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Code 13 Trouble


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My pathy would not start the other day. It turns over and partially combusts but it won't start. I ran the codes and code 13 ( engine temperature sensor ) was the only code that showed up. I replaced the sensor and the connector to it and it made no difference. The battery and starter are only a couple days old and both were tested at purchase. I have a 90 amp maxima alternator that's only 3 months old and it was tested at purchase too. I checked all the fuses and fusible links are they are fine too. I'm not sure where to go from here.

 

 

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It can be broken inside and you wouldn't know unless you do an ohm check. There needs to be basically zero resistance in the wiring from the sensor to the ECU.

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On each connector end of the wires. One lead on one plug, the other on the other end. If the sub harness is good, test between the engine harness and the ECU. I've found that code 13 usually comes up when there's a hard failure, meaning there's an open somewhere in the circuit.

Edited by Kingman
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  • 2 weeks later...

I replaced both temperature sensors and the connectors for each. I ran the codes again and nothing came up, all clear. Truck still wouldn't start. New cap, rotor and plugs and still no start. How can I test to see if the ignition coil is good?

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Check for power at the coil.

 

There's also one wire, red I think, with a single black connector that runs from the fender well over to the distributor harness. Make sure that's good.

 

Make sure the distributor harness is plugged in.

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I checked the single wire and it's connector and they were fine. I started checking all the connectors around the ignition coil and distributor and found this.

a8e6y7y4.jpg

 

 

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It was plugged in when I found it. The pic doesn't show it too well but the connections and corroded and I don't think I can reconnect it without it crumbling apart. Do you know what connector that is? One end runs by itself past the radiator and connects to the harness on the passenger side fender. The other end is bundled with the two that are still connected and they go along the driver side of the block.

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After repairing the alternator harness connector the truck still will not start. I measured (per Haynes) the resistance in the primary ignition circuit and it was within spec. When I measured the resistance on the secondary circuit it wouldn't give a reading. The Haynes says the the secondary circuit consists of cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, the ignition lead from the coil to the distributor and the secondary windings of the ignition coil. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires, and coil are all new. I'm stumped where to look next. Is the "secondary windings of the ignition coil" the book mentions, the ICM that is bracketed with the coil?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I know it's not answer you want but I'd buy generic connectors and replace both sides. If you do this remember to cut the harness side back several inches if possible and add in a couple inches new wire to replace the length you loose by clipping old connection out. You don't want to put new connection in and have it come up half inch short of plugging together!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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