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94 SE 4x4 Pathfinder - Cruise control Help


stufrus
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I'm back needing insight to a different problem on my Pathfinder. i lost the cruise control a few years back. thought maybe your folks could offer some insights as to what I should look for, test, examine ..etc. From my perspective - everything looks intact - but, certainly something is amiss.

 

Any ideas where i should start looking, and what to look for?

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When you try to activate it, does the light come on? Check for vacuum leaks to and at the diaphram as well. I've never worked on this system so I don't know it first hand, but I'm sure it is listed in the FSM somewhere...

 

B

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The EL section of the '95 manual (there's a download link around here somewhere) has a troubleshooting procedure under "Automatic Speed Control Device" (because they couldn't just call it cruise control and be done with it). Looks like all you need is a multimeter.

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Check the rubber bumper on the brake lever, should be two with cruise ( one for the brake lights the other for the cruise cancel), Make sure the vacuum line is connected to the pump under the hood, pass. side rear near the hood hinge.

 

Does your horn work? Does your horn work no matter what position the steering wheel is in? If no to either question you may have a contact problem where the rings on the rear of the steering wheel contact the 3 pins on the steering column.

 

here is a pic (kind of upside down) of where the rubber bumper's are on the brake lever:

 

10qgh6t.jpg

Edited by ahardb0dy
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Hi - To date - I found that the vacuum hose to the diaphram module was cracked. Cut off the bad section and re-attached. Still no cruise light on dash, it will not set!

 

Pulled the steering wheel off to inspect the three copper pins behind the steering wheel. Did this years ago to fix my horn. Pins looked real good. Barely worn. The three brass rings on the back of the steering looked good. Cleaned, polished and brightened up the three pins and rings.

 

(NOTE) anyone re-assembling this large black switch housing behind the steering, where the copper pins are, be careful when re-assembling and positioning. It appears that you can set and lock down this housing too far back for the copper pins to physically touch the three brass rings on the back side of the steering wheel. Also, if you ever disassemble this unit to inspect the copper pins- try to lengthen the springs behind the copper pins, so as to provide additional pressure to the pins to press on the brass rings. And, reading another page about making these pins out of copper tubing, one might first do a continuity test from the cruise control switch plug on the steering wheel to the back of the large black housing that holds these copper pins. And, one might try place solder on top of these copper pins to to lengthen them. might be easier than cutting tubing.)

 

Tested for continuity from the cruise control switch on the steering wheel to the back of that part that the three pins, turn signal, and wiper switches connect to. there was continuity from the cruise control switch plug on the wheel to the back of this three pin housing.

 

I did not check for voltage - just continuity.

 

I remember replacing oneof those green baby buggy bumpers on the brake pedal a few years back. now - I understand that there are two of these. i'll check for the bumper too!

 

Until later. thanks.

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If the bumper is there, try unplugging the cruise brake pedal switch and jumping the plug with wire. Mine was broken and that fixed it. Apparently the brake light one also cancels the cruise (a failsafe I guess) so I never replaced the switch.

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well if you have only one bumper it must be for your brake lights otherwise the lights would always be on and I think you would notice that, if there is one missing, guess what one it is for ! LOL

 

Good luck

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Morning - After repairing a cracked vacuum line to the diaphram pump, and tearing off the steering wheel to check the copper pins, continuity..etc. I still have no cruise control.

 

* the switch on the left lower portion of the dash illuminates!

* all three copper pins make contact to the three copper rings on the back side of the steering wheel.

* the horn works in all positions of the wheel.

* there is continuity from the small black plug that connects to the cruise control switch located on the right side of the steering wheel - to the plug pins behind the large black housing that assembles the turn signal and headlight switches.

* both of my "green rubber baby bumpers" are installed on the brake pedal.

 

What i need to check now are the switches located on the brake pedal. I read that one switch is for the cruise control, the other for the brake lights, and then I've read that both of the switch's operation play into the cruise control.

 

Can someone confirm this?

 

I do not read schematics well, and would greatly appreciate a more talented member to chime in on the correct procedure for testing, bypassing, metering..etc these two lower brake pedal switches.

 

* When I meter, bypass, or test these switches, do I need to have the lower left cruise control switch illuminated to the "on"position?

* do I need the key switch "on"

* do I have to depress the "set" button on the cruise control when testing these switches?

* what dc voltage am I looking for?

* is it possible that the switches need adjustment to their position to the brake pedal? I'm thinking that the brake light switch is normally "closed" held "open", in such a way that depressing the brake pedal closes the brake light circuit, illuminating the brake lights?

 

I'm guessing that the other switch ( cruise control disengagement switch) is normally "open", held closed. In such a way that without depressing the brake pedal, the cruise control switch is "closed" and when you depress the brake pedal, the switch "opens", disengaging the cruise control.

 

Before I move on to relays - can anyone put insight to these ideas so that I can eliminate these two switches from possible error?

 

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Update - looking under my lower dash for the two brake switches(brake/cruise control) I forgot to mention that i used to haul a pop-up trailer that used electric brakes. So that, when I look under the dash at the wiring for these two switches, I find that the trailer braking leveler control has been wired to the left brake switch's "green" wire. The "green wire" has not been separated, but rather it looks like the "red" wire to the trailer's leveler control has been parallel connected to the "green" wire on the left brake switch under the dash.

 

I have not used cruise control in so many years that I forget if I ever used cruise control after having installed this brake leveler control for my pop-up.

 

Is it possible that this wiring of the trailer's brake control may have interupted or interfered with my cruise control system?

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