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Diff / LSD rebuilt kit?


enkrypt3d
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I have the H33B (not sure if that's the correct model) LSD for my pathy but it needs a rebuild..... tons of shuddering when making tight turns in forward & reverse. What should I do? rebuild it? Or ? Thanks

 

Also is it worth putting the R200 LSD in the front? Any draw backs?

Edited by enkrypt3d
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It's not so much a rebuild that you would be doing, but reshimming it instead. I think the shims are still available through Nissan, but uncertain.

 

An LSD in the front would help you get stuck deeper in the woods where even the Jeeps couldn't reach you :aok: If you can find one, I'd do it. Not sure if the 240sx aftermarket units work or not though.

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Well you wouldn't use the 4wd diff on the streets anyway. Normally it's just the rear diff operating in normal 2wd mode so an LSD on the front would be pretty useless in that regard. If you had both diffs LSD then you'd be talking serious hill climbing awwrr awwrr awwrr Tim Allen Tool Time grunting

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Was it straight diff oil or did it have an LSD additive in it? Without a friction modifier, the clutches tend to lock up and chatter.

 

My1Path rebuilt his LSD a while back with new bits. Might look for that thread, he took his apart a few times IIRC and ended up with a stack configuration he liked.

 

Driving around in 2x I don't imagine you'd notice much. It might make the front end break loose a little easier on ice/slick snow (more likely to spin both wheels). One guy had issues with it destroying his strut rod bushings, but they weren't in great shape to begin with. Keep an eye on the bushings, and should work pretty well. I've read through a couple threads on putting front LSD in these and found no regrets.

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Looks like the oil is correct, and your diff is in fact knackered.

 

You may be able to source rebuild parts (check with Alkorahil), but it might be cheaper to swap out the third member for one from a non-knackered axle.

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Looks like the oil is correct, and your diff is in fact knackered.

 

You may be able to source rebuild parts (check with Alkorahil), but it might be cheaper to swap out the third member for one from a non-knackered axle.

 

 

Last time I got parts and shims was the first of the year and they were still available.

Many of them came from Japan though and were a month to get them all in.

 

I would love to sell parts, but I would tend to agree with slartibarfast on this one though. Usually finding a good/great condition used rear end and putting it on is way less time consuming and costs about the same, if you are lucky it is even less in cost than the parts. All those parts add up quickly even if it is just shims. Add a busted/chipped gear, warped axle or bad differential and the price goes up even more.

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I talked to Rugged Rocks about that same kit when I did my front and rear upgrades. It's a great kit if your looking for bearings and pinion seal, but it didn't include shims at the time (even though they are pictured). For the H233B you don't need any shims unless you're changing gears and maybe pinion bearings. The side bearings have side bearing adjusters instead of shims.

 

I got all my shims though Alkorahil. I still have most available as well as the LSD I removed from the rear end. I had a for sale thread (it would be locked by now) but everything I listed I still have. I tried to find it but can only search threads from the past year.

 

It sounds to me like you are more in need of just swapping out the 3rd member if you can find one. If not I've got an LSD carrier you can buy for $50 and throw in, but it's a little more work to get it set up properly.

 

As far as an LSD in the front goes, as long as you have manual locking hubs you can still use it on the street in 2WD. 4WD is a definitely more difficult to turn then when you have an open front end.

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I talked to Rugged Rocks about that same kit when I did my front and rear upgrades. It's a great kit if your looking for bearings and pinion seal, but it didn't include shims at the time (even though they are pictured). For the H233B you don't need any shims unless you're changing gears and maybe pinion bearings. The side bearings have side bearing adjusters instead of shims.

 

I got all my shims though Alkorahil. I still have most available as well as the LSD I removed from the rear end. I had a for sale thread (it would be locked by now) but everything I listed I still have. I tried to find it but can only search threads from the past year.

 

It sounds to me like you are more in need of just swapping out the 3rd member if you can find one. If not I've got an LSD carrier you can buy for $50 and throw in, but it's a little more work to get it set up properly.

 

As far as an LSD in the front goes, as long as you have manual locking hubs you can still use it on the street in 2WD. 4WD is a definitely more difficult to turn then when you have an open front end.

Thanks for the valuable input! Should I just throw a locker in the rear and be done with it? I guess the R200 in the front would be nice but its my daily so it may be more cost & trouble than its worth...

 

As for lockers in the rear what would be the best bang for the buck? or would that even make sense for a daily driver / weekend warrior? Thanks again!

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also where can i get the clutch pack for the h233b lsd? or do I even need it? how can i tell what parts i need to rebuild it? thanks!

Edited by enkrypt3d
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http://www.arbusa.com/Vehicle/1995-nissan-pathfinder-.aspx

 

or should I just get a locker and be done with it? haha which one would I order if I have the HG46 axle? How many splines? 31 or 33........

 

would I need the master rebuild kit along with this if I wanted to rebuild the whole diff?

Edited by enkrypt3d
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The WD21 H233B rear is 31 spline. 33 spline is Xterras and R50s. Depends how much $ you want to throw at it. Also IIRC the lockers won't bolt onto an LSD rear, you'd have to find an open diff third member to put a locker in it.

 

No idea on the rebuild kit, sorry.

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I don't know why I keep hearing on here that you can't bolt a locker onto an LSD rear. There are 2 styles of lockers, one will work and one won't work.

 

Lunchbox Locker (the one that replaces your spider gears but the ring gear remains bolted to your existing carrier) - Won't work it can't bolt into the LSD carrier.

 

Full Carrier Lockers (the one that replaces your LSD, the ring gear bolts to it.) - No issues, bolts right in. This is what the ARB's are that the OP posted a link too.

 

enkrypt3d - I would suggest poking your head around the PD section of the FSM. It will give you an idea what your up against if you decide to go the route of rebuild.

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I would personally just swap out the whole axle...look around. I ended up finding a great shape low KM rear axle from a pathy with a rotten frame. Went from open diff/drum brakes to LSD/disc brakes. The swap took literally about 3 hours after the brakes were bled and it only cost me 50$.

Edited by Nefarious
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