4x4 parts rear swaybar disconnects

[NovaPath]

Does anyone have first hand experience with these? I'm not interested in totally removing the rear swaybar, but would like to have the option to have it disconnected for wheeling trips. They look like they are solid in the pictures, but I've heard conflicting things. My main concern is that you have to drill out the holes in the swaybar to make them fit, so if they are junk and you want to go back to stock you'd have to replace the rear sway afterwards...

 

Thanks!

[hawairish]

I don't have firsthand experience, but I wasn't impressed by them. The design (and at that price) solves more problems than it creates.

 

I wouldn't be terribly concerned about having to drill the sway bar if you plan to return to stock. The stock hole is 10mm, and you're increasing it a little under 3mm. There will be a little wiggle room, but adding a flat washer on the link side will help sandwich the sway bar end appropriately.

 

What I don't like about the link is that once you've disconnected it, there's nothing that stops the sway bar from rotating downward about 30-40° to the point where the upper hoop of the sway bar is resting on the 3rd member and the sway bar ends are sitting a few inches lower than the axle and snagging on rocks. There needs to be a way to anchor the end of the disconnect to the axle so it doesn't interfere with anything.

 

I also why I don't see the need for 4 disconnect points. Just more parts to take off. A lot of Jeep ones have brackets/straps so you can pin everything up, which I like. I wonder about noise, too....D-clips and metal-metal contact everywhere.

 

I've been eyeballing something like this:

http://midwestjeepwillys.com/j0031036-wrangler-jk-disconnect-rear-sway-bar-links-2-5-lift.html

 

They're adjustable length, the link stays attached to the sway bar, and it it's a one-hand, no-loose-parts disconnect. You'd need some sort of L bracket on the upper mount for the ball head bolt to attach to, and an extra set of ball head bolts and another custom bracket on the axle to attach to so that it stays out of the way. This is also $50 cheaper than the AC, which I think are just universal parts from Warrior Products.

 

This particular link style would work on the fronts as-is I think, but it depends on if the quick-release head rotates at all.

 

Otherwise, there are a few Rough Country ones that could work well, too, just need create a bracket for mounting them to the upper link perches. They're also much cheaper than others.

http://www.roughcountry.com/suspension-components/sway-bar-kits.html?limit=21

 

[NovaPath]

Thanks, those are good points. I found some on amazon made for a front end of a TJ that are adjustable and look like they utilize the same setup as the rear of our cars, I wonder if they would work? With regard to keeping the sway bar in check, couldn't you only remove one of the sides? That in theory would make it useless but still attached enough not to bang around....

[96Pathfinder4x4]

I took mine off when I did the lift. Trashed it.

[NovaPath]

I've read that many people have done that with no ill effects, but for my own reasons that is not something that I feel comfortable doing.

 

I sincerely appreciate the input, but every other thread that starts out like this one turns into a battle between those for and against sways, so for this conversation lets keep it solely to how to get some disconnects that work

[NovaPath]

These are the ones that I was referring to.

 

http://www.amazon.com/JKS-2000-Replacement-Swaybar-Disconnect/dp/B005TTZ64M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430960420&sr=8-5&keywords=swaybar+disconnects

[96Pathfinder4x4]

It's personal preference. I also put on wider tires....and see no use in the "missing link". I like the way offroad trucks handle.

[hawairish]

With regard to keeping the sway bar in check, couldn't you only remove one of the sides? That in theory would make it useless but still attached enough not to bang around....

 

I've come to that same conclusion. But, I've never seen disconnects sold just as one, so there must be something fundamental or cool about having a pair. I don't see any problem with just having one attached, except a possibility that under some flex, the sway bar hits the top of the 3rd member, or swings backwards and hits brake lines or LSV components. I don't have a LSV so the latter isn't applicable to me.

 

These are the ones that I was referring to.

 

http://www.amazon.com/JKS-2000-Replacement-Swaybar-Disconnect/dp/B005TTZ64M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430960420&sr=8-5&keywords=swaybar+disconnects

 

Yep, that would work on the rear. I've seen cheaper variants, but basically the studded could attach to the upper perch on the truck and disconnects at the sway bar.

 

But this is why I'd prefer the disconnect to stay connected to the sway bar end and detach from the upper perch:

This way you can pin the sway bar to a 3rd point somewhere on the axle.

