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1994 4x4 Blows fuse When Engaged


stufrus
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I always enjoyed the knowing that if I got stuck, I could engage my 4x4, and pull myself up and out. This has worked for me in past several times. However, recently, up in the mountains of Virginia where I haul my trailer full of dead trees, my 4x4 engagement has been rather problematic.

 

It appears that when I place my Pathfinder in 4x4, it blows the "meter" fuse. When this fuse blows, it kills everything electrical. The tach, speedometer, transmission ( truck refuses to move , even at high revs). The first time this happened, it took some 8 fuses before I realized that I had engaged the 4x4. Took it out of 4x4, blew a few more "meter" fuses until the system reset itself out of 4x4, and then everything was fine and running again.

 

It was not until I was up in Virginia again last week, hauling my trailer up the mountain, where I again felt that the 4x4 capability was needed to pull the load up the road, that my "meter" circuit blew again. Everything died! Luckily, I had visited the local salvage yard prior to my trip, where I scarffed up as many fuses as these old wrecked cars had. So, blowing another 4 fuses did not brother me too much. But, still have this problem.

 

Has anyone out there experienced this "meter" fuse problem when engaging their 4x4. If so, I could use some help in knowing where to start looking for the short. I figure there must be a switch somewhere on the 4x4 lever. And, there may even be a solenoid somewhere that engages something in the tranny. There is also a lighted indicator on the dash when engaging the 4x4 to show the engagement, but - my these engagements(icons) lights showing the 4x4 engaged have not blown or flickered - so I am thinking that part of the circuit must be OK.

 

Can someone help explain, how to trace the 4x4 circuitry for my short? What should I look for? Where should I start? The only thing that may not be original equipment is the trailer hitch wiring, and I beleive, that there may have been a modification to my alarm system very early in the life of the truck.

 

Also, I note that my battery main harness has corroded some, where there are several terminal connections coming off of the main battery terminal. I offer this info so that it may help understand where I might look first, and what power circuits, or possible shorts may be affecting my meter fuse blowing, when engaging the 4x4.

 

 

Thanks. I eagerly await someones experience and knowledge.

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I'm not too familiar with the WD21 (your '94) platform but, do you throw the transfer case into 4x4 with a shifter lever or do you engage into four wheel drive via a push button on the dash?

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devonianwalk - thank you for your inquiry. I use a shift lever to engage the 4x4. There is no push button on my unit to engage the 4x4.

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To me it sounds like you have a short in either the switch at the t-case, or in the harness somewhere that triggers the 4x4 light. I would start at the t-case switch, its on the side of the case, not too hard to reach.

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Morning - Thank you all for the replies. I must admit, I am a little stupid when it comes to nomenclatures like " transfer case". i suspect that the "t-case", aka "transfer case", refers to a transmission housing connected to the actual transmission. and, that I would be looking for an electrical wiring connection that is plugged into the side of this "t-case" that operates a solenoid? I'm guessing.

 

Devonianwalk describes my Pathfinder as a WD21 platform, whatever this is. Is there a webpage that one can use to see an illustrated parts assembly for this WD21 unit that would show the "t-case" and the wiring plug " transfer case engagement switch" .

 

Would this " engagement switch" be on the drivers side or passengers side?

 

Is the transfer case at the rear of the transmission, on the side of the transmission ( drivers or passengers side).

 

Is the "engagement switch" plug or wiring, connected to a solenoid, switch, or which?

 

These descriptors may help me from playing with the wrong parts, and help locate the correct parts as recommended.

 

If my dash "icon" for the 4x4 engagement luminates, could this icon circuitry still cause a meter fuse to blow?

 

What is the " meter circuit". Is there a web page that would show the wiring for this circuit in connection to the 4x4 engagement?

 

Is there a "switch" connected to the 4x4 shift lever? So, that it sends an electrical signal to the "engagement switch" connected to the "t-case"?

