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AkPrecision
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7 minutes ago, Sjackson2 said:

Just a heads up....they guy that owns jackson motor sports has stated that that was their original prototype and it works pretty much as well as the one they were selling. I made one  last week from 6 dollars worth of 1 1/4 angled steel. It’s working great and is one of the better mods I’ve done to my pathy

Very nice to hear! I was uncertain of the strength of the design, but when I put it on and immediately felt less body roll I knew I was on the right track. Good to hear that sentiment reiterated 

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On 1/1/2019 at 8:55 AM, MTGunner said:

OK, following this thread and can someone clarify the advantage in this modification. Has been said that it improves handling and makes suspension stiffer. 

This would be a easily fabricated link if the advantages are truly significant. Please elaborate more. Thanks. MTG

 

I've had one for quite some time now and to tell the truth I don't really notice it. They're honestly over-hyped if you ask me, but there's really no reason not to do it seeing as to how easy it is. Granted, I did put it in at the same time as I put in new rear springs and shocks, so the car definitely felt different after, but the link itself didn't really stand out specifically.   

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2 hours ago, micahfelker said:

 

I've had one for quite some time now and to tell the truth I don't really notice it. They're honestly over-hyped if you ask me, but there's really no reason not to do it seeing as to how easy it is. Granted, I did put it in at the same time as I put in new rear springs and shocks, so the car definitely felt different after, but the link itself didn't really stand out specifically.   

Was the difference mind blowing? No. But for 6 dollars and an hours worth of work I’ve nevwr done a better mod to my truck. The difference in body roll while cornering on a particular tight freeway turn is very noticeable. I’m super happy with mine 

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I'm planning on attempting this probably this weekend.  Anyone else at all concerned about the possible head-on collision factor?  I read on another thread the potential for the engine to not drop far enough in the event of a collision.

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17 minutes ago, cham said:

I'm planning on attempting this probably this weekend.  Anyone else at all concerned about the possible head-on collision factor?  I read on another thread the potential for the engine to not drop far enough in the event of a collision.

I would be concerned about that with some of the heavier duty ones like the jackson motorsports one....but with something like conduit with the ends crushed...i seriously doubt it could prevent the motor from not dropping back. if it could id be seriously impressed 

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That would make sense because in the end it's about the lateral stiffness which most any bar has, not the bar's ability to resist shear or a bending moment.  A conduit sounds like the perfect fit then.  

On 12/11/2014 at 5:17 AM, CNAM said:

 

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I kind of like CNAM's version though for it's simplicity to fab and look.  Any thoughts?  Could it be the reason for some feeling more of a difference than others due to the simple fact that the bar itself is stronger and more rigid which lets it fight better against torsion and lateral forces?  I'm more than likely overthinking it, there's a very high possibility it'll be the same no matter what it used as long as it's torqued correctly.

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21 minutes ago, cham said:

That would make sense because in the end it's about the lateral stiffness which most any bar has, not the bar's ability to resist shear or a bending moment.  A conduit sounds like the perfect fit then.  

I kind of like CNAM's version though for it's simplicity to fab and look.  Any thoughts?  Could it be the reason for some feeling more of a difference than others due to the simple fact that the bar itself is stronger and more rigid which lets it fight better against torsion and lateral forces?  I'm more than likely overthinking it, there's a very high possibility it'll be the same no matter what it used as long as it's torqued correctly.

I cant see the link from work so when i get home ill take a look and let you know what i think. Ill try to post a pic of mine too. Its just a 24 inch piece of angled steel. It's pretty sturdy...definitely sturdier than conduit....but i dont imagine it would be strong enough to stop the engine from dropping either 

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022826754bf3e191554a8498320ab090.jpg

Here it is in all its glory. Took just over an hour of labor mainly due to taking and marking measurements/test fitting. Only thing I highly and I mean highly recommend is to have some sort of air impact wrench if you can because those bolts were frozen. Other than that fairly simple. Decided to use 3/4 EMT but I may have a version 2.0 in the future with just a flat stock bar like CNAM’s. The only reason I didn’t choose this to begin with was because I definitely don’t have the tools to drill through a 1/4in piece of solid steel. After having driven around the block I’ve noticed no huge improvement but body roll has seemed to improve pretty noticeably. Maybe feel like I can take corners faster? Im sure for most people the placebo effect is at play but I think it’s worth the what $10 max you might pay.


