oscarpdx Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Hello im new to this forum found some helpful tips so far. I replaced both my cv axles yesterday along with the brake pads, upper & lower balljoints, tie rod ends, and some wheel seals. I also put on some warn premium manual hubs. All was pretty simple except when it came to the wheel bearings. I checked for play before taking it apart while it was jacked upand had none so i figured the bearing were ok. So now that i have it all together there is a lil bit of play in the passanger side. I replaced the drivers side inner seal since i damaged it. One problem there when i put the seal in is the seal suppose to hold the bearing down or is there suppose to be some space in between the seal and inner bearing? Or should i have set the bearing in the race before putting the seal on? On the passanger side i just repacked the outer bearing and added grease to the inner and this one had space between the seal and inner bearing. So im a lil lost on how it should go on. I didnt have the locknut socket so i used the 2 screwdrivers and another big one to screw it on. Tightened it and back off a lil and checked for play, had none or so i thought. I found the socket at napa incase i need it later. So now i have it how it is and i drove it around for like half an hr in the city and i remembered that to check the hubs if they get warm wich could indicate a bad bearing. The drivers side is a little warm like hold it for 5 seconds before it starys to burn ur hand. the passanger side is a little hotter. Is this normal? Could it be becuase i have new brake pads? Maybe i didnt set the bearings correctly? Any help would be apreciated sorry for crappy write up, did it during my lunch brake while eating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 It sounds to me like the bearing may be a teensy bit tight. I would take the hubs off and check that you can spin them hubs easily in both directions, re-set the bearing tension to 0.0 lbs torque with no noticeable slack and you should be good unless there is something else binding somewhere. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarpdx Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 @SpecialWarr i think u were correct. Reset the bearings and upon taking apart they did feel a little tight. Drove it around for 20-30min and didnt feel hot just warmish if even. Thank you for the reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 The bearings are supposed to be slightly preloaded, but not much. The proceedure is in the FSM which is downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Use the 1994 version, it will be the same for your truck on most things, including this. For the part that they talk about using a spring gauge to check rotational drag, you can just suspend a weight vertically from one of the studs to get the same effect. I have hand sledge that works perfectly... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarpdx Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Alrighty so i went to repack the bearings a third time. I didnt tho because during the process i notice the brakes were a little bit pressed against the rotor. When i spin the passanger side while its jacked up i notice it doesnt spin as long as the drivers side with the wheels on. The old brake pads on the passanger side where i have the heat problem are way more worn then the drivers old pads. So i changed the caliper pins, new boots also and cleaned the bracket. Still had heat and was sticking so i changed the whole caliper. Still sticking. I have changed the brake line to that side 6 months ago do to a leak, and the master brake cylinder 5 months ago because it was leaking from the seal. Now im a little lost again. I know the bearings are set correctly. What else could it be that is cuasing this? Also when i brake it jerks to the right side as well a little. Thought it might have been cuase i have play in my stearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Jerking to the right suggests the brake pressure is uneven between the right and left sides. It does sound like a dragging brake. Maybe there's something wrong in the hard line? Someone who knows more about brakes should chime in here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 If you have air in the lines, it can cause a mild drag when the pedal is released but I assume you bled it. Did you bleed the entire systenm or just the front or one side? B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarpdx Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 @Precise1 i bled the entire system a couple times checked the all the lines and they seem to be ok. No leaks or expansions or bends Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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