Precise1 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Last time I had it done, it cost $60. A new torque wrench cost $80, so AHB is basically right. You can do a crude test though, have someone with a known good torque wrench torque a few bolts, and you mark them with a sharpie, then chase the torque, meaning start a bit lower than what ever torque they used, and keep increasing until the bolt/nut moves before you click/beam point. At whatever torque the bolt/nut moves that your registers - 5% is about where your wrench is. Crude, but it will tell you if you are in the ballpark. There are torque wrench cal tools as well, so you might want to ask around for who has one and would let you give it a try for a 6 pack... http://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dfya "Guttentite" Should have known! That isn't even a word, you know... (pet peave) Maybe there's a really confused tweaker in your neighborhood who thinks your lug nuts are left hand thread. Is the wheel damaged at all around the mounting holes? All I can think of is that the wheel's not seating right, or the lug nuts are bottoming out on the studs, and the wheel's knocking the studs around. LOL But good call on the bottoming out, quite possible, and I never thought of that. And to those who say to have my torque wrench calibrated? Where do I have that done? Do I send it to someone?-Kyle See above, you just need to know it is close, but don't assume at this point. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Not using 1.5m nuts on 1.25m studs by chance are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Couldn't help it.... And no, previous posts show my exact lug nuts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Oh and I figure I might add some additional info on the noise. It only happens when going straight, when I turn, it goes away. And like I said, it was like a tire going flat sound but no vibration in the steering.... -Kyle Edited November 13, 2014 by ferrariowner123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Turning either way or just 1 way? That sounds like a wheel bearing starting to fail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Turning either way, that bearing has been bad for a while now. Think it finally went? But it was fine when I drove it right before the stud issue. Even more puzzling... -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Not unheard of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Well shoot, I knew I should have ordered bearings when I ordered new studs... Alright, I'll put some random Napa brand till I can get some Beck and arnley ones. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 In all reality, most bearings are of a standard quality. You should probably check them before you just go replacing them, it isn't hard at all. If you do need to replace them, just get a set of Timken bearings, races and two rear seals. They are available from Autozone, Rock Auto, Summit Racing, Amazon, etc and there will be no need to swap them out. B Upon looking, Rock Auto has Beck Arnley bearing sets for about $60 for all 4, Timken would be about $40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 I think Timken is better than Beck Arnley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 interesting, well i did just buy a set of "SKF" (Napa) Bearings, but i can still return them if i need to. Which i want to, one side was $76 bucks ! What i am looking for on the bearings, besides the obvious signs of roller failure, and is it hard setting new races? Can i do it with basic hand tools? Thanks for all the help guys, -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 SKF is a quality brand as well, but at $76 for one side, yeah, return them if you can afford to wait. Again, check them first, and you'll need a rear seal if you replace them; the only to remove the old one is destructive. So, wheel bearing... I question if there hasn't been a write up... Jack up the vehicle, one side at a time. Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 O'clock and wiggle it back and forth, do the same at 12 and 6 O'clock. If the wheel bearings are loose, you should feel a little movement, almost like the lug nuts are loose; more play will be felt in the first position due to the steering components. If there is wheel bearing play, you might need to properly set them before the next test applies. Wheel bearings generally fail for 3 reasons: loose and brinelled, tight and overheated and age/corrosion/lack of maintenence. I've had wheel bearings last for over 200k miles, and replaced the ones on my WD21 at 95k miles because they had been neglected. Brinelling is when the bearing race surfaces are not completely smooth any more, either by harmonic load effect or impact. Ok, spin the wheel. Can you feel any grinding or vibration? If you can, the bearings have issues. Clean, repack and tension properly, and spin the wheel. Can you feel any grinding or vibration? If not, great, you just got some more life out of them! If so, replace them, you have no choice... As for installing them, yes it can be done with simple tools. I replaced mine in my driveway and used drifts, deadblows, C-clamps and misc bits of wood/metal to do it. For a novice, I would recommend taking the housings and races to a shop to have them properly pressed in, you can do the rest. I think Timken is better than Beck Arnley. I really don't know if one is better than the other, but I have never had any issue with Timken. From what I understand the bearing world is tightly controled, meaning there are industry specs and then manufacturing specs. Bearing specs either meet/excede the requirements or they can't be used. That said, I know how much material sceince, arc seconds, microns tolerances and surface finish can affect long term function of critical components, so there must be some sort of difference... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Okay, well i didn't read this before ripping her apart, but from the past, i know i had wobble at 9 and 3, so yeah, bearings were "BAD" plus the started whining after i went "off roading" once, same side, speed dependent. But i looked at the bearings, they look, well perfect, honestly. but i noticed something as i was taking the hub assembly apart, the nut i guess you could call it, that holds the whole assembly the spindle and knuckle, it was loose, like easily spun without any real force, now i had to take all of that off before so i could change the wheel studs the first time, and i don't have the tool that correctly torques them down, so i just used, i guess the "german torque spec" logic with that i guess, could that be the cause of all of this? Please note, i am still going to change the bearings, i'm just curious at this point. Also, i have some mobil 1 synthetic grease, does that work with this application? It says wheel bearings as a job it can be used for. i know basic question, but i REALLY don't want to do all of this for a THIRD time... Thanks -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 The Mobil one grease is fine, it's what I used when I repacked the bearing on my hardbody, As to tightening the wheel bearing nut, I follow what the FSM says except for measuring the runout and checking the force with the scale, never had any problems, also if you don't have the tool for the nut you can use a Phillips screwdriver in one of the holes, or use 2 with another screw driver between the two for leverage: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Thats what i have done before, and i didn't have any issues before, and i thought i had done that when i changed the studs. Werid... -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 The way I tighten the bearing lock nut is after I have it all repacked is I tighten it just barely enough and then put the tire on. After that i tighten it just until I can't feel any play. But for new bearings you must follow the procedure in the fsm to seat the races. It also helps to have the tool. You can buy it for about 13 dollars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Yeah, I'm definitely going to buy the tool when I take back the bearings. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 well, i just tried to see if i can get some tinkem bearings from autozone, they only show one bearing, and i think its the outer bearing, but i think its the inner thats bad. So i guess im just going to stick to the napa ones i have, because i really need to get my car back on the road. So unless someone has a solution, im going to go down to napa, get the correct tool i need, and get it done... -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Well, the job is done and I am pleased to report that she is fixed. No more flat tire noises. No more bake pulsing, no more stud troubles. Had new races pressed at this killer shop in Bellevue Washington. They had FIVE mk4 supra's sitting around. Its rare enough to see one, let alone five! Anyway, she's all fixed, need to pay of my credit card so I can keep working on pathy and getting her fixed up right! Thanks again for all your guys help and advice. Don't think it would have been done without your help. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 You are welcome, I'm glad it all worked out fairly easily. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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