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Starter. Relay. Alarm. Front shocks. Am i stupid?


troutfinder
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Hi all, i have a few questions about starting issues..... first of all i replaced front shocks (the ones with comfort/sport switch) and had to cut wires from drivers as would not pull out of harness. Would this create any electrical short? Also my alarm light on center console has continuous blink...what causes this and how do i disconnect or remedy? Also have starting issues...battery was just replaced, have power but wont turn over. Hear one click when turning key. Wont boost start, havent tried tapping starter...not sure if starter relay is blue one on passenger side behind battery> :blush: Any help or insight would be appreciated greatly.

 

I have read a bit on here but seems as though starter relays are in different places on these? Also looks like my starter and solenoid are covered in oil from changes.

 

Thanks in advance

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First things first. I have replaced my front shocks on my 1995 wd21 se-v6. The cutting of the wires havent caused a short in 15k miles so it shouldnt be a problem. And for the starter does the dash board light up when you turn the key for ignition. If no. Then you should check the blue relay 2nd one from the left in the driver side fuse box. Ot should be next to a brown relay. Pull that relay and test it. If it doesnt work then head down to your local salavage yard and pick up another relay. Hope this helps.

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Dash lights up, Everything works electronically from dash, but go to fire up and it clicks once....... 12V showing on battery. Cleaning contacts, ready to pull starter...hopefully. Pulling out oiil filter and remove skid pate? ( 4 of 6 self tapping bolts snapped) Is it me or is the Japanese Engineering great until they put oil filter above starter?

 

Am i almost there or do i have to dimantle the front end to get starter out?

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Have you checked all your fuses? You may have blown one when cutting wires or changing the battery. Is the battery fully charged? It might read 12volts, but can't deliver the load the starter requires to turn it over.

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After the skid plate and the oil filter is off, you can snake the starter through the front of the truck. Be sure to unplug the oil pressure sending unit wire as that is part of the harness running the the starter. Just pinch and pull. After that, and you remove the harness adele clamps (there are two) you can wiggle the starter out with the harness attached which I found way easier than trying to unhook while installed. Its a tight fit but itll come, took me 10 minutes of holding my tongue at just the right angle.

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After the skid plate and the oil filter is off, you can snake the starter through the front of the truck. Be sure to unplug the oil pressure sending unit wire as that is part of the harness running the the starter. Just pinch and pull. After that, and you remove the harness adele clamps (there are two) you can wiggle the starter out with the harness attached which I found way easier than trying to unhook while installed. Its a tight fit but itll come, took me 10 minutes of holding my tongue at just the right angle.

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Starter is out. Was a shyte load easier than i expected. How do i bench test to see if it is any good? I know i need booster cables and a 12v battery, but is there any pics around here showing how its done? Do i need a jumper wire or can i use (if i need to use) a screw driver?

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took Starter to local Auto parts store to have bench tested and it spun but the guy figured it has a short somewhere. He figured it seemed loud as well. I know pretty much squat about these things, is there anything i can do to salvage it besides just cleaning etc?

 

I would also like to test main power cable to starter ( there are 3 different wires including main to starter. One is in a red rubber casing and other clips to solenoid). How do i go about seeing i have power to starter?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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Test from the large power cable that bolts to the starter to negative terminal or any other ground point on the vehicle. Have someone crank the car to start and test for 12 v at that fat wire. If you get 12v there but no starter engagement then you have a problem with starter. If you test for 12v at the fat wire to alternator and u don't get 12v there, then u have a relay, wiring, or switch issue somewhere

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Went to a local shop to have Starter looked at before i order a new one, found the brushes to be worn. Ordered a new Brush assembly from Nissan for $45, and told them to keep the Relay they ordered for me (relay for 300ZX).

 

Reman. Starter at local shop Approx. $150

Reman. Starter from Nissan $400

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Ive done some more reading and realized the relay i ordered does go on my truck #2523089981. Its the large one by the battery....i actually dont have one originally, i have a small one in its place. Is there another place the starter relay would be?

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Only the manual trans versions have a starter relay. If you have an auto trans, then there is no starter relay. I have an auto and when my 3rd starter quit less than a week after I installed it, I added a common 30A relay into the starter circuit and have no had a starter problem since other than the dead batteries my poor truck makes for some odd reason.

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Only the manual trans versions have a starter relay. If you have an auto trans, then there is no starter relay. I have an auto and when my 3rd starter quit less than a week after I installed it, I added a common 30A relay into the starter circuit and have no had a starter problem since other than the dead batteries my poor truck makes for some odd reason.

It is a manual transmission. The relay Nissan ordered is quite large compared to all other relays under hood and in fuse boxes.

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I guess its the Interlock relay i have. Why would i not have a starter relay, or where would it be located? I have jumpered the relay and it seems ok (clicks), and still waiting for Starter brush assembly from Nissan.

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I'm not sure about the manual WD21 but my D21 pickup with a manual transmission has a clutch switch that malfunctioned because the rubber pad that activates the switch when the clutch pedal is floored has deteriorated. The symptoms are the same as yours. I ordered a replacement pad from Nissan but it was not the same size (the stud in the middle is too big) so I just taped a rubber cushion in its place.

 

I also wonder about that alarm light that is continuously blinking. If the alarm is somehow active and it has starter-kill, it might be what's causing your no-start.

Edited by damuho
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It's super simple to delete the clutch interlock relay. Just jumper it out with heavy gauge wire and tape it up. We did that to Kats truck and no issues since. Canadian pathfinders aren't even supposed to have clutch interlock, I don't know why they put it in American trucks. It's annoying !

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