[NovaPath]

hmm, I see your point. It seems like an L bracket made of 1/4" steel would be plenty strong for the rear sway bar, if you drill a hole in each end of the "L" you could in theory use any adjustable swaybar link of your choosing.

 

This seems to simple, am I missing anything?

[NovaPath]

So I just went out and looked at it again, and I don't think that would work. Our swaybar is attached to the rear axle as a fixed location instead of the chassis like that photo depicts. Therefore, it would actually make more sense to disconnect at the sway I think. Could you zip tie the swaybar to the rear lower control arm? My head isn't working right to figure out the physics of that at the momemnt...will think some more.

[Rebelord]

It's personal preference. I also put on wider tires....and see no use in the "missing link". I like the way offroad trucks handle.

The reason for the "missing link" is that it stiffens up the front subframe. Lessons the amount it twists and flexes. Which you don't want to happen in a subframe vehicle like ours. You want the suspension to do the work.

 

Sent from fat fingers on S6

 

Edit: As for disconnects. On the rear, it's hard to find a spot to secure the sway bar and links to keep them out of harms way.

Probably easier to remove the sway bar completely for a technical ride.

The front has options though.

Edited May 7, 2015 by Rebelord

[NovaPath]

It seems like there must be a good solution for this rear swaybar dillemma, although that hump over the pumpkin certainly isn't doing us any favors. I just don't want to have to deal with laying on the dirt/ground after a 2 hour drive to remove the dang thing for every off road trip. I'll look at it again some more this weekend and see what I can think up..

[hawairish]

So I just went out and looked at it again, and I don't think that would work. Our swaybar is attached to the rear axle as a fixed location instead of the chassis like that photo depicts. Therefore, it would actually make more sense to disconnect at the sway I think. Could you zip tie the swaybar to the rear lower control arm? My head isn't working right to figure out the physics of that at the momemnt...will think some more.

 

You have to pin it to whatever the sway bar is mounted to, otherwise you're not defeating the sway bar.

 

My plan was to fab a ~6" or so bracket and attach it at the bolt just below the spring (one of the bolts that secures the sway bar to the axle). That way I'd disconnect from the upper perch and attach to the bracket.

 

 

But while taking this pic, it might actually be a minor pain to conn/disconn. For sure, you'd have to be on the ground to do it, and would have to reach a point that's nearly an arm's length away. Perhaps another approach is in order...

 

I think the solution is some sort of limiting strap, like a nylon strap or rope with eyelets. They'd connect between the chassis/perch and sway bar end at the same or similar points as the disconnect link. When the link is in place, the strap has no effect. When removed, the straps will prevent the sway bar ends from dipping lower, but without inhibiting either end from traveling up when the truck is flexing (1 wheel up, 1 wheel down). When the truck is level, the bar will return to level.

 

This approach would need the link to be removed or pinned to something. The nice part about this approach is that the link (if it stayed connected to the sway bar) could just be strapped to the sway bar itself. The limiting straps wouldn't need to be nearly as robust as true limiting straps.

 

Not sure I've seen a setup like this, either. Some kits come with nylon strapping, but it's for pinning up the disconnected link.

Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish

[NovaPath]

what about looping something(say a bungee) around the center where it bends up around the pumpkin, and pulling that towards the rear of the car and looping it around the LSV bracket? That would point both of the swaybar ends up, the only question is if they would hit the wheel well during compression?

Edited May 7, 2015 by NovaPath

[hawairish]

I was thinking a pool noodle or pipe insulation and duct tape...pad up the hoop and let it rest on the differential. But, I'm convinced that a strap/cable would work just fine. I'll have to rig up a model of some sort to confirm.

 

BUT DUDE: DIY DISCONNECTS!

 

I Googled "ball joint quick disconnects" on a hunch. That first pic I posted (made by Steinjäger) appears to have been made entirely by parts from Midwest Control. They have an impression selection, detailed website, and do online orders. So, here's what I'm thinking...

