SUPRDLUX Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Hey guys, it's the new kid here. Just picked up a 94 XE 4x4 A/T () with 146k miles...very clean ride. I've only had one issue which is its' shifting. From first to second, there is some "shift shock" but only when it's cold. It does dissipate some after the transmission has warmed up a bit. From second to third, there is almost no hard shifting but rather a noise. It almost sounds like a cross between a radiator fan quickly scraping something tinny and a shovel quickly scraping concrete at the same time when it shifts. I dislike hearing that sound very much so I back off the throttle a little right before 3k rpm just so it won't make the sound when it shifts. Third to fourth is normal. I took it to a dealership to see if I could get an answer before I left town. The tech thought it was a sprag(?)...transmissions aren't my thing so he could've told me it was the kitty stick scraping the puff knuckle and I would've nodded. Anyone have any input? Also, the transmission is getting hot after driving it for 30 min intown which is why I'm buying an aftermarket transmission oil cooler VERY soon...like today if I could get done insightful input. I remember reading about getting a 16k-18k GVWR rated oil cooler but missed any specifics on dimensions or placement recommendations. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm going out of town in it in a couple of weeks. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) You may want to try this: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/TSB/NTB00-056b%20-%201988%20AND%20LATER%20NISSAN%20VEHICLES%20AUTOMATIC%20TRANSMISSION%20OIL%20COOLER%20CLEANING.pdf to start. Next I would suggest as a more reliable replacement something like this from somewhere like here: http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/year/1990/make/nissan/model/pathfinder/department/cooling-heating?N=4294950040%2B4294942485%2B4294935854%2B4294950709&gnview=Horizontal&PageSize=100&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending Edited April 21, 2015 by SpecialWarr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRDLUX Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 I got a 404 on that NICO link but I can look around. As for the cooler, I was thinking a Hayden 405 but I don't know if that'll be too big? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Dead link, but personally I would skip the cleaning altogether and go straight to the replacement... while hoping that it's not to late. Wrecking yard Explorer coolers are, or were, popular but I will let others with Auto's chime in here. Also going to move this to The Garage where you should get better exposure, since it is not a problem that is restricted to 4dr WD21's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Here are a couple threads from the Garage > How-To's section... How To: Transmission Cooler Install Replacing the Timing Belt & Adding an AT Cooler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 It's aliens... The tech thought it was a sprag(?)...transmissions aren't my thing so he could've told me it was the kitty stick scraping the puff knuckle and I would've nodded. Thanks for the chuckle! I remember reading about getting a 16k-18k GVWR rated oil cooler but missed any specifics on dimensions or placement recommendations. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm going out of town in it in a couple of weeks. Yes, that is generally the right size and about what fits. The important part is to get a 3/4" thick plate style cooler. 3/4" to fit behind the grill and plate type because they are the most efficient. There is a thread around here that details physical sizes as well as ratings and types. I'd drive the truck as little as possible until you install a cooler, and what does the fluid look like? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Get a cooler on there, you're in a warm area so no need to include the factory cooler. Also get that fluid changed as well. Even if it "looks good". Any good quality dexron 3 will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRDLUX Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 OK, so I'm going with a Hayden Ultra Cool but I wanna go with the biggest allowable size cos like you said adam, it can get pretty hot here so a 3/4 X 10 X 15-7/8 in. cooler it is. As for the fluid, I've been deliberating because I've heard different responses. Some say to change it no matter what, others say to mix some old with the new and the rest say to never change it if you're in doubt. I did top it off at that dealership but that's about it so far. I wanted to hold out for a 5 speed cos this vehicle desperately needs another gear but I got impatient. If I had my way then I'd just swap the drive train for a late model M/T Xterras but I'll have to put that one deep in my pocket for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Some say to change it no matter what, others say to mix some old with the new and the rest say to never change it if you're in doubt. Well, if you change it, you will mix some old with new unless you have a back flush machine. To never change it seems like odd advice to me... A 10x15" cooler will do the trick, but block some of your radiator so mount it offset as much as possible. If you are worried about temps, install a temp gauge; without one it is all just guesswork. