Got my first Pathy today!

[LogansPathy]

Hello, everyone! Been lurking for a couple of weeks to see if I wanted to come to the dark side and get a Pathy. I have already found lots of answers to questions I've had and want to thank you all for the excellent info you have provided.

 

 

Today I picked up my first Pathfinder. Never thought I'd get one of these, but in hindsight it seems it was inevitable. I've always loved the box shaped cars and have owned a few examples (2nd gen VW GTI, E30 BMW, chevy tahoe). However, after owning a Chevy Tahoe and Toyota Tundra in the past, the WD21 Pathy didn't seem like it would ever be on the list for consideration. But, in searching for a hardbody, I came to learn that the Pathy is essentially a hardbody with a camper shell on it, but can seat 4 and your stuff doesn't get wet or stolen like it does from a pickup bed. It also offers more creature comforts, but no cupholders.

 

 

I haven't named the new Pathy yet. Gotta see what kind of character he has, but in the meantime I'll give some specs and ask a few questions.

 

 

1993 XE 4x4 Automatic w/ 126k on the clock

 

-Nissan factory hitch, fog lamps, roof rack, side step bars

-Power mirrors & locks, seat heaters, leather interior

-Rear LSD and Lego wheels

-Chrome bumpers, grille, and mirrors

-Moon roof (with cover!) and spare carrier

 

 

 

One issue I need to address immediately is the rear diff. I believe it needs new fluid (at the least). I know it's an LSD because it has the telltale orange sticker about LSD fluid, so does that make it a H223B? Where is that marked on the pumpkin? Also, I read the owner's manual and a few posts here about the oil, so I know it takes APL GL-5 SAE 80W90, but does matter which brand or whether it's synthetic or not past personal preference? I know a lot of marketing goes on with vehicle fluids, so mainly I just want to avoid any products people have had issues with. Also, I know I need to add friction modifier. All the local store has is the Redline brand. Is it up to stuff?

 

I hope changing this fluid will take care of the clunk and humming I hear from the rear end while turning at low speed. I also have the typical exhaust leak at the manifold, so 300z studs will be put in as soon as they get here. I'll take some pics tomorrow once I have a chance to clean him up, but so far I'm stoked on the purchase!

 

 

Cheers,

Logan

[Slartibartfast]

 

Yep, you've got an H233B with LSD (the open diff is also an H233B).

 

Changing the fluid wouldn't hurt. I'll let someone who knows tell you what oil to use, but so long as it's LSD compatible I assume it would work. I've heard of the LSDs chattering if run without the friction modifier, so hopefully that's all yours needs.

 

Did the previous owner say if the timing belt had been changed?

 

And congratulations on getting the cover for the sunroof, those are seriously rare!

[teixeira]

Pics are missing, we love those.

[Precise1]

Welcome to NPORA!

 

Good find on the Pathy, 126k is quite low, especially for a '93. As was mentioned, the timing belt is a critical item. Do you know when it was last changed? Can you contact anyone or is there a sticker under the hood? Mid 1993 they changed the timing gears from square tooth to round tooth and the recommended change interval went from every 60k miles to every 105k miles. So, this means that it should have been changed recently, or it is overdue for changeing either way. What is the production date of the vehicle? (should say on the driver door jamb sticker)

 

 

One issue I need to address immediately is the rear diff. I believe it needs new fluid (at the least). I know it's an LSD because it has the telltale orange sticker about LSD fluid, so does that make it a H223B? Where is that marked on the pumpkin? Also, I read the owner's manual and a few posts here about the oil, so I know it takes APL GL-5 SAE 80W90, but does matter which brand or whether it's synthetic or not past personal preference? I know a lot of marketing goes on with vehicle fluids, so mainly I just want to avoid any products people have had issues with. Also, I know I need to add friction modifier. All the local store has is the Redline brand. Is it up to stuff?

 

I hope changing this fluid will take care of the clunk and humming I hear from the rear end while turning at low speed.

Yes, H223B. There is a plaque under the hood on the passenger fender that will confirm this, tell you what gears you have (HG33 vs HG46), the paint code and a few other tidbiits.

