Will a frame from a different year work?

[Nename]

I am just looking into different options right now. I have a 93 XE that has been rear ended and the frame in front of the bumper was bent down and is now rusted out. I was hit so hard that the hitch assembly busted almost in half. I also have rust from just behind the rear suspension.

 

The body shop I went into said if I can find a frame they would swap it out.

 

Are any of the frames from other years able to be used?

 

I know boxing in the frame is an option for behind the suspension but would hacking off the frame before the bend and welding in something else work well?

 

I am just trying to find the most cost effective way to remedy this.

 

Here are some pics:

 

 

 

 

 

[Precise1]

There are several threads here about 'rebuilding' the frames and some people have done a lot of work; IIRC you can even buy precut patch pieces.

I'm sorry, I have no experience with it though, so I can only recommend searching for the threads.

 

As for frame sections, anything WD21 4 door, IE 1990-1995 should be an acceptable donor.

 

B

[RedPath88]

I am just a little confused as to why the "body shop" could not tell you the answer to that question, I mean, shouldn't they have or at least have access to the specs/drawings?

 

Well anyway, here are the drawings from a 1989 FSM (2DR Model), print them out along with pages BF-68-71 in the 1994 FSM (4DR Model) found HERE and take them down to the "body shop" and have them look it over. Not sure if they would need more info, but it should be enough for them to tell you.

 

As mentioned above anything from a 4DR PATHFINDER should work, comparing these drawings may open the search up to 2DR models as well... or may tell you to stay away Earlier would probably be better to an apparent change in the allow used, that made later models more prone to rusting out. I "want" to say that change was in '93, but I don't know for sure.

 

One thing that should be noted is that the bolt threads between 2 and 4 door models are different at the rear body mounts (I those are the only two) Anyone who has one a body life on a 4DR can confirm this.

 

 

[k9sar]

I see nothing wrong with that frame.

[Nefarious]

I would swap the frame personally of you plan to keep the vehicle. Any frame 90-95 will works but 90-92 are the best as they have powder coated frames instead of painted frames and hold up much better over time (generally). It's amazing how the powder coat keeps the frames in good condition. My 93 has frame rot, my 92 is almost completely immaculate underneath

[Nename]

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

I searched the forums and saw a lot about frame repair but nothing about swapping a frame or compatible years. I was hoping to just swap out the frame (if I can find one) since I plan on keeping this for a long time. The shop said it would be $4500 for them to get a frame IF they can find one, plus $1500 to actually swap the frame.

 

I live in a fairly small town (8000 people) and its a small shop. I'm not surprised they did not have a lot of info on it honestly. If I decided to drive 35 miles, I probably would have had better luck on info from a shop. Might do that this Saturday (also to see about a cheaper quote) and also hit some junkyards in the morning to see what they have. I have called a couple yards but they only have 97 and up pathys.

 

I also plan on doing a 2-3 inch body lift on it as well if I can find a frame to swap.

 

Anyway. thanks for the replies. This gives me some info to work with at least.

[Pav]

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

I searched the forums and saw a lot about frame repair but nothing about swapping a frame or compatible years. I was hoping to just swap out the frame (if I can find one) since I plan on keeping this for a long time. The shop said it would be $4500 for them to get a frame IF they can find one, plus $1500 to actually swap the frame.

 

I live in a fairly small town (8000 people) and its a small shop. I'm not surprised they did not have a lot of info on it honestly. If I decided to drive 35 miles, I probably would have had better luck on info from a shop. Might do that this Saturday (also to see about a cheaper quote) and also hit some junkyards in the morning to see what they have. I have called a couple yards but they only have 97 and up pathys.

 

I also plan on doing a 2-3 inch body lift on it as well if I can find a frame to swap.

 

Anyway. thanks for the replies. This gives me some info to work with at least.

I think your answer is to find a new truck and this one becomes your parts bin. The numbers just don't make sense and you are close to Texas and New Mexico which should be good markets to find a nice replacement.

[SkiBumBrian]

Totally agree with Pav. You have some fairly extensive body damage too, it would make more sense to find another truck and make the best out of 2....

[Nefarious]

I would have to agree on this one as well. Hense why i said IF you want to keep the truck, 90-92 are better. But unless u find a steal of a deal on the frame and get a reduction in labour costs , you may as well just try and locate a new donor vehicle. Even one with engine or transmission problems as you have a good power plant now and an engine or transmission swap would be a lot cheaper since you already have everything you would need.

[Nename]

Yeah I need to find a way to get a cut on the labor. I can get a frame for 400-500 plus gas to go get it. Its about 200 miles away. Which I don't think is a bad price for a frame.

Edited September 10, 2014 by Nename

[Nename]

If I go this route, I'll be purchasing the frame repair kit for the rear and getting it welded on as well. That way I don't have to worry about it for a while. Hopefully.

[Slartibartfast]

If you get a good frame, don't bother with the patch kit. If anything the sandwiched metal would just give water/mud a place to collect and cover the cleaning holes. The price you found doesn't sound bad at all if it's solid. The yard my dad talked to wanted $400 for just the back half of a frame.

 

I saw a thread on here a while back where a guy did a body swap with what looked like ratchet straps and some kind of wood A-frame in his backyard, which seemed to work alright for him. Jack it up, hang the body, undo the mounts, drop the chassis, roll the chassis out, transfer the suspension/drivetrain to the new frame, fit the lift blocks, roll the Frankenstein chassis back under, what could go wrong?

 

It does look like you've got a fair bit of body damage at the back. Probably good to take a close look at that and see if the body mounts are tweaked, make sure the doors line up, and check for rust under the rear seats and in the driver's foot well to make sure the body's worth the trouble.

If you decide to go for it, I'd love to see the project thread. My frame's got some life in it yet, but the more I look at it, the more soft spots I find, and my welding's not good enough that I'd trust a patch job for towing.

 

(Thanks Nefarious for the powder coat info!)

Edited September 10, 2014 by Slartibartfast

[adamzan]

There is a thread on here where a guy swapped a two door frame onto his 4 door body.

[Nename]

I'm going to go to the big city probably tomorrow and check some shops to see what they say price wise for the swap. I have a relative I can talk to who might know someone as well.

 

I don't have anywhere I can do the swap myself right now or that would be the way I'd go.

 

The only problem is with the drivers side back door. It closes if you kinda slam it and it takes a few times of pulling the handle to unlatch. Looks about an eighth to quarter inch off or so. Everything else is fine. Even the rear gate opens, closes, and seals fine from what I can tell.

 

I'll keep looking into things and post it here. Thanks for all the info everyone.

[RedPath88]

All things considered, if it were me in the same situation as you are now I would start looking for another truck and using yours for parts... but that is just me.