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When to say goodbye-- 1999.5 SE 3.3L 4WD w 158K miles


EvF
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Hello,

 

I have loved my Pathfinder since the day I bought it new. Now I am looking at a lot of repairs/ maintenance ~$3500 and was told by an independent mechanic he wouldn't put the money into it since the exhaust manifolds tend to go at around 165,000 miles. Plus, was just reading the threads about the rust issue. I asked both the dealer and the independent mechanic if I should junk it because of rust and both said no. I live in Lincoln, Nebraska and we get salt on the roads here.

 

This is what I have been told I need:

1. Both Valve cover gaskets are leaking approx cost to fix: $385 but the NIssan Service Mgr. said he didn't know what other problems they would find once they were "in there."

2. Replace Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and PCV valve approx. $300

3. Replace front struts approx.$780 at dealer, $925 at independent mechanic

4. Replace rear shocks $316 at dealer, $330 at independent mechanic

5. Replace four tires $769 from dealer

6. Alignment $70 from dealer $90 from independent mechanic

7. Needs new Distributor cap and rotor only the independent mechanic says this no price yet.

8. Repackaging Front wheel bearings, new pads and turn rotors Only the Nissan Service Mgr says I need this $300

9. Trailing and traction arm bushings are Torn Only the Nissan Service Dealer says I need this $500

10. Sunroof leaks into cabin when it rains haven't gotten an estimate on that. I was hoping I could just clean and Armour-all the gaskets to stop the leak.

 

 

I have had the CV boots axle shaft assemblies front and rear replaced (144K miles )and the timing belt (83K and 150K) replaced twice. A new radiator was installed a couple of months ago when the car overheated and bled coolant onto the road (158K).

At 150K I also had the fan and alternator, fan, and compressor belts changed and flushes on the coolent, transmission, power steering and brake system and service (lube?) on the differential fluid service, transfer case service. At 102K the transfer case cost a lot of money (lost repair ticket on that). Left rear O2 Sensor replaced at 138K. 6-Cyl Tune-up at 91K. Bearing repack at 50K.

 

Other than that it has just been oil changes, batteries, and tires. No accidents.

 

I had the strut housing rust recall looked at in April 2012. "No significant rust - No repairs needed"

 

So, I am looking at over $3500 of repairs and wondering if the truck would be worth it. The independent mechanic is really concerned about the exhaust manifolds going and then is also concerned that Nissan doesn't use bolts on stuff (I don't know where) like Honda and Toyota do. Independent mechanic says that usually leads to needing to drill out rusty screws that can lead to damage of major parts.

 

I love the truck but don't want to throw away $3500 for an upcoming known and expensive issue.

 

Sincerely,

 

Ev

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I just purchased a 1999 pathy for $5200. from dealer, 197, 000 miles. Sounds like you already have put a lot into it, and to me what you have to do is mostly mantainance, Like tires, and sparkplugs, and such.

I would think that any car you buy your going to have to do most of all those things to it anyway, unless it is brand new, and even so, there are still things like that coming up sometime anyway.Since you changed your timing belt allready, I would say get your drive time from it! I am not a mechanic, but i would say keep it.

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Wow, prices are sky high! $300 for changing spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter? Should be $100 in labor tops. Parts about $100. Almost a grand for front struts? Maybe $500. Rear shocks? Not even an hour labor... Under $100. Valve cover gaskets are understandable since you need to remove the intake plenum. BUT the plugs are right there at that point so the cost should be even cheaper. Pads and rotors could be a ploy to make money even though it's not needed. Where I work a full boat front brake job including new calipers, pads, turning rotors, repacking wheel bearings, and clean/adjust rear if applicable is under $500.

 

You, sir, are being ripped off in my opinion.

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Are you mechanically inclined? To where you think you could perform 90% of this on your own? Most of it really isn't all that hard. If so, you can save a butt load of money.

Plus, those prices are extremely high. Once we chime in on actual cost of parts. I'd find friend to help or a new mechanic.

 

This is what I have been told I need:

 

1. Both Valve cover gaskets are leaking approx cost to fix: $385 but the NIssan Service Mgr. said he didn't know what other problems they would find once they were "in there."

- Valve cover gaskets are ~$30 at Napa. Intake gasket is $8. This is not really a hard job. Just time consuming. $40 for parts.