Yes, use an oil with LSD additive, many come with it already part of the mix. I prefer these as there are no compatability issues possible. I had good luck with Castrol in my first one, and Lucas in my second, and it is hard to tell as it is a different vehicle, but it doesn't seem to bite nearly as well and will probably try changing it out again.

Yes, that might quiet down the rear end, especially if it has never been changed, but take a look at the U joints as well, especially for the clunking.

 

B

[LogansPathy]

Thanks for the replies, guys! The timing belt was done about a year ago. I lucked out with this particular vehicle because the guy I bought it from is a manager at a Goodyear tire shop. He did the brakes, fuel pump, timing belt, starter and tires all in the last two years since they've owned it.

 

I went ahead and did the rear diff fluid today. I ended up using Lucas 80-90w and a bottle of Redline LSD additive. The noises are gone so I think that may have done the trick, but the pumpkin and surrounding areas were quite dirty w/ oil so I am thinking the seal where the prop shaft goes into the pumpkin may need replacing.

 

Regarding the U-joints: how can I tell if they are bad? And, are they a bolt on affair that I should get new from the dealer when I order my exhaust manifold stud upgrades and steering lock anti rub caps? There definately is some lag/play going on reminiscent of when my Tahoe's U-joints were crapped out.

 

 

 

Did some cleaning today and a first shake down to see what all needs to be addressed and in what order. Here is the list:

 

-passenger rear door opens from the inside, but not the outside

 

-driver rear door lock solenoid is toast and needs replacing

 

-vinyl on the top of the two front door cards is beyond tattered. Will replace it this coming weekend with new, black, foam backed goodness.

 

-all windows need some kind of attention due to rattling when closing the door, going crooked while rolling them up or down, and one for rolling up very slowly. Will open the doors up and see about adjusting, lubing, and tightening where necessary.

 

-strange thing happening with the door locks where I unlock the vehicle with the factory keyless entry remote, pull on the passenger front door handle to open the door, and all the locks re-engauge.

 

-center console is missing the lid/armrest section

 

-passenger side heated seat switch is missing the rocker part of the switch and the usual knobs are missing from the radio (will nab some from the junkyard and glue them on per your recommendation in threads I've read)

 

-liftgate has been replaced and poorly installed such that the alignment is just horrible and due to the twisting occuring when latch engauges with the catch and pulls toward the right, it appears that the inner and outer sheet metal sections of the liftgate are separated in the driver side upper corner. I think I'll probably leave it alone for now and wait to find a clean, same colored liftgate to replace it with.

 

-liftgate and liftgate glass struts are blown

 

And the last big one I probably want to sort out before anything else is the "Power" light doing the caution illumination sequence of solid for two seconds, followed by blinking for 8 seconds. The truck seems to be driving fine, shifting gears normally so I'm not sure what is wrong, but I will read up on it here and consult the factory repair manual to see if I can figure it out.

 

 

I know I promised pics, but I finished too late to take them today. So, perhaps tomorrow I will be able to get some to share with you guys. Thanks again for all your help and the warm welcome!

[fleurys]

Welcome to the forum !

If you are looking for an economic and scalable solution for a rear lift or level your truck, come and visit http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.php (near the bottom of the page)

* we also make custom stickers * http://4x4design.com/Stickers_Decals.html - Just ask for quote !

Cheers.

Steve.

[Slartibartfast]

Definitely look into that trans code--FSM is your friend there. Hopefully it's something simple.

 

Does it go bang when you shift from reverse to forward? That's probably the easiest way I can think of to find a dead u-joint, but then I haven't had the pleasure with mine yet.

 

A rear door not working is unusual--they typically don't get much wear. I imagine one of the plastic bits that connects the rods that move the door wore out. Hopefully the broken part isn't where you have to maneuver your whole arm in the door to get to it.

 

Locks popping off on their own is common. The solder joints in the lock timer are known to crack over time, and that bum actuator unit might be causing trouble too. I don't have the remote for mine, but I've had the lock motor fight against the key while I'm trying to unlock a door. I suspect worn contacts behind the lock also factor into the problem, but I haven't torn into that aspect of mine yet. It seemed to calm down a little after the lock timer re-solder, but it only acts up in winter, so I've got several months before I know if I legit fixed them or not.

 

That liftgate alignment problem doesn't sound good, get some pics and we can compare and see what's tweaked. I don't think there's much room for adjustment, except for the latch striker. Maybe the hatch got backed into while it was open?