 

 

Thanks,

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I am back! Crawled under my 1994 Pathfinder SE on the passenger side. There was a "tranny" case towards the rear most main transmission housing with what may have appeared to be two "switches" or solenoids, along with two 2 wire plug connectors dangling in the immediate area of these "switches"/ " solenoids".

 

Orientation of these switches/solenoids is: Standing in front of the passenger side, the top switch/solenoid being at the 12:00 position, the second switch/solenoid would have been toward the rear and lower at the 8;00 position.

 

The top switch/soleniod's cover boot was off, and looking at the switches two wires - they appeared to be soldered onto the switch. And, these wires directly connected to the switch do not appear to be "un-pluggable" from these switches. Rather, it looks like the wires would need to be cut from the switch in order to remove/turn the switch out from the housing, or twisted along with the counterclockwise removable of the switch, then snipped loose and re-soldered onto a new switch.

 

So, when it was recommended to unplug the "engagement switch" and put the unit in 4x4 to see if the meter fuse still blew - the question now appears to be: do I snip the wires from the switch, or unplug one of the two plugs that are hanging in the proximity of these two switches? and, which one of these switches is the "4x4 engagement switch" and which two wire plug relates to which switch?

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I am back! Crawled under my 1994 Pathfinder SE on the passenger side. There was a "tranny" case towards the rear most main transmission housing with what may have appeared to be two "switches" or solenoids, along with two 2 wire plug connectors dangling in the immediate area of these "switches"/ " solenoids".

 

Orientation of these switches/solenoids is: Standing in front of the passenger side, the top switch/solenoid being at the 12:00 position, the second switch/solenoid would have been toward the rear and lower at the 8;00 position.

 

The top switch/soleniod's cover boot was off, and looking at the switches two wires - they appeared to be soldered onto the switch. And, these wires directly connected to the switch do not appear to be "un-pluggable" from these switches. Rather, it looks like the wires would need to be cut from the switch in order to remove/turn the switch out from the housing, or twisted along with the counterclockwise removable of the switch, then snipped loose and re-soldered onto a new switch.

 

So, when it was recommended to unplug the "engagement switch" and put the unit in 4x4 to see if the meter fuse still blew - the question now appears to be: do I snip the wires from the switch, or unplug one of the two plugs that are hanging in the proximity of these two switches? and, which one of these switches is the "4x4 engagement switch" and which two wire plug relates to which switch?

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Adamzan - I was under on my back and saw two plug connectors and two switches screwed into the rear housing on the passenger side of the truck. Perhaps, I can find a way to get it on a lift where I could play with the plugs a little more. As it was, I could not do much with just one hand.

 

What I did do was clean the two connectors and switches with gasoline. played with the switch plugs a little, could not separate or open the connectors though. Needs to be on a lift. I did put it in 4x4 several times and drove around the block a bit with no blowing of the meter fuse. Still do not know if I was on the correct side of the truck, or if these where the parts that I needed to play with. No one chimed in on the actual location of the switches, what they looked like or - just said find the engagement switch! in the t-case.

 

I had gone to the salvage yard months back and tore out part of the battery cable wiring that was bad on my SUV, and started to replace the badly burnt and corroded wiring connectors to the positive side of the battery. Had to disassemble the old plugs, used parts of the salvaged plug connectors ,etc, and then tried to start the truck. It had no power. Tore into the wiring again to check my connections and proper wiring as I replaced the connectors completely. Tried to start it again, no power. Checked it a third time, and as I was playing with one of the short salvaged wiring connector harnesses, that the insulation was stretching, and I thought to myself this is not correct for wire to do this unless the wire inside the insulation was separated. And, wouldn't you know, both wires on this short harness where torn inside the insulation. They had opens in the wiring. Replaced the wires, and plastic connector by removing the pins and installing the wires into my old connector. Reassembled and the truck works fine - at least it started again.