 

2x QIL375 180° @ $12.66/ea for the upper rear perches:

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=128

 

2x QI375 90° @ $3.45/ea for rear sway bar

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=115

 

4x QI500 @ $3.76/ea for the fronts

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=116

 

The OE rear links have 10mm studs and fronts are 12mm. These rears would be 3/8-24 (9.5mm) and 1/2-20 (12.7mm). You'd barely need to enlarge the front sway bar eyelets a trivial amount. They have metric disconnects, too (see QM10 and QM12), but not for the 180° joint; metrics are also a little more expensive, but not by much.

 

They sell threaded linkages, but with an LH and RH thread. I didn't see any disconnects as LH thread, though. I sent them an email to see if they do RH/RH links, since their links look better than a simple threaded rod, and they do various lengths for a couple bucks each. They also sell the jam nuts.

 

We're looking at $50 in parts for front AND rear links!

 

Midwest also sells heim joints so you could make your own link exactly like the Steinjäger ones. Assuming the parts are the same, I think these will also have plenty of strength.

 

Since these can be removed/installed with one hand, I also did a simple test: I can touch the ends of each link on my truck by just reaching around the tire. And that's without having to lay on the ground. All that remains on after the link is disconnect are little ball joint studs and the limit straps. The link disconnects in one piece.

 

Something tells me I'm making a purchase tonight. I'll probably go with 1/2-20 (QI500/QIL500) all around so I can just buy a 2' length of threaded rod, cut it down, maybe sleeve it with heat shrink or flexible tubing to keep the elements off it. Their volume discounts even start at 2 pieces.

 

I'm gonna be losing sleep tonight thinking about how bad ass this is going to be!

 

(Sorry for the long post...excited.)

[hawairish]

LOL: These guys are 5 blocks from each other.

 

Midwest Control Products Corp., 590 East Main Street, Bushnell, IL 61422 USA

Steinjäger, Inc. Hwy 9 West Box 299, Bushnell, IL 61422

 

Anyone want me to make some extra sets? Volume discounts!

[NovaPath]

I'm 100% in. Please keep me posted. My only concern is if those will rattle and how tight the fit is. Regardless, we NEED to come up with a disconnect plan for these trucks, and I'm glad I've found a like minded individual that isn't just trashing them entirely.

 

I'll do some research on those links this weekend(thanks for posting!), but let me know if you pull the trigger first.

 

 

[hawairish]

I presume the tolerance will be snug, so minimal noise if any. But, I'd plan on greasing the sockets regardless, which will suppress noise.

 

The OE rear links are 7-1/8" (effective length from bottom of perch to socket center), and the front links are 7-1/2" socket center-center. The actual length of the completed link will be longer than those values, of course.

 

The precision of the length is somewhat arbitrary, though. For the rear, the effective length should technically increase equally with the amount of lift. In the front, the effective length should change by the amount of lift (strut spacers and coils) less subframe drop height (for those with SFDs, of course). Both calculations put the sway bar at stock angles.

 

In my case, I'll probably make my rear links about 2" longer, but the fronts will stay the same length. But really, the stock rear length appears fine, so maybe I won't change it much.

 

I'm crunching the numbers now. The thread depth of the joints don't allow much for adjustable length, but I don't see that as necessary.

The crappy part is that even if I order these up soon, I won't be able to touch them for a couple weeks due to work travel.

[hawairish]

Thoughts:

 

1. Ideally, I'd like to have a no-drill solution for both front and rear. Problem is that the 3/8" components are a little smaller in all proportions to the 1/2" links. That means a thinner threaded rod (and thinner than OE), but also about 1" more exposed thread than if it were 1/2". It seems plausible that a 3/8" link might be weaker than OE. As such, a 1/2" link seems more appropriate for the rear, even if it requires drilling holes wider. (The fronts will be 1/2")

 

2. Conveniently, 1/2" components are cheaper than 3/8" no matter how you spin it, so I will go the 1/2" route front and rear.

 

3. MCP has this little blurb on their Warranties page: "Ball Joints (ie: ES, ESA, Qi, SQi series, etc.) are very light duty; they are typically used only in hand or foot actuated linkages." I'm struggling a little with this one. Steinjager was born from MCP...it actually says that on their website. So why would I think that MCP sells a "very light duty" component that isn't suitable for the SJ link? The rest of their warranty page basically says, "don't quote us on strengths for anything we sell".