 

2. Replace Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and PCV valve approx. $300

- Spark plugs are ~$3 each (~$20 total), Wires are $50-70, fuel filter is $10, PCV valve is $12. ($112 for parts) Very easy to do.

 

3. Replace front struts approx.$780 at dealer, $925 at independent mechanic

- Struts can be had for ~$50 each at parts stores for bargain brand. Usually $75 for KYB's online. At most, 2 hours labor to swap em out. (~$140-180)

 

4. Replace rear shocks $316 at dealer, $330 at independent mechanic

- Rear shocks $30-50 each parts stores or online. Takes a whopping 30mins max to swap out. Very easy to do.

 

5. Replace four tires $769 from dealer

- Tires are conditional to brand, type and type of balance you want. So this is normal price for my area for Goodyears with road force balancing etc. You can still shop around.

 

6. Alignment $70 from dealer $90 from independent mechanic

- Again typical price. However some places will roll in a free alignment with 4 new tire purchase. Shop around.

 

7. Needs new Distributor cap and rotor only the independent mechanic says this no price yet.

- Dist. Cap and rotor ~$15 at Napa. Takes 5 mins to swap. Very easy to do.

 

8. Repackaging Front wheel bearings, new pads and turn rotors Only the Nissan Service Mgr says I need this $300

- Packing front bearings is easy to do, cost is for grease. ~$15. Pads and rotors, you can get get pads for as cheap as $20 to up to $50. Rotors are $45 at Napa. Easy job to do also.

 

9. Trailing and traction arm bushings are Torn Only the Nissan Service Dealer says I need this $500

- All for trailing arms for the rear can be had for $45-65 each on Amazon. Easy to do unless your bolts are rusted solid from salt. Then a impact is needed. May need new bolts if that bad. So add $30 max for some.

 

10. Sunroof leaks into cabin when it rains haven't gotten an estimate on that. I was hoping I could just clean and Armour-all the gaskets to stop the leak.

- There are two drains for the sun roof. On the forward right and left side. Blow them out with air. Search on this site for it. There are a few threads about it. Easy to do.

 

Without tires and alignment that there is about $815 ish. That's if you decide to do every thing at once.

That's maybe a 1/4 of what they quoted you.

 

Save your money. Do it yourself. If you don't know how, I'm sure you have a friend that could show and teach you. Might cost you some pizza and drinks.

 

 

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I concur with everything rebelord said. This is why paying someone else to turn the wrenches for you sucks, and for people who can't (or won't) do things themselves, newer cars with warranties are better.

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I don't quite understand the exhaust manifold issue .

One of mine was replaced at about 75,000 'cause it was cracked .

I seem to remember something about the hot exhaust gasses causing the manifold to crack if revved past 3000 before everything came up to temp on a cold start , and only in frigid weather .

 

Didn't Nissan fix this at some point before they went to the VQ35 ?

 

 

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Have you looked into prices on a replacement? I just replaced my '98 with a 2003 for $2995. It was certified, E-tested and licensed with new tires, exhaust, brakes front and rear( rotors&drums, pads and shoes) fresh undercoating, wash &wax. paint touch up etc. I'm still finding new parts on it. I still have the old one which has so many interchangable parts including all the new stuff I put on after my strut recall repairs when I thought the truck would last for a few more years (wrong). I couldn't have fixed up the old one for what I paid for the new one plus I stll have the '98 for new spare parts. I loved my old truck too but knew when to stop tossing money at it. Don't let anyone tell you can fix it for snack food prices when they don't know your situation. Any way Ev good luck with what ever you decide. Forgot to ask do you have rust issues? For me that was the end factor.

Edited by kdj
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Agree with everything above on DIY, you can get through it, ask a friend or two for help..but the: Tires / Shocks struts / Spark plugs, wires , cap and rotor, brakes, alignment,

 

It's all spec'd wear and tear items, those don't define the vehicle itself, it's no surprise those parts are bad...having 3 feet of body cancer eating up the side or floorboards...that's a different story all together, which I just threw in for comparison...

