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ferrariowner123

So my clutch is going, Tell me the RIGHT way to change it.

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So im fairly certain my clutch is going, i just hit 140,000 miles and i can feel the car jerking around, which i assume is clutch slip.

 

So i need to start collecting parts to get this job done. I think i'm going to the exhaust at the same time, since a good portion of it needs to come off anyway.

 

So, tell me what all needs to be done, i cant say I've ever done a clutch before, but i don't think it will be too bad.

 

From what i know, ill need to drop the transfer and transmission (Duh), ill change some leaky seals while that's out.

 

Offtourroadie did his not too long ago, i think ill ask how his is working, heard decent things about center force, so im confident that it will work.

 

I need to have the flywheel resurfaced. When my buddy had his e30's flywheel done, he did the work of finding a shop, so that done.

 

I also need to change the flywheel bolts, depending on how much stock ones are, i may go with ARP.

 

Do i need to replace the throw out bearing? i'm assuming yes.

 

Is there anything else i have missed?

 

-Kyle

 

 

Edited by ferrariowner123

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Clutch slip shouldn't be jerking you around, pun intended. Maybe surges, RPM increases or chatter. I knew my clutch was going when I did some power acceleration up a hill and 3rd or 4th gear slipped and engaged much slower.

 

Tranny is big and heavy. Have a friend handy when you pull it loose, and I highly recommend a tranny jack or at least jack adapter.

Might want to consider doing the rear main seal at the same time.

Flywheel bolts are single use? :unsure:

Yes, always change the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing at the same time, unless you like pulling trannys...

 

Take your time, keep organized and safe. You have to get the vehicle suspended pretty high to unbolt the tranny, lower it and slide it back so make sure you have plenty of good, tall jack stands and supports.

Also, buy a clutch plate alignment tool, it is worth the few dollars...

 

B

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very interested in this too, being the new owner of a 5 speed. Any pedal adjustments, mine is all the way to the floor?

 

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You should also replace the pilot bushing. You need to inspect the flywheel for cracks. Any over a inch, the flywheel should be replaced, not just resurfaced. Usually what I do when im in there, is a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing and a rear main seal. Your going to want to clean the bellhousing of all the clutch dust and debris. Pop off the shift fork, clean and lube the pivot stud. Luckily on the R50, there are no torsion bars to drop, but yes, as B said, it is very heavy. So be careful!

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Clutch slip shouldn't be jerking you around, pun intended. Maybe surges, RPM increases or chatter. I knew my clutch was going when I did some power acceleration up a hill and 3rd or 4th gear slipped and engaged much slower.

 

Tranny is big and heavy. Have a friend handy when you pull it loose, and I highly recommend a tranny jack or at least jack adapter.

Might want to consider doing the rear main seal at the same time.

Flywheel bolts are single use? :unsure:

Yes, always change the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing at the same time, unless you like pulling trannys...

 

Take your time, keep organized and safe. You have to get the vehicle suspended pretty high to unbolt the tranny, lower it and slide it back so make sure you have plenty of good, tall jack stands and supports.

Also, buy a clutch plate alignment tool, it is worth the few dollars...

 

B

 

Well, i don't think i'm explaining right, what happens is when i change (sometimes) i feel my body sort of lean forward as its use to the "acceleration" and it seems like the car catches back up and everything feels like normal, i'm no expert, but that feels and sounds like clutch slip. Plus my shifts have been HORRIBLE recently, like really jerky (like when i first started to drive a stick). Its not every now and again, its frequently, which i don't think is me, because i take pride in my shifting and try to be smooth at all times.

 

And yes, definitely going to be calling in some help to get the trans out and back in. Tranny jack doesn't seem like worth while purchase at the moment, so ill see if i can get an adapter, that's the route ill go. But i want to change some seals on my transfer and trans as its got some leaks coming from somewhere, looks like VSS area.

 

No, i'm dreading doing this job, i DO NOT want to do it for another 140k at least, lol

 

Any ideas on where to get an alignment tool? i assumed it came with the clutch, but i'm guessing not?

 

Thanks for the help

 

-Kyle

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Generally the alignment tool comes with the clutch kit. If not I would try your local part stores.

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Yeah, I went on rockauto and found a Sachs kit for a decent price. After seeing the one offtour bought was $450! Ouch, but he hauls stuff, I have no intent of doing that. I've heard good things about Sachs, does everyone agree with that?

