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New Guy In Dallas, TX That Needs All The Help He Can Get


AirChime
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Hey all.

 

Friday, my beloved Ford F-150 was totaled in an accident. My bruises are friggin sweet!

Anyways, my job is as a railcar broker. I buy and sell railroad equipment on behalf of other companies. I need a dependable vehicle that has 4WD, and can haul my gear (safey equipment, traumatic first aid, guns and ammo, etc.

I have never owned an SUV, nor have I ever owned a Nissan. However after looking for a used SUV, either Nissan or Toyota, I found a vehicle that I like. Its a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE (according to VIN), in three different databases, its not listed as ever being stolen or totaled. Here is the following info from the CL ad:

 

Odometer: 112,000

VIN: JN8DR09Y14W917374

Color: Green

Drive: 4WD

Transmission: Automatic

Title: Clean

Cylinders: 6

 

Yesterday I went to look at the vehicle. It was warm because someone else had looked at it a couple hours before I did, and they started it and ran it a while. It started strong, and stayed strong. The only thing mechanically that I could see it needing was a new belt. However the check engine light came on. That's obviously a concern. The person selling the vehicle for her brother agreed to follow me to Autozone to have the codes run. Only one code popped up, but I misplaced the ticket. I rememeber I was given 4 options, and from most likely to least likely it was; Vacuum Leak, Fuel Leak, Emmisions Leak, or Catalytic Converter. The last one has put some fear into me. However there is a Nissan dealership close by, and I called to find out how much a diagnostic is, and if its a CC failure, what that runs. I should hear back later this morning.

Anyways, the owner says she'll take $5K. I think that might be a bit steep considering the possible issues, and I have remained completely non-committal.

The exterior is another issue, the paint is garbage. This is what happens when people leave their vehicles in the Texas sun and dont wash or protect them in anyway. Not that its that big a deal, I am going to paint it with Aervoe anyways. I may even T-Pok Nor (or however you spell it) the entire exterior first.

What should I do? Run away? Have it checked out by a dealer?

 

Here's some pics


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One thing to look at is rust. Look behind the front springs in the wheel well. There is a recall for that.

However if you can take the truck to Alkorahil dealership I would. He is very knowledgeable on all types of Nissan. Plus if you do pick one up he the defacto guy to call for parts.

 

Sent from my Moto X

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One thing to look at is rust. Look behind the front springs in the wheel well. There is a recall for that.

However if you can take the truck to Alkorahil dealership I would. He is very knowledgeable on all types of Nissan. Plus if you do pick one up he the defacto guy to call for parts.

 

Sent from my Moto X

 

Nice of you to say! :)

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Hey folks, thanks for taking the time.

 

I split the cost of a diagnostic with the owner at Courtesy Nissan. Here's what was uncovered:

Bank 2 Catalytic Converter is out of commission. They want $1300+ to replace, parts and labor. This is the cause for the CEL.

 

Also, while up on the rack, they found that all four rear lateral links are broken, and need to be replaced. This is estimated to cost &850+

 

They said it needs an alignment for $200.

 

They also said it needs a new right inner CV joint, because said CV joint's boot is torn.

 

Also recommended work was a battery cleanup ($35), and a front and rear differential service ($400 total).

 

All total, to replace everything with Nissan factory parts, its $3183.14

 

 

A mechanic I have used in the past offered an estimate, and here it is:

 

To replace the catalytic converter it would be $1010

 

All rear lateral links would be $695

 

Replace right inner CV joint with new right axle $250

 

Free alignment

 

Front and rear differential would be $200

 

Total would be $2160 using all new Nissan parts, though he did say he would give me a bundle price that would knock another one or two hundred off.

 

 

Just out of curiosity, I spoke with Firestone.

 

They offered to do a catalytic converter for $798.25. However at that price the catalytic converter would be a NAPA part.

 

 

 

Please,I'd like to hear your thought (alkorahil, I sent you an email last week)

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I apologize for not introducing myself.

 

My name is Brian, and I work for a company called Coastline Rail. I buy and sell railroad equipment on behalf of others. Need a locomotive, I can get you one. Want a caboose, I have those too.

 

Anyways, sometimes my job takes me down Maintenance of Way roads. These are usually noting more than paths that run parallel to railroad tracks. They are rough riding, and sometimes my 2WD truck had "issues", though it never let me down. Other times I will have to go into railyards. Most railyards have decent paths, but some are brutal, and have crossings that are tough. I also need it to haul my equipment around. Oh, and I shoot, a lot, and need to haul a bunch of guns and ammo.