 

Your truck is young, it just needs to be freshened up a bit. If you freshen it up to sell it, A. That's a nice vehicle now that someone else gets to enjoy but they're not going to pay $7 or 8 Grand for it so you can get your repair cost back out of it plus whatever the vehicle is worth to begin with. B. Say that you do spend 2,000 refreshing your truck just for yourself, and not for sale, tell me any other time that you can spend a mere 2Gs on any other vehicle that you found for sale online or in a lot with some weirdo in a sport jacket chasing you around the lot that you have to register, insure and license, all the bs hoops you jump through when you get a new used car, you have to go through it, learn about it, find all the bugs, crack pipes and sticky pennies and issues and then spend MORE money on it to fix the small repairs, tires, minor issues, get it the way you like it...by the time you're done, you've probably spent again what you paid for the vehicle initially.

 

You wouldn't have to go through all that again and you'd know exactly where your truck stands, what it's issues are, you already know it, it's a familiar old friend.

 

If you don't put any money into it, and just decide to stick a fork in it, you will not get your asking price, no one will give you 3 grand for that truck when they know they're going to repair it, they'll offer you half that and you'll let it go for less than 2 grand because you don't think you're going to get any better offers and then you have to sit with the idea that you just released a vehicle with a KBB value of over 4,000 for less than 2. That is a stink that's hard to wash off.

Edited by gv280z
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When I bought my 94 SE, I paid 1800 for it, and then immediately paid 350 to have a broken exhaust manifold stud fixed.

 

KBB on my truck is around 2500. Since then I've put 800 in tires on it, and a new windshield at 380 because of rust. I put a stereo and speakers in it for about 250...it's due for an exhaust system overhaul....and guess what? I'm handing this one down to my son in a few years when he starts driving, and I couldn't be happier.

 

I'd never batt an eye. It's a good vehicle and it's staying in my family and will remain relevant. I bought it with 188,000 miles, it now has 210,000 and has take us camping, trekking, driving across Texas, offroading...my son learned to drive in it offroad...it's a part of us.

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Hello everyone, thank you for your replies.

 

I am a 58 year old female with severe arthritis. In my teens and 20s, my Dad and boyfriend insisted I turn wrenches and jack handles but I haven't done it since. I don't think with my arthritis I could wrestle rear shocks out and then in. I think I remember struts as requiring more forceful action. I did do them decades ago as well as spark plugs and timing and routine stuff. But now, my body won't let me.

 

I don't have a manual to this car as when I bought it I had an income that would let me get it fixed at the dealer. I will have to look online to see what is involved in the spark plugs and distributor cap.

 

Two years ago, I paid to have my son's 1996 Toyota Avalon engine rebuilt and then the car was stolen. I think that is affecting how I feel about putting money into this Pathfinder which has always been my car.

 

What has really thrown me is the independent mechanic who had a Nissan Pick-up but got rid of it because of Nissan supposedly not using bolts but screws everywhere .

 

Anyway he had a source that said the exhaust manifolds heat up, curve, and then break the connection and to fix that you have to drop the engine to replace the manifolds. But the print-out he gave me from repairpal.com referred to "Nissan Quest Exhaust Manifold Can Warp and Cause the Studs to Break Off" He said it applied to Pathfinders as well.

 

Add to that the known strut tower rust issues and I am wondering, even though both mechanics say I don't have severe rust issues, is a 99.5 Pathfinder commonly going to go up to 250 to 350K miles?

 

Lincoln Nebraska is pretty small townish and I really doubt I could find another Pathfinder that was regularly serviced like mine was up until Dec 2012 (money going down the drain to keep my young adult son propped up).

 

Probably TMI but if I could at least rule out the exhaust manifold expectation and the hope that since the strut tower rust isn't an issue now, then it might make sense to put that much money into it.

 

I do have a friend of my son who has finished his two year community college auto mechanics training and is now doing their body work program. Would someone that green be able to do most of this?

 

Help appreciated,

 

Ev

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Hello,

 

I have loved my Pathfinder since the day I bought it new. Now I am looking at a lot of repairs/ maintenance ~$3500 and was told by an independent mechanic he wouldn't put the money into it since the exhaust manifolds tend to go at around 165,000 miles. Plus, was just reading the threads about the rust issue. I asked both the dealer and the independent mechanic if I should junk it because of rust and both said no. I live in Lincoln, Nebraska and we get salt on the roads here.

 

This is what I have been told I need:

1. Both Valve cover gaskets are leaking approx cost to fix: $385 but the NIssan Service Mgr. said he didn't know what other problems they would find once they were "in there."

I'd say this one is the most labor intensive because of removing the intake plenum, but your son's friend should be able to get it.