 

Silicone spray is supposed to be good for lubing the window tracks, but don't let it get on the part of the window you see through; it's really hard to get off. Mine rattle a bit too. I seem to remember somebody talking about replacing the window guides/weatherstripping, but I don't remember if they found a supplier or just found better used ones.

Sounds like you have some wrecking yard fun in your future!

[LogansPathy]

Hey, again, guys! So, I ran the A/T diagostic per the FSM and luckily got revolution sensor malfunction. With no real testing equipment, I figured I'd nab one from the JY and see if it fixes the problem (since new ones are $100 plus). Anyone see any issues with this?

 

 

Regarding the liftgate, there's not much that can be done to fix it past replacement. I know a used one was put on the vehicle because (aside from crappy install/alignment) it is badged as an SE, but the VIN scrub and Carfax show mine is actually an XE. I work for a body shop so I see what is within the realm of repair and everything else which falls in the realm of replace. The liftgate is definitely in the replace realm, so it's on my list.

 

Sorry again about not having pics. Been busy with other stuff, but will try again tomorrow since we all know threads are worthless without them.

[Slartibartfast]

Cool, that's not too bad. I've heard they can be a PITA to remove without breaking them (being in a warm/dry climate will probably make this easier), and also make sure it's got the right gear on it for your tire size/gear ratio. There are a few different ones. If the plate by the firewall says it has the same gears, and the plate on the door frame has the same tire size, it'll have what you need. Also, I don't know how your wrecking yards work, but the one I usually go to gets pissy if you take parts off of saleable units (if they wanted to sell a whole trans); might be good to ask, or see if they have a known dead trans you could pull one from.

[Precise1]

 

Regarding the U-joints: how can I tell if they are bad? And, are they a bolt on affair that I should get new from the dealer when I order my exhaust manifold stud upgrades and steering lock anti rub caps? There definately is some lag/play going on reminiscent of when my Tahoe's U-joints were crapped out.

 

if they are loose (clunk/thunk), just slide under (wearing safety glasses, don't get crap in your eyes, you'll need them for a few years), grab the drive shaft and rotate it back and forth. You will see any play or movement, and if you do, it is bad. The other way is to jack it up and support the axle with 2 jack stands (block the front wheels!), start it and put it in gear and let it run at idle. If the U joints are binding (seems tight when you do the hand rotate test), the drive shaft will wiggle the tranny like the tail shaking the dog....

 

B

[LogansPathy]

Alright, here are pics, finally!

 

 

 

[LogansPathy]

Here is the nasty liftgate stuff I mentioned above:

 

 

 

I'm guessing some kind of damage occured to the liftgate and spare carrier since the liftgate has been swapped out and the spare carrier looks bent, but I image it wasn't too bad because the rear apron looks undisturbed and aside from the corner being dented in, the rear bumper looks original/ok as well.

 

 

 

[LogansPathy]

Here are some interior pics (rough, I know):

 

 

 

I was going to redo the vinyl on the door cards, but I think I am going to try my hand as plasti-dip instead and do a few other parts of the vehicle while I'm at it. Wish me luck!

[Precise1]

That tire carrier was hit hard to bend it like that! How are the mounting points for the hinges? Hopefully it is the rear hatch that is warped, and not the rear of the truck.

 

If you are ever up in the area, I have a rear tire carrier in good shape (might want to repaint it) I'll give you a good price on...

 

B

[stabworthy]

I wish I had a "power" light on my dash, I would make it light up at half throttle. In fact , my next dumb mod maybe a amber led that lights up under a lead foot.

 

[Kyle94]

You have the ever elusive sunroof shade! Those are very valuable to the right person! And there is no doubt in my mine that is an SE truck I think XE is just a general look up for a lot of things.

[adamzan]

That's definitely an SE. Pretty much a twin to my 1994! It is rare to see white with the chrome package. Before you, slartibartfast was the closest I've seen to mine.

[Kafike]

My rear doors occasionally freak out and won't open from the outside. Works fine from the inside. I just ended up replacing the internal rods, handle and mechanism. Worked fine after that. Still don't know what caused it. Everything looked fine when I removed it. Did it to both sides now

 

Oh and welcome