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Need clutch help on what to do next


gpurdum
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Just bought 97 4x4 pathfinder Took it for a few hour long drives no problem. Son calls me from side of freeway last night. Won't move

Had it parked at bart station all day started up the freeway and when he gets to 5th gear he is applying gas but not gaining speed. drops it down to forth helps some but degenerates till a mile latter he is stuck on side of road. Calls me to see if he is missing something.

Check to see if in 4wd no But when he puts in low 4wd he can creep up to exit to get off freeway. That works for 1/4 mile then stops again. It is at this moment he says pedal gets soft ( it now will not return to proper position)

 

Towed home today

It seemed that the clutch degenerated faster then I would think was normal and the soft pedal makes me think master or slave. But slipping says pressure plate to me. I guess I have a hard time putting the two together (soft pedal and slipping) And the rate at which the clutch went out surprises me. I have only had one failure years ago but remember it being gradual.

 

SO anyway slipping and fast fade could be hydraulic related. How do I tell which way to go with this? He goes back to college in a couple weeks so gotta get it sorted.

Mechanically Have skills and tools for job but have never replaced a clutch in a truck (lucky I guess)

dont mind doing the job just have to know what needs fixing

 

 

Thanks

Greg

 

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You could try bleeding it, it should come back up for a shift or 2 unless the one of the cylinders is completely shot, it will not hold of course. You may be able to tell from underneath, see if the operating cylinder moves out and then returns to it's normal position, when someone steps on the clutch then releases. It is on the right hand side, near the front of the transmission.

 

I had a Cortina about a 1000 years ago that had the same problem, it was the master that went. I have a standard myself I had the clutch done at about 230,000K, it was just starting to slip a bit.

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Any oil coming out of the weep hole at the bottom of the tranny where it meets the engine? Oil on the clutch disk can make your slip up real quick.
Sometimes (RARELY) the clutch damper screws up and does not allow the clutch to re-engage the flywheel. This happened on my wifes truck and so I decided to bypass it on all my vehciles. I made a thread about it here...
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32833-how-to-clutch-damper-bypass/?hl=%2Bclutch+%2Bbypass

this is for wd21 I do not know if the location is the same on yours.

 

 

Also check out IRP they have the best prices I have found on EXEDY Clutch kits (OEM PARTS) So glad I used them!
http://www.importrp.com/

Edited by MY1PATH
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I ordered a new clutch kit today and am going to change out slave just cause it cheap and easy. dropping tranny tomorrow and Ill look for oil

I just can't see the relation between the soft clutch and slipping . I pushed on the clutch arm today and there is prenty of tension against the slave.

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I ordered a new clutch kit today and am going to change out slave just cause it cheap and easy. dropping tranny tomorrow and Ill look for oil

I just can't see the relation between the soft clutch and slipping . I pushed on the clutch arm today and there is prenty of tension against the slave.

but did the slave retract all the way? Since you are replacing the slave might as well bypass the damper while you have the lines clear, it will make bleeding easier too...

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I ordered a new clutch kit today and am going to change out slave just cause it cheap and easy. dropping tranny tomorrow and Ill look for oil

I just can't see the relation between the soft clutch and slipping . I pushed on the clutch arm today and there is prenty of tension against the slave.

I'm willing to bet you will find oil on the clutch plate or broken fingers on the pressure plate. No way it would fail so quickly otherwise, and a soft pedal/air in the line would mean that the clutch wouldn't fully disengage, not the other way around. As said, if the slave doesn't retract all the way, it could keep the clutch from engaging as well, that should be an easy check...

 

Some people like to remove the damper unit on the firewall (on a WD21, do the R50's have them?), mainly because they can't figure out to bleed them, but most people leave them alone and never have an issue.

 

If you change the clutch, you might want to plan to change the rear main seal (or that could be the problem).

 

B

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The arm was all the way back to the housing. what do you mean by by passing the dampner

If you read the previous posts I made in this thread you will see what I mean. If you follow the link to the other thread you will get an even more thorough explanation. And I probably typing this here than I would have If I had just quoted my previous posts...

Edited by MY1PATH
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Funny the flywheel looked find. I had it turned a but I thought it would be worse. I drove this car the day before it went out and felt fine. Just a catastrophic failure. was going in perfect today and yanked out the wire for the cam positioning sensor so off to dealership tomorrow

Edited by gpurdum
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Any oil coming out of the weep hole at the bottom of the tranny where it meets the engine? Oil on the clutch disk can make your slip up real quick.

Sometimes (RARELY) the clutch damper screws up and does not allow the clutch to re-engage the flywheel. This happened on my wifes truck and so I decided to bypass it on all my vehciles. I made a thread about it here...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32833-how-to-clutch-damper-bypass/?hl=%2Bclutch+%2Bbypass

 

this is for wd21 I do not know if the location is the same on yours.

 

 

Also check out IRP they have the best prices I have found on EXEDY Clutch kits (OEM PARTS) So glad I used them!

http://www.importrp.com/

I did this on my pathy and it cured my soft clutch issue.
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For those who have bypassed the damper. Did you have any notice on pedel feel? Was it harder to get smoother shifts or were the changes harder?

 

I'm thinking about doing mine and changing the line to SS.

 

-Kyle

Edited by ferrariowner123
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For those who have bypassed the damper. Did you have any notice on pedel feel? Was it harder to get smoother shifts or were the changes harder?

 

I'm thinking about doing mine and changing the line to SS.

 

-Kyle

KEEP YOUR HARD LINES! They work fine.

Shifting is not harder. Smooth is all about practice and the damper really does not do so much that you're going to be jerking all over the road without it. Just replace it with a union and be done with it.

I did my wifes because it was bad, I did mine because I had the engine out and it was RIGHT THERE. Neither of us miss it.

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