 

 

2. Replace Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and PCV valve approx. $300

This shouldn't be necessary because you had a tune up at 100,000 miles

 

 

3. Replace front struts approx.$780 at dealer, $925 at independent mechanic

parts cost $100 for the pair and your son's friend can do this

 

4. Replace rear shocks $316 at dealer, $330 at independent mechanic

parts cost $100 for the pair and your son's friend can do this

 

 

5. Replace four tires $769 from dealer

This one you've got a little bit of wiggle room, depending on sales being run at various dealership, buy 3 get one free, etc....brand, size, various factors raise or lower tire costs, I'd say $500 to $800 here.

 

 

6. Alignment $70 from dealer $90 from independent mechanic

This one is pretty much gonna remain the same....

 

 

7. Needs new Distributor cap and rotor only the independent mechanic says this no price yet.

Again, you shouldn't need this because you had a tune up at 100,000 that included all of these things.

 

 

 

8. Repackaging Front wheel bearings, new pads and turn rotors Only the Nissan Service Mgr says I need this $300

I'm not sure about repacking the front wheel bearings, there's not hardly any labor involved and parts cost less than $50 I'd guess, new pads are around $30 to 60 per set front / rear and turning the rotors I'd guess about 15 per rotor and the friend can do this.

 

 

 

9. Trailing and traction arm bushings are Torn Only the Nissan Service Dealer says I need this $500

Probably can slide by on this, maybe stave off to another time but the bushings themselves are not expensive, probably $30 for a kit, The kid should be able to do it...it may not even really be necessary though.

 

 

10. Sunroof leaks into cabin when it rains haven't gotten an estimate on that. I was hoping I could just clean and Armour-all the gaskets to stop the leak.

This one I'd take to a windshield repair shop and let them check it out, the diagnosis may cost you around 50 to 90 but they usually include that in the cost of repair if you decide to go forward. It may not turn out that bad.

 

 

 

 

 

A lot of this stuff kinda seems like some hype to me. If I were you I'd first talk to everyone I know, use all your resources, and second, focus on the things that you are really aware of, that you know are affecting your drivability in this car, brakes, tires, sunroof...stuff like that. The necessity on some of this stuff is kinda left open to interpretation, and from their point of view it's like " It's good to just, you know, go ahead and get it done....and pay us..even though, it's not technically critical.."

 

If your mechanic is worried about the bolts breaking, he can go ahead and change them out for a higher grade bolt, which would save you in the long run. This is an issue atleast with my generation of VG30 v6 engine, yes,the bolts do break...it's a common problem. It's not a reason to throw away a car.

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My recommendation is, if after you talk to your sons friend and tell him the work that needs to be done, and you tap all of your resources for advice and information...and nothing works out, and you feel you absolutely must do something about your truck, then spend $200 and get a decent set of used tires from a small tire shop, spray off the engine with degreaser in the car wash, and get the sunroof fixed...sell the car for $3700 neg, accept $3300 and pocket the $2900 left over cuz that's what it's worth in fair to good condition in your zip code of 68503 in Lincoln, here's the link for your car:

 

http://www.kbb.com/nissan/pathfinder/1999-nissan-pathfinder/19995-se-sport-utility-4d/?condition=good&vehicleid=5880&intent=trade-in-sell&mileage=150000&options=224704|true|224692|true|224697|true|224708|true|224725|true|224765|true|224765|false|224760|true|224765|true|224828|true&pricetype=private-party

 

 

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I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first.

Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.

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I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first.

Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.

 

And even if it does blow, it's not really that big of a deal. I drove with a cracked exhaust manifold for about 3 years before I finally got around to fixing it. Even passed all the smog checks along the way.

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Hello everyone, thank you for your replies.

 

I am a 58 year old female with severe arthritis. In my teens and 20s, my Dad and boyfriend insisted I turn wrenches and jack handles but I haven't done it since. I don't think with my arthritis I could wrestle rear shocks out and then in. I think I remember struts as requiring more forceful action. I did do them decades ago as well as spark plugs and timing and routine stuff. But now, my body won't let me.

 

I don't have a manual to this car as when I bought it I had an income that would let me get it fixed at the dealer. I will have to look online to see what is involved in the spark plugs and distributor cap.

 

Two years ago, I paid to have my son's 1996 Toyota Avalon engine rebuilt and then the car was stolen. I think that is affecting how I feel about putting money into this Pathfinder which has always been my car.