 

4. I didn't see much for reviews on the SJ links. There's a Youtube vid that a Jeeper posted up, but that guy also got completely (and unnecessarily) flamed by other Jeep f*ckheads for even putting disconnects on a Jeep (and that his frame was rusty). The problem with discos on a Jeep is that the wheel base and controls arms are too short, which leads to a higher potential of popping a spring on lifted Jeeps, and I think that's the point they were (poorly) trying to make. I think it's less of a problem for us, but I'm open to concerns. This can only be tested to some degree on a shop floor.

 

5. I was exploring 1/8" wire rope (i.e., steel cable, steel lanyard) options looped through a u-bolt plate/strap with some bends on it. This would attach with the hardware and would only come into play when the link is removed. I'd have to sketch this out so you have a better idea of its shape/function.

 

On a side note...maybe we should ask a moderator to rename this thread in the spirit of DIY disconnects?

[NovaPath]

I'm willing to be a guinea pig on this one. I'm going to try to do some research(or read the research you've already done thoroughly!!) tonight and then place an order. The swaybars don't see all THAT much force, and frankly if it fails it isn't the end of the world and can be easily repaired.

 

I like the u-bolt and strap idea for the rear, and I think we can find someplace to hang the front one on off of the body/wheel well etc.

 

Thanks for putting so much thought into this!

[NovaPath]

oh and with regard to the spring popping out, I don't see that happening unless of course a shock fails or breaks off, either way you've got problems if that happens anyways.

[NovaPath]

The 3/8" 90* and the 1/2" 180* are not in stock. I just checked amazon/google and it appears I will have to make some calls on monday to see if I can order over the phone from them or another distributor. Insert angry face here.

 

Edit: My main concern now is trying to figure out a way to keep them partially sealed so that grease can keep them lubricated. I guess we will have to take a closer look once one of us receives them, otherwise greasing them will be a weekly activity...

Edited May 8, 2015 by NovaPath

[hawairish]

The swaybars don't see all THAT much force, and frankly if it fails it isn't the end of the world and can be easily repaired.

 

I wouldn't downplay force. In fact, I think it's way more than we might expect, but I don't know how to quantify it. Think about when you're cornering...the truck wants to roll. The suspension on the outside of the turn bears weight, but the suspension on the opposite side of the vehicle does nothing to counteract it. The sway bar (I mean anti-sway bar) bears the weight on both sides...one side wants to compress the end link, and the other wants to extend. Faster speed around the corner, exponentially more force.

 

In experience, I've actually busted a nut (uh, yes, final answer) off a shaft-style end link (like the upper part of the rear link) on my Frontier. Not sure how, but did. So I assume the force to be significant.

 

oh and with regard to the spring popping out, I don't see that happening unless of course a shock fails or breaks off, either way you've got problems if that happens anyways.

 

Exactly.

[hawairish]

The 3/8" 90* and the 1/2" 180* are not in stock. I just checked amazon/google and it appears I will have to make some calls on monday to see if I can order over the phone from them or another distributor. Insert angry face here.

 

Edit: My main concern now is trying to figure out a way to keep them partially sealed so that grease can keep them lubricated. I guess we will have to take a closer look once one of us receives them, otherwise greasing them will be a weekly activity...

 

Where are you seeing them not in stock?

 

A small dab of multi-purpose should be sufficient I'd think. I doubt there's much play in the socket to need gobs of it. And judging by their drawing, there's a small pocket behind the socket where grease can reside.

[hawairish]

Well, I just ordered enough to make two sets of front and rear of disconnects. Went with the 1/2" all around. The discount volume is great...shipping was a bit pricey for UPS Ground...it was almost half the order. Total was just under $90 shipped...but enough to make 4 sets of links?! Totally worth it. If it doesn't work out, well, I have another project where these might come in handy (hint: a tailgate for the PF as part of a project rear cargo system).

 

About the U-bolt plate...I plan to get a plates around 1.25"W x 4"L and use them at all attachment points, front and rear. Each will have two bends: a 45° that the wire rope will loop through to keep it away from the link, and a U-shaped bend that will "wrap" the attachment point (bigger U shape for the sway bar ends, smaller/flatter U for the rear upper and strut perches. The U part will have a hole on both sides for the ball joint threaded shafts to go through; the U shape will act like a washer on both sides of the attachment point and will prevent the tab from rotating when it pulls on the sway bar (when the links are off, that is).