 

While I was laying in bed with cracked ribs, sternum and clavicle (and a purdy smile) I decided I wanted something 4WD, and either another truck or an SUV. I have no real brand loyalty, but I do have brands I wont consider (GM, Dodge, etc). I saw the Pathfinder mentioned above. Now the owner knows the deficiencies, and she even said she wont get what she wants for it. She mentioned she was offered $3,000, but she turned it down (they want $5,300). I am thinking that I may offer $3000 as well to see if they take, now that they know there are some serious mechanical deficiencies. What do y'all think?

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wow, uhh...Nice intro...sorry to hear you are all banged up. Hope you can heal up and get back to work soon. Regarding this Pathfinder you've stumbled across...you can do better...waay better, I'd keep looking if I were you. There are some pretty good deals on some WD21s and early R50s here in Houston if you don't mind the trip, you really might wanna take a gander at Houston Craigs List. I've run across several deals I'd consider if I were looking, on both sides of the generation divide. For instance:

 

(Holy crap dude!) http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4657927519.html

 

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4581474002.html

 

I'd jump at both of these, atleast worth a hard look anyway.

 

Cool job man, I think locomotives are interesting as hell too. You don't get to hear from very many railmen from the train culture. I think it's pretty amazing that all of those millions of tons of weight are being pulled around by giant direct current batteries and electric motors, score one for the geeky underdogs, right?

 

Nice to have another Texan on board!

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Well, depends on how much you are interested in a Nissan Pathfinder. The prices quoted are a bit steep in my opinion. Can you list the code that they said is popped? That is saying the cat is for sure bad? May eliminate some costs up front with help from here.

 

Second, are you at all mechanically capable? I ask, because the rear links. Can be had for around $50 each on Amazon or RockAuto.com. With a impact can be changed out in a afternoon in your driveway. Which are a common these as age and miles are not kind to rubber bushings. So, just with those. You go from the lowest quote of $695 to probably $250 at most with tax/shipping.

 

As for the other services, you can clean your battery with coke and a dollar store toothbrush. Not $35...

Alignment for $200? I guess that depends on local market area. Where I am, a lifetime from TireKingdom/PepBoys etc is usually $79-99

Changing the gear oil in the front and rear diffs is very easy to do. If you can change your own oil. You can do that also, just a lot easier with a el cheapo oil transfer pump. Maybe $50 max if you went with all Mobil gear oil.

As for the CV boots. Again, can be done in your driveway. However, if easier to rebuild by mechanic. I would go that route. You can get all new CV boots from Rockford CV for about $85 to your door. They are better than OEM and the kits includes grease and clamps. At most you'd have to cover labor to rebuild them. This can also be done in your driveway.

 

Honestly, if you can do most of this yourself, and you like that particular Pathfinder, finally able to get it for $3k? If thats a fair price for area, go for it.

However, if there are better for the money. By all means go for it. If you pick up a Pathfinder we're here to help.

 

Rebelord

 

PS, try calling Alkorahil (Rob).

Edited by Rebelord
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gv280z,

 

I dont actually work for a railroad..... yyyyet. I just sell railroads equipment they need and dispose of equipment they dont need.

 

Most locomotives use a diesel engine that works a main generator. The main generator is what provides power to the traction motors. There is one motor per axle, with a few exceptions (which I wont get into unless you need a bed time story!). The bateries on most locomotives are there to startup the locomotive.

 

There is a battery powered locomotive called a "Green Goat". They were tested out here in Texas about 5 years ago, in both the DFW and Houston areas. Unfortunately they get hot, and in the Texas heat, a few managed to burst into flames.


Anyways....

 

As for going down to Houston, I dunno. Thats a helluva drive, in my present condition, to look at a vehicle I might not buy. But I'll look around.

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Rebelord,

 

I am OK, one the best'est of best days. I dont have much in tools anymore, most were swiped.

 

As for the battery, its old, so I would've replaced it anyways. I aint giving somebody $35 to clean a battery!

 

I agree on the alignment. My mechanic offered it to me for free if I paid him to do the other suspension services. But I see what you are getting at.

 

As for the CV joints, nuh-uh.

 

 

 

I am starting to think this vehicle is more of a problem than I am willing to deal with.

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^^^^ None that I know of. But I would re read the codes to make sure its a catalytic converter.

 

As far as issues. Honestly, thats the same thing most of us have done by 150k. The rear links, the bushing wear out, that rubber will last about 150k. Maybe push to 200k, garage kept barely driven etc.