 

What has really thrown me is the independent mechanic who had a Nissan Pick-up but got rid of it because of Nissan supposedly not using bolts but screws everywhere .

 

Anyway he had a source that said the exhaust manifolds heat up, curve, and then break the connection and to fix that you have to drop the engine to replace the manifolds. But the print-out he gave me from repairpal.com referred to "Nissan Quest Exhaust Manifold Can Warp and Cause the Studs to Break Off" He said it applied to Pathfinders as well.

 

Add to that the known strut tower rust issues and I am wondering, even though both mechanics say I don't have severe rust issues, is a 99.5 Pathfinder commonly going to go up to 250 to 350K miles?

 

Lincoln Nebraska is pretty small townish and I really doubt I could find another Pathfinder that was regularly serviced like mine was up until Dec 2012 (money going down the drain to keep my young adult son propped up).

 

Probably TMI but if I could at least rule out the exhaust manifold expectation and the hope that since the strut tower rust isn't an issue now, then it might make sense to put that much money into it.

 

I do have a friend of my son who has finished his two year community college auto mechanics training and is now doing their body work program. Would someone that green be able to do most of this?

 

Help appreciated,

 

Ev

Sorry you can't do this yourself, I understand that. Your independent mechanic doesn't know everything he thinks he does though. Screws instead of bolts? Not an issue that I know of, and I'm on my 4th Nissan (almost 20 years). Yes, the exhaust manifolds can warp and break the studs, but that was on the VG30 motor, your have the VG33 which is just it's big brother but all the peripheral items are different, and the exhaust studs were increased from 8mm to 10mm to avoid this issue. While the maniflods can crack, as they can on many cars, the engine does not have to be removed to replace them by a long shot; I replaced one a year ago... While he might be a good general mechanic, he isn't impressing me with his Nissan knowledge and is not giving you good info.

 

Properly maintained Pathfinders easily make it to 250k miles, and usually far beyond. We have a 1999.0 that we bought 4 years ago with 150k miles and now has 180k on it. It runs perfectly, and I expect to keep it for a long time.

 

If the strut towers aren't compromised (ignore the exhaust manifold nonsense), I'd keep the car. The dealer can check out the towers, it should be free as there was a recall on it.

 

Your son's friend should be able to do most of this work easily, none of it is high level. Have him take a look at the vehicle and see if what is said it needs is actually true, and you can go to the Garage section and download a free copy of the Factory Service Manual in the pinned thread at the top. This will have all the service info/directions needed...

 

I'd say stick with what you have, and just have some of the work done now. I'll go into it tomorrow.

 

I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first.

Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.

This! Gaskets shrink and screws loosen, most of the time they just need to be tightened.

 

B

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I have to agree with everyone else, the prices you got were outrages. All the parts I've replaced on my 99 have been factory parts, so after 14-15yrs it time to replace. The work your needing done isn't rocket science, a good backyarder can take care of it. (If I was closer I would ?)

 

I've replaced most everything you've listed, and might have around 400-450 in all of it. That's also with parts that has LIFETIME REPLACEMENT. So if something does fail I've already paid for it, just save your ticket.

 

I had a 95 that I talked myself into selling because of needing work, and want to kick myself ever since! I still see it running around.

 

Anyway, that's my two cents, and if I can help feel free to PM.

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Yup. Everyone covered it. If he did the community auto mechanics class he should be able to do all this easily.

To add to the miles. I bought my 99.0 with 138,000 miles. I am over 200,000 miles now. I have had to do all the same stuff your doing now. Truck drives near new. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country.

 

Unfortunately your about the mileage that some $$$ intensive maintenance starts to rear its head up. However, if you are able, and willing. Then it can be worth it to keep the car for many more years.

But, if it is more feasible for you to clean it up and sell it. Possibly get something new with a good comprehensive warranty. Then so be it.

 

You have to do, whats best for you.

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wow that is a lot of quoted cash for the little bit of work required for some of that work. for instance shocks what was it, 300? you can get them for about 80 to 100, and put them on in 20 minutes yourself. its 2 bolts per shock. most of the things on your list i could probably do in your driveway for less than 500 total and thats giving me 50 to 100 for my time.