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 How hot is the trans getting as you drive around town? Where do you feel the heat? I don't do gobs of city driving (not a lot of city around here) but I've never noticed excess heat from the trans, even when I was running the stock cooler on its own. A cooler would probably help yours dissipate some of that heat but I would want to know what's making it get that hot to begin with. My '95 does the hard 1 -> 2 as well. From what I've read, a lot of them do it. I did a little research into the grinding issue and couldn't find a similar case, so it's mostly speculation from here down. A sprag is a one-way clutch, so it lets something turn one way but not the other. Autotragics apparently use this alongside the clutch packs to determine which bits spin and which bits don't, so a failed sprag would take out the gear(s) it controlled. I remember the one-way clutch in my starter making a terrible squealing noise when it failed, so a wounded sprag making a scraping noise as it slips a little sounds plausible. I did find a mention of sprags making a clicking noise as they start to fail. I haven't found a report of a Nissan with this issue, but then again I haven't found another report of your shift noise either. I'm not a transmission guy, and my experience with the auto trans is pretty much just that I've driven one, but I would be pricing a used trans rather than putting money into one that overheats and grinds. Maybe a fluid flush would clean some crud out of the sprag and make it work again, but if there's enough crud floating around to cause that kind of issue, that doesn't inspire confidence in the clutch packs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 1-2 hard shift when cold is completely normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRDLUX Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Let's just say it gets hot enough at times to make my right leg a bit warm. The boot on the transfer case selector is all torn up though so I'm sure it seems a little worse than it really is. This weekend I'm installing the A/T cooler and I'm gonna do a half and half ATF change as well see if that helps any... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 hmm. Well the exhaust runs down that side and that is probably what you are feeling. I have never seen a trans generate that much heat to feel from the floor board. As far as the trans shifting if you hear a metalic noise there is no amount of flushing that will help it. There is planetary, one way clutch and other mechanical parts that once they fail its over. The biggest problem with the trannys is heat. If you do not change the fluid or tow alot the life is shortened. The seals in the pump get hard and loose the ability to generate or hold pressure. Usally the first thing to go is the reverse high clutch pack. There is always exceptions of course. My 92 I rebuilt the trans at 135,000 and my 91 is still original with 190,000. But when I do my oil changes at every 3,000 with syn I also do a drain fill on the trans. Just a thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 You could try some of the Lucas tranny treatment, but you may be too far gone if you're hearing noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRDLUX Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Either way I could always reuse the aftermarket cooler and NO towing or off roading, just some commuting. I changed my mind and got a PLATE style Hayden Rapid Cool 11 x 7.5 x 3/4" coming in the next day or two, installing that this weekend using the guide redpath88 shared. Then I'm handing it over to the next door neighbor whose a transmission specialist to see what he has to say as well. I'm just a light wrench turner: did the oil change and brake pads myself. I'm fortunate enough to have connections on parts and a dad who knows good folks and is a 30+ year experienced mechanic himself. Also, just the other day, the A/T temp light started flickering on and off in unison with the BRAKE light when it's cold and so has the battery light but it flickers on it's own at random. I get the feeling this is an electrical issue though which is an entirely different thread so I've been trying to find it. Thanks for all the responses guys, it's been a big help. I'd buy rounds for everyone if I could but cheers anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byob Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Dash lights flickering-could be diodes in the alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I removed the inner and outer transfer case boots from mine once and drove it into town like that. I thought the hair was gonna burn off my leg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailone32003 Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) So I read my transmission codes today and am not sure how to read it, what I got was a long flash followed by 4 short then a pause followed by 1 long flash followed by 5 short flashes then a long pause? Help Sorry wrong thread Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited May 16, 2015 by sailone32003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pav Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 From what I can tell using the info on AT 40 and your info I think its - 5th judgement flicker is longer than others...Shift solenoid valve B circuit is short circuited or disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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