Jump to content

Lifting WD21 Height Difference


ebayfish
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've had a few people locally ask how much & what clearances I've gained with my 3+3 lift, so I figured I'd share in case anyone is debating on what to do to there's. Total cost of the JGC 3" suspension lift with new coils(MOOG progressive rate V8) & shocks all around, about $175 and 3 hr. labor. Total cost of 3" Body Lift $165, $130 for the kit(Jegs.com), about $10 in hoses, etc, $25 for a 4wd Shifter arm & (2) m12x1.25x175mm bolts robbed from a junk yard's hardbody torsion bar adjusters(otherwise about $20/per bolt from supply house) total time, about 10 hrs labor.

 

copyImage.bmp_zps9v9rttcw.jpeg

Bare Bones Stock, The day I bought her. Stock 235/65/15 (measures 27 3/4" tall)

 

20141023_123548_zps5a0ba0ee.jpg3" JGC Lift, stock 235s in rear, 31x10.50 front(no rubbing at all) 33x11.50 sitting on the side.

 

2014-10-26114012_zpsdb53df2c.jpg3" JGC Lift with 33x11.50 (275/65/18), with minor fender trimming, before trimming, rubbed alot in turns or any flexing

 

2014-12-14113028_zpsc90d1151.jpg

3" LGC Lift, 3" Body lift, 33x11.50 tires. No rub at while turning/flexing. I do get some body roll around quick turns or when catching wind behind a semi on the interstate though. Looks good, flexes well, and center of gravity is still fairly low due to the body lift. It gets compliments nearly every time I'm fueling at the pumps. The rear flexes alot more & the ride is more comfortable with the JGC coils, longer shocks & I cranked the front torsion bars down about 1/2-3/4". I could still bury the rear tires against the inner fender wells in the rear at full flex before the body lift. Even with 31s,left that way without body lift, it may have required more rear fender trimming or longer rear axle bump stops.

 

Chromed alloy wheels & lower profile tires saved alot of weight & only cost me about 1/2 mile per gallon. After hearders, exhaust and new intake, I average 18.6 MPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your stock tires were 235/65/15? The standard factory size should have been 235/75/15. Check your door frame. ;)

Glad to hear that you didn't lose any mileage though... :aok:

 

What is a WD41 though? is that like WD39? :unsure:

 

300x300.jpg

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I was just about to post to see if anyone had used the Moog JGC coils, then I found this. So you got 3 inches of lift from the springs? How do you like them after a few months of use? Have they settled any, or still about the same height?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They settled about 1/4", the rear is much softer & smoother than factory(of course shocks are better too). I'd recommend them. Just picked up another Pathy today....probably do the exact same configuration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool! I'm very seriously thinking about ordering a set next payday. Softer in what way? More comfortable ride, or do you also get more body lean on corners?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get a little lean as center of gravity is higher, but cranked torsion bars stiffen the ride. Everything is very responsive. I paid I think 76.99

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was my experience too & I didn't have to pull it in a junkyard. I like the progressive rate too, rides on the soft spring but when unsprung, offers good droop.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would you mind sharing the moog part number? I'm wanting to go your same route minus the body lift. Are the JGC v8 coils progressive rate springs? Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello new to the forums. Just purchsed a 95 pathy (no reverse of course) and was wanting to lift it a tad to match better with the 31's the previous owner put on it. I'm happy with just the lift the springs gave. Didn't understand off the bat what was meant by JGC until I looked up the part number for the springs. All to clear now. Guess my question would be how did you match front and back height when you did the springs? I am assuming to front was lifted the first 3 inches by a torsion adjustment? By the way does anyone have a link for torsion adjustment for these offhand? Sorry if these questions seem simplistic but I've only owned very old 4x4's. I'm new to the asian truck world but very impressed with this truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No offense, but you might want to fix the reverse first! I would hate to have it completely give up on a trail somewhere and then you are screwed.

 

To lift the front you adjust the torsion bars. There are adjusters under the truck about where the front/back doors meet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks and yes I'm looking into the tranny as well. Of course I was told by the owner that it was just the reverse selenoid, but I don't think I've seen just that fix one yet.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doubt its the couch solenoid, reverse is common to go out. If you have to replace your trans, use one from a 2000-2004 xterra. They are much stouter & bolt/plug right in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My trans came from an ,02 xterra/frontier. Look on www.car-parts.com I found mine through there for $300. If you get one from a supercharged truck(even stronger), be sure to get the flex plate as well. Don't forget to install a remote oil cooler on the trans lines & remove it from the stock radiator cooler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Second on the Isolator question. given the age and mileage i might as well buy new ones but i've seen a mention about cutting the springs. Sorry for all the noob questions. I just want to do this right the first time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used the stock spring isolators. The new springs are the same diameter & work fine. On that white pathy I torched off the pigtail. On my other one, I sraigtened I the pigtail with heat, which gave it a slightly higher ridehight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I got my Moog JCG springs on. Using the calculations in some other thread, it looks like I have about 1.5 inches lift over new stock, probably more over 20 year old springs (I didn't measure beforehand). I cut the pigtails off with an angle grinder, which cut the spring really easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a FYI for everyone: when measuring body height, measure all 4 corners (at the wheel) to the center of the body crease. It is the only stable reference from vehicle to vehicle...

Also, when adjusting height, remember that raising the front will raise the back some, so when reindexing T-bars or just cranking up a saggy front, do that first and then check out the rear. It might be that no real lift is needed back there.

Obviously, before and after numbers are what it is based on, so make sure to get good readings on as level a ground you can use. Write them down, trust me on this... ;)

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Cool, I was headed to the jy to collect some front springs off a 95 jeep grand Cherokee for my rear coil swap but I'm debating now either its better to get these that your talking about

 

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...