 

-Kyle

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Jerky and rough... sounds like a hydraulic issue. A bad clutch usually slips (engine revs but no forward motion) or chatters really bad on engagement. Maybe that's what your talking about? A failing master or slave cylinder can change the engagement point of the clutch or not allow the clutch to fully disengage when you push the pedal causing grinding and hard shifter action.

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It also appears as that i have some other leaks to deal with, i just want to get a second opinion from you guys.

 

This looks like its the transfer fill nut, so im going to order some of that, any suggestions on making a gasket? I talked to Rob and he said plumbers tape should be fine.

 

15335155780_d492e7c1c5_c.jpg

And this one looks like its come from some kind of linkage, its really confusing, i want to fix whatever it is thats leaking, but i can find any gaskets that seal it, see my next pic. (arrow points toward front of car)

15335198429_1985f59e4e_b.jpg

 

??

15335462098_835c7f3c23_b.jpg

 

 

15335462098_835c7f3c23_b.jpg

 

This is just the Left side! :lmao:

 

I've got more leaks on the right side

 

This, well i have no idea what it is, it could be either the trans neutral switch or the reverse light switch not too sure. (bottom of picture is front), do these go bad like the oil pressure switch i changed not too long ago?

15335383818_8b77feb45b_b.jpg

 

This one i believe to be the transfer neutral safety switch, not actually sure its leaking, it could be run off from the other switch, not really sure.

 

15335143439_6ea7c99632_b.jpg

 

This is them in a diagram,

 

15335174749_1f7279afca_b.jpg

 

Would be super helpful is to find some pictures of a VG 4WD transmission and transfer pictures with it outside of the car. So i can visualize what the heck is going on, up on top of the transmission.

 

HEY LOOK AT THAT

15335727717_1e9835805f_b.jpg

 

Thank you eBay. I think number 1 is the 4WD switch and 2 is the transfer neutral safety switch.

 

Also, where the heck is the Vehicle Speed Sensor? i cant find that anywhere!

 

I also found a how to on how to remove a trans from a 94 pathfinder, are they close enough to be of some use?

 

http://beergarage.com/PathTransmission1Remove.aspx

 

-Kyle

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You should also replace the pilot bushing. You need to inspect the flywheel for cracks. Any over a inch, the flywheel should be replaced, not just resurfaced. Usually what I do when im in there, is a new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing and a rear main seal. Your going to want to clean the bellhousing of all the clutch dust and debris. Pop off the shift fork, clean and lube the pivot stud. Luckily on the R50, there are no torsion bars to drop, but yes, as B said, it is very heavy. So be careful!

 

 

All of this.

 

I like to replace the flywheel bolts because they are torqued on fairly tight, like 108 ft lbs.

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Jerky and rough... sounds like a hydraulic issue. A bad clutch usually slips (engine revs but no forward motion) or chatters really bad on engagement. Maybe that's what your talking about? A failing master or slave cylinder can change the engagement point of the clutch or not allow the clutch to fully disengage when you push the pedal causing grinding and hard shifter action.

 

Okay so maybe that better describes whats going on, i recently changed my fluid because it was DARK!

 

I thought i was hydraulics too, the slave was squeaking REALLY bad, so i ordered a rebuild for it, do you think that might be it and my clutch seriously has life left?

 

-Kyle

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All of this.

 

I like to replace the flywheel bolts because they are torqued on fairly tight, like 108 ft lbs.

 

Thats what i figured is because due to them stretching during the first torquing process you don't want to reuse them, same with head studs right?

 

Think you could also shine some light on my leaks? I remember you telling me about how the switches with fail right through the middle, at least in the context of the oil pressure switch for the idiot light system. Is that true for some of these 4WD and reverse lights?

 

-Kyle

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15335155780_d492e7c1c5_c.jpg

 

 

The red fluid you see collecting here is AT fluid from the transfer case. In this pic it looks like it is leaking down from the fill plug and collecting/pooling on the bolt.

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15335143439_6ea7c99632_b.jpg

 

 

 

In this pic it appears the leak is coming from the neutral switch.

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15335727717_1e9835805f_b.jpg

 

 

Also, where the heck is the Vehicle Speed Sensor? i cant find that anywhere!

 

It is the round black sensor about two iches to the left of the red #1. It has a wire lead coming off the top of it. In this picture the wire has been cut.

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All leaks easily cured with a dab or silicone on the threads.

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Thanks for the help guys. I think going to try and get the clutch hydro's sorted before I start pulling Transmissions. But seeing as the clutch is 140k old, and gone through the slippage from the bad hydraulics, I think I'm going to start collecting parts to change it at some point.

 

-Kyle

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