RayRay Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I had a transmission leak and leaked nearly all the fluids out and then I fixed the leak and now I dont have second gear, overdrive, or reverse. When I parked it with the leak everything ran fine. What could possibly fix my problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Did you replace the fluid that came out? Check with car running and lever in P. Fluid temp has to at or above 80 centigrade. Level on dipstick show be in the crosshatched 'H' region. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayRay Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Ir has just a lil bit too much. Should I drain a lil bit out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 When you say you had a trans leak and you fixed it, where was it leaking from? The pan gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayRay Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 A hose from the transmission to the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Ok, looking at the transmission repair guide for the RE4R01A (assuming that is your trans) You should have a power shift switch on your dash. Set it to the 'auto' position. The following steps will diagnose what the problem may be. 1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating temp. 2. Turn ignition to 'OFF' position. 3. Set power shift switch to AUTO position. 4. Set overdrive switch 'ON' 5. Select lever to P 6. Turn ignition to 'ON' do not start engine 7. Does power shift indicator lamp light up for about 2 seconds? If yes, continue on. 1. Turn ignition to 'ACC' position. 2. Move lever to D position. 3. Set overdrive switch 'OFF' 4. Turn ignition to 'ON' do not start engine. 5. Wait two seconds after switching to 'ON' position. 6. Move lever to '2' position. 7. Set overdrive switch 'ON' 8. Move lever to '1' position. 9. Set overdrive switch 'OFF' 10. Depress accelerator fully and release. 11. Count the flashes on the power shift lamp. It's a sequence of ten steady flashes. The one you are looking for is a long pause between flashes. So if you get four flashes then a pause before the rest of the sequence, then no.5 is the problem. Listed below is the numbers and what problem they refer to. 1.Revolution sensor circuit is short circuited/disconnected. 2.VSS circuit is short circuited/disconnected 3.Throttle position sensor circuit. 4.Shift solenoid valve A circuit. 5.Shift solenoid valve B circuit. 6.Overrun clutch solenoid valve circuit. 7.Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit. 8.Fluid temp sensor is disconnected/AT control unit damaged. 9.Engine speed signal circuit. 10.Line pressure solenoid valve circuit. Finally, if the light is on continuously from the power shift switch, it means the inhibitor switch, overdrive switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or A/T control unit is damaged. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayRay Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 I tried that and nothing happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmo Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) Terranovation, many thanks for the info I have 9 flashes, and a space followed by one flash. That would mean #10.Line pressure solenoid valve circuit. Does anybody have any experience with this problem showing up as bone jarring 1-2 and 2-3 shifts? Edited October 23, 2014 by Elmo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I don't have the info on me right now but Il be able to find out for you how to check and test that circuit when I get home in 6 hours time lol. It will involve use of checking the plug with a multimeter and test light though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) I just tried this and I got 8 flashes and a long pause before the rest of the sequence. So according to this, I've got a bad Engine speed signal circuit.. Edited April 5, 2015 by gv280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 And we are all in the same boat.... the question is how do you fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elmo Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) And we are all in the same boat.... the question is how do you fix it? Mine shifts into reverse every time as long as it's cold. As soon as the transmission warms up, we have to push the car backwards and hope reverse engages. I think the po cranked up the line pressure to get reverse to engage, which gives us such harsh forward shifts. Somebody suggested that the '95 transmission be replaced with a newer one, but I can't find the post, or remember which year(s) to look for. I know that it was post 2000 to look for, and I think it was for either the 3.3 engine, or the 3.5 The transmission wiring harness has to be extended to reach the newer transmission, which sure beats installing a rebuild kit into this thing. Anybody know which year to look for? Edited April 15, 2015 by Elmo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 2001+ Pathy or Xterra have the heavy-duty transmissions from what I've read, and the 3.5l started in '01 in the Pathfinders, so I assume the heavy duty trans came with the bigger motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 It did but the bell housing is not the same. It probably could be swapped, but less work to just get one one from an X, or Frontier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailone32003 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Anyone know how to trouble shoot aShuft solenoid B circuit and where exactly it is located? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 The AT section of the FSM has you covered: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now