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byob

Ex manifold studs made easy

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I just bought another pathfinder with the typical exhaust leak. Here is your typical 8mm ex stud that break due to stretching. I replace all even though only two are broken. Total time in about 45 minutes.

 

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Here it is with the manifold removed. The key is to get a pilot hole close to center. I use a 1/8 drill

 

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Here is the tool I use

 

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Easy repair

 

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That thing is fantastic. I'm definitely buying one!

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You wouldn't happen to have a part number for that would you?

 

 

Yup thats about it

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Your engine compared to mine is like night and day. If the truck has been in the salt belt like mine then the studs will be rusted in and nothing will budge them. Had to drill for hours to replace mine without egging the holes out horribly.

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Two trains of thought djratlif if iI was in that situation. I would soak the broken stud in PB blaster or the second would be to drill out the stud and retap it. Center punching the center of the stud is very important if you are drilling it out. The studs are actually pretty soft compared to the juke turbo studs that i have to drill out.

 

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The extracter is instead of having to retap. I've used them with success and I also had one break off in the broken stud. Try drilling those two out!

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I have had a drill and a rigid break in the stud. Needless to say I went to 10mm studs

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I have seen these Matco extractors, I think the part # here is SEXS25A.

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The good thing about this type of extractor (the last type I used) is that once you have the stud drilled (PITA) you can tap the extractor into the stud with a hammer to seat it before you try to back it out. I would say it's the only type I would ever use or recommend again. My set was nearly identical, but I know it wasn't matco.

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So it is an EZ Out with a hex head?

2-EZout.jpg

They work well, but I have had bad luck with the small ones breaking. For small diameter extractions, I prefer the straight flute variety. :shrug:

 

Yep, always file or grind the stud face flat if possible, center punch or grind a dimple in the center to start with, start the hole with a center drill and then switch to the drill. Pre-soak the stud, use cutting fluid and left handed drills, I've had screws loosen and screw out that way. Make sure you are drilling straight, and don't rush...

I prefer to use T handles to hold my extractors, I have a better feel that way. As has been mentioned, do not break the extractor off in the stud! That makes things a bit more difficult...

 

B

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Lol! That was funny.

 

He miss quoted Red Green though.

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Skookum as frig! I'd forgotten about this one. I'm hoping my exhaust studs come out with the extractor, but I might just order up some alum in case plan A doesn't pan out.

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Skookum as frig! I'd forgotten about this one. I'm hoping my exhaust studs come out with the extractor, but I might just order up some alum in case plan A doesn't pan out.

 

The easiest way is to weld a nut to them. Turned right out after.

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The easiest way is to weld a nut to them. Turned right out after.

 

I don't know if I'm that coordinated. To be able to hold a nut tight onto the head with a pair of pliers, wedge a MIG gun in there and be able to see what you're doing demands, I think, a bit more than I am capable of!!

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Well, time to do my manifold studs. Step one: lift kit.

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Well, time to do my manifold studs. Step one: lift kit.

My Xterra on 33's is far enough off the ground I could change my oil with very little crawling effort and work under the truck with ample room. I still drive all 4 corners onto ramps before changing my oil or starting any work that doesnt need the truck on jackstands.

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Lmao I have never even owned a set of ramps. Even my stock height X and pathy I can change the oil in 10 minutes without raising it an inch. I don't like to piss around wasting time though.

 

My original 95 I paid a shop to do the studs, it was stock then. They said it was a bitch but they replaced them all and I never had an issue. My 94 came with the 3" body lift (thank fskc because it is a pain to install), and a member here and his mechanic did the studs, I was really sick with crohns at the time so I just watched. And the current 95 I had, well I put a new motor in so I made sure they were all good before installing it, lol.

Edited by adamzan

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Lmao I have never even owned a set of ramps. Even my stock height X and pathy I can change the oil in 10 minutes without raising it an inch. I don't like to piss around wasting time though.

 

My original 95 I paid a shop to do the studs, it was stock then. They said it was a bitch but they replaced them all and I never had an issue. My 94 came with the 3" body lift (thank fskc because it is a pain to install), and a member here and his mechanic did the studs, I was really sick with crohns at the time so I just watched. And the current 95 I had, well I put a new motor in so I made sure they were all good before installing it, lol.

It doesnt take much time for me, they are usually out in the driveway and i just pull in, place em, pull up and change my oil, total process is probably about 10-15 minutes if I don't dilly dally on other things.

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I have not tried that method yet but I will when another of my exhaust studs break! I _could_ weld a nut onto the remains of the stud but that sounds like work.... Why do that when you can let chemistry do the work for you?!!

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