 

All in all I am finished with what I needed to do. If the 4x4 blows another fuse, I have plenty of spares, and know what to play with now. I think so anyway.

 

I am somewhat surprised that so few folks chimed in on the topic, and that conversation was so limited. I have an Isreali Fal .308 that I have been wanting to build from a kit that I have had since 1995. When I went on one of the FAL sites - everybody and their uncle was offering me photos, how-to's, all sorts of information, pictures, sellers, parts , dealers - these folks where tremendous. I guess off the roadee's are getting scarce these days.

 

As it is - my thanks to those of you that did voice your help. The next time I contact you folks again - it will be to work on my cruise control. It stopped working years ago.

 

thanks again. Still would like to know if i was playing with the right parts for the 4x4 problem.

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Sorry about the slow response, everyday life gets in the way some times. According the the service manual, the neutral switch should be further forward towards the transmission, and the 4wd engagement is a little further back on the transfer case. Some switches had connectors, others had what looks like butt-connectors connecting it. They both just pull apart. If the wiring had been tampered with/repaired, something may have been exposed, causing the short. Glad to see the fuse isn't blowing after you inspected them. You could cut them and put in some new connectors if needed to remove.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/tf.pdf

 

Page 9

Edited by 5523Pathfinder
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Is there a webpage that one can use to see an illustrated parts assembly for this WD21 unit that would show the "t-case" and the wiring plug " transfer case engagement switch" .
Go to the Garage section right off of the main page of the forum, and look in the pinned topics. Enter the one called Factory Service Manuals and follow the links to download your own free PDF copy, it will be incredibly helpful for the entire time you have your Pathy.

I am somewhat surprised that so few folks chimed in on the topic, and that conversation was so limited. I have an Isreali Fal .308 that I have been wanting to build from a kit that I have had since 1995. When I went on one of the FAL sites - everybody and their uncle was offering me photos, how-to's, all sorts of information, pictures, sellers, parts , dealers - these folks where tremendous. I guess off the roadee's are getting scarce these days.

 

Still would like to know if i was playing with the right parts for the 4x4 problem.

I'm sure that many didn't post for the same reason I didn't, they weren't sure. The tendency here is to give good info, not clog threads with suppositions or conflicting information. Most people don't mind guessing, but only when that is what is asked for. It was only a day+, right?

FAL .308? I'm jealous; I am not trusted with such things in my state...

 

Follow the above directions to get your copy of the FSM, and it will show you. :beer:

 

B

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I'm back. Wish to thank everyone for their time and insights. I contacted a Nissan dealer in Charlotte, and they were kind enough to email a parts breakdown showing the location and positioning for the "neutral" and "4x4 switch". I tried to do an internet search using "engagement" switch as mentioned in the comments, but - found nothing. so, referred to the dealer whom sent a photo of a parts page for these switch. It appears that they are on the passenger side, rear most section of my transmission. The top switch is the 4x4 switch that they call 'switch assembly 4x4", and the lower switch is called, "transfer neutral position switch".

 

I downloaded the FSM, and tried to look under the TR section for these switches. They were there, but - was only able to recognize them after looking at the dealer's parts photo for the transfer case.

 

Thanks again - everyone.

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  • 6 years later...

Is anyone still around to help me with this? Instead of one transfer switch I seem to have two with one wire each??? Today I pulled and re-loomed the 8 wire bundle these two switches are part of. Both of mine have the wire to the switches hanging on by barely a thread to one of the leads of the switches.

 

I'm confused why there is only one wire to each switch when the switches themselves have two separate leads/connection points on them? Is that right? How do you know which connection point is the right one? Also the FSM shows only one switch, but with two wires.

 

I guess my 4x4 light doesn't work because it never has illuminated. How to I buy new leads/switches if I cant fix it myself? I checked my local auto shop and rockauto and the part doesn't seem to exist.

 

 

Edited by TheGhost
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