DCgabel Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hello Fellow Npora members,I have a manual vg33e engine in a 96 R50 that has a significant leak from the oil pans. Now, i know that you can simply buy the gaskets online and replace them but what about the lower pan? I have it leaking out of there too. I was thinking of taking it all apart and just rtv-ing it all back nicely but im just fishing for ideas and what other people have done. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Try snugging the bolts first, and I do mean lightly. That alone might stop the drips (same goes for valve cover gaskets). B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 X 2. If you have either (oil pan or valve covers) off make sure they haven't been over tightened before. Check the covers/pan flanges to make sure they aren't dimpled in around the bolt holes. I have a vg35 ('03) and the leak is actually a rust hole through the pan...yes a rust hole in an oil pan. I would say get under there and clean it all up and see where the oil is actually leaking from but you're in Ontario in Feb. so good luck on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Grimsby...Home of Radial Village, Hyw #8 maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wifes96NP Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Just tightening the valve cover screws might not stop the leaking or it could make it worse. Seal replacement may be needed but from all the stuff that needs removing to accomplish it, it is a lot of work. I just had mine done. Unfortunately the EGR valve and assembly was so far corroded that the flange broke off in the valve and i had to replace it. The oil pan would be much easier. Not sure if this car uses a gasket, but if you clean it up after all residual oil has quit dripping, clean surfaces with mineral spirits, then use an appropiate permatex sealant, bolt it back up, it will hold for ever. Make sure you tighten to specified torque settings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Just tightening the valve cover screws might not stop the leaking or it could make it worse. Never happened to me in 30 years... Over tightening perhaps, but usually it helps or does nothing from my experience. I've only needed to change valve cover gaskets a few times. A good example, our 1999.0 R50. When we bought it with 150k on it, the spark plug wells were filled with a mix of old baked oil and acorn husks from mice, and the manifolds would smoke slightly when it was hot. It took me hours to clean out the wells so I could change the plugs, and I tightened the vavle cover screws (most were at least a turn loose). 4 years and 30k miles later, still no leak or smoke... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCgabel Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 I just replaced the whole works. Took the old pan off replaced with a new one with new screws. Scraped the old sealant off put new on and replaced the front and rear seals. All in all, new cost totaled approx. $298 CDN. Thats for a new Oil pan both seals and all new bolts. Little pricey but i wanted it done. I found one off a wreckers for $80 but id have to buy new bolts and seals anyways and the pan wasn't the best condition anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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