mileage synthetic , Wix filter from O'Reily parts store, new fuel filter, New Air cleaner, new belts{internet} Drained and changed front and rear differentials[ Rear is LSD}. Vehicle had near new front pads, and rear shoes with new hardware when purchased. Needed a master cylinder, Previous owner put something other than dot 3 in ther and the pedal was mushy to say the least. Went with a rebuilt from O'Reily, used A RESERVIOUR FROM A USED UNIT PURCHASED IN Albany. a GALLON OF Prestone Synthetic Dot 3, flushed out and bled all 4 wheels. A pleasant 3 hours in the garage bonding with the bleeder screws, clear tubing, and a qt mason jar. Figured out the Proportioning valve above the rear axel, and the rear axel went real good. The tire shop quoted 1500.00 to renew all components, gonna drive her now, don't think the foreign fluid went past the first hardline junction which I drained prior to blleding the system. As for the spark plugs, got to practice patience and the ability to bend my fingers into hitherto unknown configurations. I honestly think this was the 3rd set of plugs for this gal, one was not threaded all the way home. they were NGK Platinum, and thankfull all came out clean. . :/

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