bartine Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Also - he is going to fix the lovely and predicted hole in the floor pan under the rear sear / over the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) OK - while we are waiting on the guy to come do some welding next Saturday, we started in on the suspension. First - the tension rod on the drivers side was broken in half - sheared off where it was bolted onto the frame. It took me forever to figure out what this part was - I looked at every single part on Rockauto and couldn't find it - then finally stumbled onto Lint's post from 2011 - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31169-compression-tension-strut-rod-oh-crap/ Thank goodness - it links to parts and everything! If you look at the hole, there is a cup like washer that is totally disintegrated that goes in front of the hole in the frame the rod and bushings go into. So - after some surgical removal - the back part of it actually was still attached to the frame - it just broke off when we attached a wrench to it! The question - I've read of people repairing the hole and welding a new cup in place. Do I have to buy a new cup for the inner area of the frame hole - the one that got destroyed? Or - can we just place a new cup there and snug it up to hold everything in place? Part of the cup was still in place in this pic - but it literally just fell off when we took the remains of the tensioner rod off. You can see the cup that is still there on the back pic here - then the next picture shows the front of the hole - Edited April 5, 2015 by bartine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) The question - I've read of people repairing the hole and welding a new cup in place. Do I have to buy a new cup for the inner area of the frame hole - the one that got destroyed? Or - can we just place a new cup there and snug it up to hold everything in place? Yes, you need to put something in place of the cup, most people use race bearings. Let me find the threads with that info... No, using the bushing to locate/hold the cup is exactly backwards of what the set up is supposed to do. The bushings are supposed to be held in place and suspend the rod through the hole in the frame so there is no contact and doesn't shift around. B This should help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36792-broken-compression-rod/?do=findComment&comment=697564 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22748-have-you-checked-your-bushings/?do=findComment&comment=404591 Edited April 6, 2015 by Precise1 Found it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) So - got some welding done. The frame and passenger seat floor look really good now. Before: After: Edited April 11, 2015 by bartine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Passenger seat area: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Now - the tensioner rod area.I had not read the post above - when the guy came by we just welded a plate over the hole. Sounds like we messed up. Do I need to drill this hole out a bit more? It isn't snug around the bearing sleeve, but it isn't loose either... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I would drill it out a bit since the sleeve does appear to move in an up-down arc with the suspension ( along the length of the tension rod). Although the correct torque is listed at 100lbs-ft for the bushings and I can't see how that could move much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 They aren't really supposed to move. If they start moving the whole wear process starts again. And believe me it does not take long the second time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 It has to move somewhat for the suspension to flex, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) Got it. Bored out the hole a bit to make it bigger, then attached an L68111 bearing where the old cup had been attached. Once everything was tightened down, it fit perfectly. For anyone else who does this job, it was rough initially to get both of the bolts that attach to the lower control arm lined up at the same time. Turns out, it works fine if you jack up the lower control arm to get one bolt in, then lower it all the way to get the other bolt in place. When we went to the other side, the tensioner arm looked OK, but we decided to replace it anyway. Glad we did - the arm snapped off while we were taking the back bolt off! To anyone who has an older Pathfinder - if you haven't replaced your tensioner arms, I'd go and do it. Just like doing your timing belt - required maintenance! Suspension will be done this weekend, with the rear control arms next to be replaced. Then the gas tank goes back in (after de-rusting everything). It is looking solid underneath now, but geez- that was a whole lot of work! Edited April 17, 2015 by bartine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Update - front suspension and shocks are done - replaced pretty much everything up front. Looked at the back and decided to just replace the struts back there. I was going to replace the rear stabilizer arms, but where the upper part bolts in it is rusted badly - tried to get a wrench on it and it just won't hold. I'd have to cut away the cup that is around it so I could get to the bolt and cut it off. So - Next - bolt the fuel tank back in place. Then - we have to replace the bad water pump and will do the timing belt while we are at it. There was so much rust on this vehicle. Honestly - the way the undercoating was designed was criminal. There were overlapping gaps like joins in the undercoating - and they all trapped water. I've scraped all those back now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Question:The rear bumper is totaled - was rusted out. Where is a decent place to get a replacement bumper, and what exactly do I need to buy? Don't care about pretty, just want something to bolt on to protect the rear of the vehicle. At this stage, I don't want to pay a ton of money. Any thoughts? Anybody have a decent rear bumper they don't need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebayfish Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Besides for local parts yards, check www.car-parts.com . They inventory numerous yards & give pricing too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 Nice - thanks. We are heading down to Atlanta in two weeks for my son's graduation. Looks like there are multiple bumpers available on the way down from Maryland! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Ahhhhh.... Deep breath.... Finished the suspension, put in the rear shocks. Re-installed the gas tank, and decided to go for a quick test drive. It now drives 10 times worse than it did when we started. It was all over the road, and loud whines coming from the wheels. This could be the rotors, but it could be the hubs too.Then - when we pull in the driveway, one of the leads to the fuel pump on top of the gas tank gave way - it was really badly rusted to begin with, and just putting the hoses on and pulling them off must have been too much. So - it is spraying gas everywhere. I am fairly sure that there is no way to get the fuel pump off the top of the tank - those bolts were really badly rusted. So - we would have to get a new gas tank and a new fuel pump. Also - the tires are shot - I guess there is a chance it is the tires causing it to drive so badly. I really wish I had a set of decent tires I could put on it just to see if it drove better. I'm at a loss here. It just doesn't seem worth it. At this stage, I've only got $2,200 in the vehicle. So much work, and it is just a drop in the bucket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 What all did you change up front? Did you get an alignment? Sounds like massive toe-out to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 I changed out everything but the sway bar. That could be exactly what it is. I need tires anyway - could get it done at the same time at Sears... I tested things by pulling the tires and looking for play with a pry bar and it all looked good. One step at a time I guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 If you changed all the tie rods, idler arm, etc... You definitely need an alignment! No offense, but since it appears you have some experience working on cars, did you not think you would need one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 No offense taken at all - we were planning on getting one once everything was done.We took the tie rods off and compared them to the originals. Turns out I made a tactical error. We had very carefully counted the threads on each side of the tie rod to make sure we installed it the same way. That was a great concept if we were replacing them with OEM replacements. We weren't, so this time we measured them and they were way too short. Adjusted, and working much better now. Now we are tearing down the front of the engine to replace the water pump. I went ahead and ordered a new sending unit and got a new fuel pump. Although there isn't anything wrong with the current pump, might as well replace that too. Also got new breaks on order all the way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Front of the engine is torn down. Decided to look at the seals - one cam seal was visibly leaking, the others looked OK. I've never changed an engine seal before - and Doc's horror story on the engine seals makes this never racking. Removing the cam gears / pulleys was easy - I used a strap wrench we had bought to help with oil filters. It held the cam gear nicely - then the nut came right off. Well - it was a pain, but it did come off anyway. Tomorrow - replacing the cam and crankshaft seals. Are there other places on the front of these engines where it can leak oil? Although this thing only has 100k miles, every single piece of rubber so far has been perished - I'd rather go ahead and replace it now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Change that coolant elbow while you're in there. It's not expensive and is known as the bypass hose. That's about it for oil leaks, keep in mind it is 20 years old, my first 95 I bought in 2006 had no oil leaks and it had around 120k miles when I tore it down to do the timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piscator Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 That rust isn't so bad. Glad you found someone who can do the job at a decent price. I too have a 95 and it's been the single most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. I just replaced the hatch and rear window struts and the ignition switch. I need to attack my drivers side rust, the frame behind the axle doesn't have much left, thinking on solutions for that... Check under the rear seat on the drivers side for a rusty bit above the muffler, great place for rust there I'm just up north of you in Howard county. If you need help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 That rust isn't so bad. Glad you found someone who can do the job at a decent price. I too have a 95 and it's been the single most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. I just replaced the hatch and rear window struts and the ignition switch. I need to attack my drivers side rust, the frame behind the axle doesn't have much left, thinking on solutions for that... Check under the rear seat on the drivers side for a rusty bit above the muffler, great place for rust there I'm just up north of you in Howard county. If you need help... I have been shopping around and what I've found is that with some common flat ground stock in 0.190" it's possible to make a piece of angle that you can slide into place and weld on. I am in the process of working up sections of a complete box welded section from the axle back to the bumper for both sides. Someone before me has already been at it with .250"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Found a nice, rust free Pathfinder being parted out in Elgin, South Carolina. Bought the rear bumper and the running boards. Lots of great parts left for those who might live in the South. Michael, the guy who owns the truck is very nice to deal with. It has a bad tranny, all else is good. http://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/5001103672.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartine Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Finally put everything back together after our weekend in Georgia. Drove it to the gas station. Other than needing to adjust the belts, it was perfect. Thanks to everyone who dropped me a note or advice - it was really appreciated! Now, we need to buy some tires - still need to get that alignment done. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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