Jump to content

Weird Issue setting timiing with t-Light


mikestewart395
 Share

Recommended Posts

With the issues I have been having with the Pathy not going over 3k rpm, I have been running through the whole list of things to check. This weekend I bought a new Light, clipped it on the #1 cylinder wire and proceeded to adjust the timing. My pulley has 7 marks on it. No numbers anywhere so I put a spot of white out on the middle mark and was going to adjust it to there. As you may know you twist the distributor to the right to get the mark to move to the right. Clockwise I should say. So twisted all the way to the right as far as it would go the engine was at about 500rpm idle but the mark was no where near the arrow. I mean it was about 2 inches or more to the left. I need some input as to what I am missing here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will probably have to reindex your pulley. The lower pulley if removed and put back on in the wrong orientation will cause this.

 

I think there was a thread on this in the garage a few years ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually put my pulley on wrong after a timing belt change. for some reason I thought that one of the bolt hole was offset enough that would only allow it to fit one way. I was wrong, and now that I think about it if they did that it would not be very balanced.

 

anyways it was not that hard to re-index. I actually did not have to remove anything, I just loosened all the belts and took the bolts out and spun it and put the bolts back in.

Edited by msavides
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The timing marks are probably telling you the truth from the sounds of things. I'd verify your overall valve timing right away since that is what this is starting to sound like. I had an issue last year with very similar symptoms. In particular no power at all at sub 1k RPM - it got to the point I could not even get the truck moving from a stop if it was facing uphill.

 

The upper TB cover can be removed fairly easily, from there you can verify your cams are at TDC using the marks on them/TB cover rear plate and the crank pully - or a drinking straw stuck into cyl #1. You can also inspect the belt its self for signs of missing teeth and wear.

 

Also, the middle of the timing marks is probably where you want to be - the first (left) most is TDC, with the middle being 15 deg before TDC. If you are to the left of the first mark, then you are after TDC which would be why you have no power at low RPM. It makes sense once one realizes the ECU advances timing as the engine speeds up - the spark starts to occur closer to TDC if your timing is otherwise retarded. ATDC ignition will often lead to backfire, and knock. Any of that going on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...