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I'd be interested to see how much those LCA mounts actually shift around without a missing link. Make a collapsible missing link (one piece of conduit sleeved over another smaller one or something like that), rigid enough that it doesn't flop up and down but free to slide so it's not providing any actual bracing. Rig a Sharpie to one piece, with the tip resting against the other piece, and then take the truck out for a rip. If the mounts move relative to each other (movement the missing link would prevent), the Sharpie will draw a line the length of the total deflection. Then crawl back under and measure the length of the line. (Or mount a GoPro if you have one of those laying around for a better look at what's going on under varying circumstances, not just the max deflection.) That could make a compelling case for/against this mod.

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:

The bar should be 23 3/4 long. Holes are about 22.5 inches apart

Ya that sounds about right. Holes are somewhere just over 22” if I remember correct.

2 hours ago, joshrichard said:


Do you have measurements for this?

I can measure mine if you want. 

Edited by PathyDude17
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7 minutes ago, joshrichard said:


I’m just gonna make one, I almost bought one a couple weeks ago but decided I didn’t want to pay an extra $100 for something I can do for $10

Exactly...and John jackson from jackson motors ports who built the original prototype said that the conduit was just as good as his. The only reason he built his is so it could be a mounting point for a skid plate 

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3 hours ago, joshrichard said:


I’m just gonna make one, I almost bought one a couple weeks ago but decided I didn’t want to pay an extra $100 for something I can do for $10

Good deal, you might want to hit those bolts with some WD40 or whatnot before you try it. I had to let them sit a few hours before I finally got it loose with a breaker bar

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Good deal, you might want to hit those bolts with some WD40 or whatnot before you try it. I had to let them sit a few hours before I finally got it loose with a breaker bar

I’ll spray it with some rust penetrate then get them with an impact wrench, thanks for the reminder!
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  • 3 weeks later...

Here’s my variation on the missing link. I enlarged the unused holes already on the inside edges of the controlling arm brackets and bolted it on that way instead of putting it under the control arm bolt itself. This was really just because it is what easily worked with what I happened to have on hand. I’m in the camp of people who felt like I could tell a noticeable difference. I was actually a bit surprised. It’s such a cheap and simple mod it doesn’t make sense not to do it in my opinion.3b619942894335cb0ab0f043444ffa22.jpg846e2b240d82b5ade1e2d42255780aa1.jpg17e196355cbcc17395f43d1ca196c0db.jpg


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Edited by Bax03SE
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I made my missing link out of square tubing, this was the first "mod" that I did and I did notice a difference in terms of rigidness of the vehicle. Especially in the area I live in with tons of hills and turns I could tell immediately after it went on. Again not super dramatic but could tell the difference.cd3a8fb76e724706eb43faa8430d1dcd.jpg

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19 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:

I made my missing link out of square tubing, this was the first "mod" that I did and I did notice a difference in terms of rigidness of the vehicle. Especially in the area I live in with tons of hills and turns I could tell immediately after it went on. Again not super dramatic but could tell the difference.cd3a8fb76e724706eb43faa8430d1dcd.jpg

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I think the missing link may make more of a noticeable difference for those of us who run spacers, seeing as anyone with aftermarket springs has a stiffer ride and therefore better handling.

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I think the missing link may make more of a noticeable difference for those of us who run spacers, seeing as anyone with aftermarket springs has a stiffer ride and therefore better handling.
True, although when I did this I had stock worn out suspension so it was pretty bad before. Now with upgraded suspension and bushings it's pretty hard to tell now

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