The CV boots, stock they hardly tear unless brittle from age. Most of us, have torn them because we lifted our pathy's, which push the CV angle, off road which will full droop them etc. But something we have had to do. You'd freak if you see mine currently! Ha

We do have quite a bit of members in Texas. That if needed could probably help you out. Heck, if you were in Miami. Bring it buy, I have a driveway we can use.

 

However, it all comes down to price. Now, knowing that you CAN do this for less. Still use the quotes to bargain down. You're saying possibly $3k..see if she'll take 2500 just to get rid of it? $2500 for it, and if the strut housings are in good shape. Then sounds like a good deal. Again, we havent seen pictures of the interior.

 

PS, also take in to account the struts and shocks. When were they last changed? Even more bargaining tools. Some people have shop do them, a lot of us have done them ourselves because we usually put on lift springs same time.

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Sorry I forgot to give the code.

 

Autozone's code was P0430. Apparently Courtesty Nissan confirmed it, according to the paperwork.

 

 

Yeah, I may not be the most savvy person when it comes to working on cars, but I have been known to learn things! I offered the owner $3000, which I doubt they will take, but if they do, I will buy it.

 

It would be awesome to link up with some DFW area members that are willing to take the time and show me how to do....things.

 

 

 

 

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http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4654215460.html

 

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/4636563092.html

 

 

 

Thoughts?

 

BTW, Mods, if this thread is getting off topic for this particular forum or if you feel its now more apropriate elsewhere, please feel free to move it

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Hey folks, thanks for taking the time.

 

I split the cost of a diagnostic with the owner at Courtesy Nissan. Here's what was uncovered:

 

Bank 2 Catalytic Converter is out of commission. They want $1300+ to replace, parts and labor. This is the cause for the CEL.

 

Also, while up on the rack, they found that all four rear lateral links are broken, and need to be replaced. This is estimated to cost &850+

 

They said it needs an alignment for $200.

 

They also said it needs a new right inner CV joint, because said CV joint's boot is torn.

 

Also recommended work was a battery cleanup ($35), and a front and rear differential service ($400 total).

 

All total, to replace everything with Nissan factory parts, its $3183.14

 

 

A mechanic I have used in the past offered an estimate, and here it is:

 

To replace the catalytic converter it would be $1010

 

All rear lateral links would be $695

 

Replace right inner CV joint with new right axle $250

 

Free alignment

 

Front and rear differential would be $200

 

Total would be $2160 using all new Nissan parts, though he did say he would give me a bundle price that would knock another one or two hundred off.

 

 

Just out of curiosity, I spoke with Firestone.

 

They offered to do a catalytic converter for $798.25. However at that price the catalytic converter would be a NAPA part.

 

 

 

Please,I'd like to hear your thought (alkorahil, I sent you an email last week)

 

 

Hello there, jsut saw this.

IMHO it seems like it needs a lot of work. Nothing on the list is completely out of place for an R50 that age.

But IMHO For the same amount of $$ you can find one that needs less work to start with. Those part prices they quoted you are full MSRP.

The diff service is a good idea and should be done, but it not critical to do immediately.

The catalytic converter and rear links are a necessity. I am not a big fan of aftermarkt catalytic converters on the OBDII vehicles as they just dont seem to last as long as the OEM. But the OEM can get very pricy. Again IMHO.

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OK, I drove the other 2004 Pathfinder SE I posted about. It runs well, makes no concerning noises. I couldnt find any leaks or problem spots. It will need new brakes soon.

 

One thing that concerned me was the shifter for 2wd, 4wh, n, 4wl. When I shifted that, it got stuck in 4wd, and wouldnt return to 2wd. Owner asked a mechanic to come out, after I left. Called me and told me that when you return it to 2wd you have to put it in reverse instead of neutral, or something like that. Does that make sense to you?

 

I have never had a selectable drive so I dont know whats up.

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Ok. 2H to 4H you can be in drive and moving. It may take a sec for the light to go out from 4wd to 2H. From 4H to 4L. Transmission needs to be neutral to get to 4L and to go from 4L to 4H. These transfer cases do grind a lil going to 4L btw.

 

Sent from my Moto X

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I got him to knock the price down from $4400 + TTL to $4200 OTD.

 

Body has some minor issues. He detailed the car, and unfortunately the engine so there is no way of telling if it has leaks.

 

Something that disappointed me was that the owner has it listed as "For Sale - Owner" on CL, but its actually a small time dealership.


Anybody know of any Pathfinder experts in Ft Worth that would want to meet me at the lot to take a look at this? I'll treat them to lunch somewhere and watch the Cowboys, or something.

 

Edited by AirChime
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