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Check Engine Light Help?


Stifun
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Light is on

 

Symptoms

Rough idle on start up

Slow acceleration

 

This Problem has been happening for a while recently took to mechanic to see if he

Could fix it he said he changed the fuel filter and bumped up

The fuel pressure and fixed a vaccum leak it seemed to fix it for like

A week but the Check Engine Light is On again HELP Please

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and what do you mean about a bad tank of gas? Just something different that it didn't like to run on or actually bad fuel or debris in the tank which can happen if you fillup just as the underground tanks are being filled which would stir-up any sediment that may be in those tanks and cause issues with 'yuk' being pumped

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Well took all day and fixed it a total of three times but I think we have it fixed this time.

 

As far as all the codes that were triggered all I remember is a bad oxygen sensor which we replaced but I will go back on Monday and ask him if he remembers all the codes.

 

So far found out it had a bad vaccum line leak that was replaced the one close to throttle body it had a huge crack in what am asuming was the original hose.

 

Then all the Sparkplugs were taken out and while performing the work we also found out that the last sparkplug by the firewall the plug wire was loose and not making good contact with plug and the actual spark plug was also very loose.

 

Cliff notes

Changed out vaccum line

Changed out spark plugs

Changed out oxygen sensor.

 

Further ?

Is it normal for a Pathy with 146K miles to have a leaking valve cover gasket.

 

Also another condition that I wanted to ask if its Normal is this when driving at HWY speeds and you are accelerating then when you stop pressing the gas pedal I feel what seems like a slight kickback as in the tranny easing back but not super smooth after realising gas pedal.

 

Thanks for all the guidance and advice.

Edited by Stifun
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Sounds like it had a few issues! Hopefully fixing those does the trick.

 

Leaking valve cover gaskets are dead common, and tightening the valve cover screws down often helps.

 

Not sure exactly what you're talking about, but that is when it's supposed to go into overdrive. Do the revs drop quite a bit when it does this?

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bad gas could be water in the gas, especially in colder climates it's always a good idea to run the gas line anti freeze in the gas once in a while.

 

 

If you haven't done it already I would suggest replacing ALL the vacuum lines, these trucks are getting old and the rubber doesn't last forever, a small crack on the end of the hose or in a place you can't see easily will make the engine run ******, just buy some different diameter vacuum line and replace one at a time.

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So far seems to be running much much smoother.

 

Thanks for all the advice & I will try and find out the codes that were scaned.

 

Also I will take the advise posted and go ahead and replace all the Vaccum lines does anybody have a pdf of how many I have to replace.

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Going to the Mechanic this morning.

 

Will try and get the codes.

 

 

Also will try to replace all the Vacuum lines one question are the lines dealer specific or can I use run of the mill heater hose for all of them.

 

 

Thanks

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just pick up the vacuum hose from the auto parts, there are a couple different sizes so you may need to either buy a few different sizes or pull a couple different hoses off to check the sizes, I would replace every hose you can, just make sure to do one at a time

 

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just pick up the vacuum hose from the auto parts, there are a couple different sizes so you may need to either buy a few different sizes or pull a couple different hoses off to check the sizes, I would replace every hose you can, just make sure to do one at a time

 

Thanks for the advice I tried to get the Mechanic to change them out but he said they are a dealer item only and can't get them at local parts store.

 

 

I really think he did not want to bother but I will take them off one at a time and have them replaced the ones that are visible to me and not too hard I will do the rest when I have the Timing Belt done in like 10,000 miles.

 

 

Great forum makes owning a Classic SUV like ours a Joy and not a Pain to own.

 

I will drive mine till the wheels fall off I love my old Pathy.

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I brought a sample of what I was looking for to the auto parts place, handed it to the guy behind the counter, and he hooked me up with the right stuff. It fit up like stock and looks original except that it's not all cracked and knackered. Installation was pretty easy, especially after I removed the air intake tube (the accordion looking bit). Don't forget the line to the fuel pressure regulator, behind the intake. I've heard of those coming unhooked and causing problems. There's also a sticker on the underside of the hood detailing which lines go where, in case you unhook two at once and forget where they go!

 

While you're in there, you might try cleaning the throttle body as well. I didn't notice how dirty mine was until I was in there to do the lines. I removed it, cleaned the black muck out of it, and also cleaned out the EGR connection to the intake because it was just about clogged solid and I was in there anyway (and I wonder why small jobs take me so long!). I didn't have new gaskets so I just took things apart carefully, sprayed some permatex copper stuff on the old ones, and put it all back together again. I wasn't having issues particularly when I started the job, but between the lines and the cleaning, the truck seemed to get a lot of power back.

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