I have done most of those things to mine. let me see. valve cover gaskets yep, 20 bucks and 2 dollars worth of heater hose for the ones i cut in the back of the manifold because i was tired of jackin with it and couldnt get them off. while i was in there i did the plugs, wires, ect, ect. took some time the first time just learning what to do and shortcuts you have at your disposal but i could probably crack it off there and do it now in 2 to 3 hours. Repacked the front wheel bearings. "they were too far gone" so just changed them as i installed my manual hubs. Rear shocks, already talked about that. did all 4 brakes. "hate drum brakes" but oh well she needed them.

I guess what im getting at is , if you let the stuff go for a long time the list gets long, but all the stuff you named off are just normal wear items. if you really love your pathy get another daily for cheap and bust out some wrenches and get her back in shape. the only 2 things i have left are front struts and a clutch/pp/throwout bearing. I have right around 200k Miles on mine and it still runs strong, i wouldnt trade her for the world. She has been one of the most reliable and loyal rides i have ever had.

 

Pat

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  • 5 weeks later...

Dear Everyone,

Oh my goodness, you have no idea what all your responses meant to me. A whole whole lot!! I have taken my time, reread the thread from time to time, and then came up with a strategy. I have also read some other threads and watched the Mr. Jim run videos and the video on reclaiming and rebuilding his Pathfinder. You people are amazing.

 

I negotiated with the dealer in town to install the struts and shocks. They came down only about ten percent but... I wanted them to be responsible for any issues of the strut mounting rusting and someday driving and having the struts poke through the sheet metal. So that is done. Expensive but with the rust issue I want them responsible.

 

I also had the dealer put on new tires. They said there was only one type that fit the stock Pathy that they could find. BF Goodrich LongTrail T/A 265/70 R15. They also did a 4 wheel alignment.

 

On the new tires I have several questions.

1) They didn't take the best of the four tires and make that my new spare. They left the spare that was there from years ago when I bought the current set of tires. They said the spare was similar to the best of the tires (on the rear). I thought tires outgassed and you wanted to keep your spare more current with age. Should I have insisted on the more recently purchased tire being made the spare? It had 5/somethings left on the tread.

2) One of the new tires had a flat the very next day within 1/2 mile from my house. I live about 1 1/2 miles from the dealer and I drove the Pathy home on Wednesday night. On Thursday afternoon, I drove to physical therapy and the back left tire was really noisy. I thought maybe the mud flap got caught on it like a poker card clipped to a bicycle or that the new "aggressive" (their words) tires just sounded differently. When I got to physical therapy the back left tire was completely flat. It was crumpled up like an accordion, when you looked at it from the underside of the car.

------The dealer said that they found a piece of rubber in the valve and that they filled up the tire and it was holding air. The Service Manager wanted me to keep the tire even though the side wall had looked like an accordian's bellows. I refused, and the Pathy has been in the shop as they wait on getting a new replacement tire in from Iowa. (I am in Lincoln, Nebraska). Was I right to refuse keeping the damaged flat tire?

------ Would the damaged flat tire make a decent spare? This has been so stressful, I haven't had use of my Pathfinder since last Thursday when it went flat within two miles of the dealershiop. Should I try to negotiate that they compensate me by throwing the "accordion-pleated-flat-tire" on as my spare????

 

The total bill for the struts, shocks, tires, and alignment was $1,688.47; Struts and shocks $992.07 and tires and alignment $696.40. It was a hard decision to make but thanks to all of your comments, I have decided to invest in my Pathy and keep it.

 

I plan on asking my son's friend if he can do the remainder of the work as I am able to come up with the cash.

 

I am hoping he will teach me a little about maintaining it.

 

I am really glad for all of your help. I understand I overpaid for the struts and shocks.

 

My final question for all of you is general: You all use your Pathfinders for the most grueling uses: offroading. Yet it sounds like you fix your Pathy's with non-Nissan parts. Years ago, my brother, an engineer, talked my general family into purchasing Japanese cars (over American) because their design tolerances were finer. This was a huge deal for my Dad as he had a cousin who was beheaded by the Japanese on the Bataan Death March in WWII. Yet we all bought Japanese for design tolerances. So the question is, do you find that the aftermarket parts these days meet the design tolerances of the Pathfinders? Some of you have 80's vintages back when US auto companies were building junk. Do you need to buy Japanese aftermarket parts or are US and/or China/rest of the world parts equally good???

