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front propeller shaft


Bruce
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Dear all, i'm facing a weired problem now, it's noise from car bottom, louder with car speed.

I went back to Infiniti Taiwan, the mechanician told might be front propeller shaft issue.

There is unusual tolerance.

So far I have 3 ways to do

1. close window while driving pretend nothing woring

2. warn manual hub

3. replace whole shaft, infiniti quotes about US$800. Mine is 2001 QX4.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/QX4/2001%20QX4/Propeller%20Shaft%20&%20Differential%20Carrier.pdf

 

Need your opinions on it, thanks.

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Can't just replace the front shaft's u-joint (assuming that's the problem)? It's an inexpensive, off-the-shelf part here in the US. Doubt it's different in Taiwan.

 

Does the front shaft even spin while not in 4wd or during auto mode (depending on how your truck is equipped)? Sure it's not the rear driveshaft u-joint or a wheel bearing? How would you describe the noise: hum, screech, scrape, grind, other?

 

Whatever the noise is, you should probably crawl around and start shaking or inspecting things. Noises are bad. Something rotating at speed and making louder noise is really bad. If it's a u-joint, and it grenades while driving, you may end up buying a new driveshaft anyway.

 

 

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Can't just replace the front shaft's u-joint (assuming that's the problem)? It's an inexpensive, off-the-shelf part here in the US. Doubt it's different in Taiwan.

 

Does the front shaft even spin while not in 4wd or during auto mode (depending on how your truck is equipped)? Sure it's not the rear driveshaft u-joint or a wheel bearing? How would you describe the noise: hum, screech, scrape, grind, other?

 

Whatever the noise is, you should probably crawl around and start shaking or inspecting things. Noises are bad. Something rotating at speed and making louder noise is really bad. If it's a u-joint, and it grenades while driving, you may end up buying a new driveshaft anyway.

 

 

 

Yes, the front propeller shaft spins when in 2WD. This is because of the auto-locking hubs. Getting manual hubs (Warn, etc.) would work, but it is only a band-aid fix. I would look at replacing the U-joints as they are much cheaper than buying a full shaft. Two u-joints are $30 and labor to replace them should be no more than $200.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself and save on labor cost. It's really easy to do, just need to mark the shaft position prior to removal so that it is installed back the same way. Removal of the shaft is only 4 bolts on each side of the shaft. The u-joints will need to be pressed out. If I remember correctly, I used a 3 arm jaw puller to press them out. Total time was about 1.5-2 hours.

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Thanks. Guess I never gave it much thought.

 

Still curious to hear Bruce's description of the sound. Would a bad u-joint make an unbearable noise? I'd expect vibration more than anything, maybe a hum (the u-joint basically oscillates on the bearings, so I'd expect an oscillating noise). The type of noise really matters here; I'm a little skeptical that it's a u-joint without getting more info.

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Do a simple test....

 

Remove your front propeller and do a test drive. If the noise is gone, then it is something related to the propeller, if not then you can continue doing diagnostics... It could just be a bad wheel bearing or even a transfer case bearing etc...

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Do a simple test....

 

Remove your front propeller and do a test drive. If the noise is gone, then it is something related to the propeller, if not then you can continue doing diagnostics... It could just be a bad wheel bearing or even a transfer case bearing etc...

Excellent idea.

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The noise is like clock ticking.

 

Bruce sent from taiwan

That is likely the u-joints. Mine were ticking as well. I could here them ticking when driving next to a barrier or wall. The ticking sound would bounce off the wall which made it more noticeable. After replacing both ujoints, the sound went away.

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Yes! You are exactly right. However, from page 4 of the PDF, which is the u_joint?

Also, I don't think mine is adjustable. What is the purpose to have adjustment? In fact I never see Infiniti Taiwan give grease into front propeller shaft.

 

Bruce sent from taiwan

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The u-joint is labelled as "journal" in that picture. The journal bearings and snap rings are also part of the u-joint assembly to replace. The u-joints are not adjustable.

 

The grease point is for the small (very small) movements the propeller shaft tube's yoke will make within the rear of the tube while driving. Since the front diff is in a near-static position, it doesn't see nearly as much movement as your rear driveshaft does. But because both the diff and tranny/t-case are on rubber bushings and mounts, it has to allow for some play.

 

I'd definitely give Fleurys suggestion a try. It takes about 5 mins to pull the driveshaft. 14mm wrench should do it.

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I agree with what hawairish said. You should remove the shaft and verify the ticking noise is gone. BUT before removing it, use a marker to mark the position of the flange on both ends so that you can put it back the same way. If after removal the sound is no longer present, then just take the shaft to a mechanic and have them replace both u-joints (journals).

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Yes, the front propeller shaft spins when in 2WD. This is because of the auto-locking hubs. Getting manual hubs (Warn, etc.) would work, but it is only a band-aid fix. I would look at replacing the U-joints as they are much cheaper than buying a full shaft. Two u-joints are $30 and labor to replace them should be no more than $200.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself and save on labor cost. It's really easy to do, just need to mark the shaft position prior to removal so that it is installed back the same way. Removal of the shaft is only 4 bolts on each side of the shaft. The u-joints will need to be pressed out. If I remember correctly, I used a 3 arm jaw puller to press them out. Total time was about 1.5-2 hours.

AFAIK all the R50's came with drive flanges that were permanently engaged, not auto locking hubs. Replacing them with manual selectable hubs does definitely reduce front end drive train wear and might increase gas mileage.

 

B

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(for a better explanation, I will name the parts the same name they do in the Factory service manual...)

To my opinion, it would probably be the journals. Since the front propeller shaft was removed, (and the noise is gone), we can safely assume that the front differential bearing is not causing the noise as it still turns when the propeller shaft is removed.

 

There is 2 for the front propeller. When you buy them, they come with the journal bearings and the snap rings.You can see on page PD-5 of the fsm that you will need two of them. You can go oem or find an alternate in aftermarket. I did a post on this some time ago : see here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25609-spicer-u-joints-vs-oem-nissan/?p=481906 (they cost about 23 USD$ each,

 

To replace them, have a look here :

 

Now,,, is that a great answer or what .! :lol:

 

 

 

 

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Update after 4 hours...(no edit function here?)

 

after a bunch of google and phone contact, i got 2 part#

GMB 220-0046 which is directly interchangable to NEAPCO 10029

GMB GUN46 which is NOT directly interchangable to NEAPCO 10029

 

Diameter 27mm

Total length 72mm

I have no idea what the difference is.

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At that point, why not go to your nissan dealer and buy oem ?

Agreed. Not sure how the auto parts industry is there. I also find many OEM parts on eBay for a fair price. The p/n is 37126-01G26, listed around $75 US. The front driveshaft takes 2 of them.

 

While you've got the driveshaft out, you can probably take it apart before buying anything and see if you can rebuild one or both. It'd probably be best to replace both, budget permitting. But if you've got 4 good journal bearings and a good journal, you should be able to rebuild one. Give them a clean-up and check for play/wear before greasing them up.

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