 

Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

Ev

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It would be a good idea to replace your factory spare. At some spot on the tire, there is the serial number, which if you look up the manufacturer's serial number decoder, it will tell you the year it was made. I would suggest that if it's 5 years or older, or shows signs of cracking etc then it would be a good idea to put a different tire on. I would suggest going on Craigslist and finding a used tire that's in the same size, and tossing that on there.

 

Your issue regarding the flat on a set of brand new tires isn't exactly reassuring. Some tire sellers have a "buy-back" policy where they'll take the tires back if you're unhappy. I would see if the dealer offers a program like that, as honestly a flat that wasn't sharp-object related is bad news regarding their construction and/or installation. They're not aggressive tires as far as I'm concerned, so they might be pulling your leg. Tread carefully.

 

As far as the Japanese vs. Domestic part requirements, 99% of members on here have been just fine buying factory replacement parts made by USDM manufacturers. In fact, RockAuto is a terrific source for said parts, and has treated me, and tons of others well for much cheaper than Nissan dealer prices. They have three gradients, and I usually go for the top spec, never had an issue. The issues you describe regarding american workmanship are long past as far as I'm concerned, and really that was the OEM's fault for specing such low tolerances, not the manufacturers of the parts themselves. So buy with confidence I would say, and either you or your independent mechanic of choice can install said parts as they are needed. Nissan dealers don't keep much japanese-made parts on hand anyway, especially for a 15 year old car, so in many cases all that are left are the American parts sellers.

Edited by Karmann
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Glad to hear you kept your Pathfinder and hope you feel it was still the right call for you.

 

As for the tires, you are absolutely right to refuse the tires especially if it was damaged like that. I'm not sure what your dealership mean by that there's not many tires out there that fit your Pathfinder unless they're saying, "This is all we have in stock."

 

There are many more options available for you depending on your usage. I am assuming you're not doing any offroading but will be using this as your regular commuting vehicle.

 

I agree with Karmann that if you check your tire serial number, you can find out the age of it and make the appropriate decision.

 

 

As for Japanese/American parts, never had a problem with aftermarket replacement parts.

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Dear Everyone,

Oh my goodness, you have no idea what all your responses meant to me. A whole whole lot!!

 

I negotiated with the dealer in town to install the struts and shocks. They came down only about ten percent but... I wanted them to be responsible for any issues of the strut mounting rusting and someday driving and having the struts poke through the sheet metal.

 

I also had the dealer put on new tires. They said there was only one type that fit the stock Pathy that they could find. BF Goodrich LongTrail T/A 265/70 R15. They also did a 4 wheel alignment.

 

On the new tires I have several questions.

1) They didn't take the best of the four tires and make that my new spare. They left the spare that was there from years ago when I bought the current set of tires. They said the spare was similar to the best of the tires (on the rear). I thought tires outgassed and you wanted to keep your spare more current with age. Should I have insisted on the more recently purchased tire being made the spare? It had 5/somethings left on the tread.

2) One of the new tires had a flat the very next day within 1/2 mile from my house. I live about 1 1/2 miles from the dealer and I drove the Pathy home on Wednesday night. On Thursday afternoon, I drove to physical therapy and the back left tire was really noisy. I thought maybe the mud flap got caught on it like a poker card clipped to a bicycle or that the new "aggressive" (their words) tires just sounded differently. When I got to physical therapy the back left tire was completely flat. It was crumpled up like an accordion, when you looked at it from the underside of the car.

------The dealer said that they found a piece of rubber in the valve and that they filled up the tire and it was holding air. The Service Manager wanted me to keep the tire even though the side wall had looked like an accordian's bellows. I refused, and the Pathy has been in the shop as they wait on getting a new replacement tire in from Iowa. (I am in Lincoln, Nebraska). Was I right to refuse keeping the damaged flat tire?

------ Would the damaged flat tire make a decent spare? This has been so stressful, I haven't had use of my Pathfinder since last Thursday when it went flat within two miles of the dealershiop. Should I try to negotiate that they compensate me by throwing the "accordion-pleated-flat-tire" on as my spare????

My final question for all of you is general: You all use your Pathfinders for the most grueling uses: offroading. Yet it sounds like you fix your Pathy's with non-Nissan parts. Years ago, my brother, an engineer, talked my general family into purchasing Japanese cars (over American) because their design tolerances were finer. This was a huge deal for my Dad as he had a cousin who was beheaded by the Japanese on the Bataan Death March in WWII. Yet we all bought Japanese for design tolerances. So the question is, do you find that the aftermarket parts these days meet the design tolerances of the Pathfinders? Some of you have 80's vintages back when US auto companies were building junk. Do you need to buy Japanese aftermarket parts or are US and/or China/rest of the world parts equally good???

Ev

You are welcome Ev, this is really the purpose behind the site, and honestly, it is a great community.

 

It makes sense that you had the dealership deal with the struts and inspect them, good move.

 

While the Pathfinder tire size isn't the most common, to say they could only find one type of tire to buy is misleading at best. That said, there is nothing wrong with the tires you had installed.

Here is what is available at Discount Tires in Nebraska; we have the Yokohamas AT-S on our 1999.0...

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/searchTiresBySize.do?fl=&sortBy=prca&r=NEOINT&ar=70&fqs=true&rd=15&y=13&x=24&cs=265

While you can check the alignment on all 4 tires, and align the front two to the rear two, this is usually unnecessary and there is nothing to adjust in the rear so '4 wheel alignment' doesn't mean much more than 'front end alignment'.

 

1) Yes, they should have used the best tire as the spare as rubber ages. It was either out of being lazy or... being lazy.

2) Since the flat was driven on, it is good that you stuck to your guns and had it replaced, there could have been sidewall damage. Because of this, no, I wouldn't use it as a spare.

 

Yes, unfortunately the US auto makers (and many other industries) made real junk for far too long. It was a mix of arrogance, thinking they were the only game in town and corporate cost cutting/hyper profit mentality. While they have gotten better with engineering/manufacturing, I still don't buy a lot of American products and especially cars. Maybe it is just on principle now, but I am a machinist with over 20 years experience and I'm very qualified to judge many manufacturing methods/standards. Don't take my word for it, like a tow truck driver once told me, Thank God for GM, they keep me fed. :D

 

As for parts, there are different levels of quality. Some things are not worth skimping on, some things are way too expensive at a dealership and some things don't matter if you are putting them on a 25 year old rust bucket that you beat on, especially if you are mechanically inclined. For brief example...

When I changed my timing belt, I also changed all the seals up front, and the water pump (which has to be removed to get to the timing belt). Because the change interval for the TB is every 105,000 miles, I bought genuine dealership parts and fully expect not to have to change a single one of those items until the next maintenence interval, literally 99,000 miles from now.

The fan clutch (bolts to the end of the water pump) was changed as well, but I bought a quality part from a local parts house. It was a bit cheaper than a Nissan part and is easy to change.

The belts and hoses that I changed were all sources from local auto stores because again, I got the best deals and these are all items that are generally easy to deal with.

 

If you have your son's friend work on your vehicle, tell him not to be shy about looking here/asking for information. Also, a member runs an online parts department at a dealership out of Texas and can get whatever you need if it is still made at about the best price available. I get all my factory parts from him, Rob Lacy (Alkorahil is his login here) as he is a great, knowledgable guy. His contact info is in the Classifieds/Services section.

 

As long as rust isn't an issue, I believe your relatively low mileage Pathfinder is worth keeping for a while. There will be maintenance issues that can't be avoided, but it will be far cheaper than a new car payment and it should run well a lot longer. In reality, if anyone here talks about a Pathfinder having a catastrophic failure (other than some of the early transmissions) before 250,000 miles, it is usually due to neglect and/or abuse.

 

B

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Hi there,

Thumbs up for keeping your rig. Bad luck with the tire is all, could happen to anyone. "your right about the rip for shocks / struts." the "four wheel alignment" is nothing more than adjusting the toe on the front end. As far as i know that is the only adjustment on our rigs being that the other part of the alignment is handled by the tolerances of the good parts on the front.

The strut tower and inner fender support "rust" issue is a factory recall and they can nip that in the bud before it even gets bad FOR 0$ being a recall and all. =)

Also stated above about the best tire for the spare, yes that is correct. good practice.

I highly recommend getting the FSM for your truck, there is a thread on here where you can download it for free. It is something that comes in more than handy. It gives you every nut and bolt with exploded views and torque specs and such. Even if your sons friend will be doing the work, having the manual on had will help out quite a bit.

 

 

HECK YA ON KEEPING HER, thumbs up again. Take care of it and it will take care of you for many, many miles to come.

 

Pat

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