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Can't Stop Front End From Shaking at Certian Speeds


brc19761
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when you got the tires put on did you ask them to check to see if any of the wheels are bent? Most places are always in a rush and will throw the tires on and balance them to "good enough" meaning that it may still show needing weights, they think you won't notice.

 

I honestly had loose front end parts like ball joints etc... and it didn't shake at all, just felt loose.

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Thanks for the replies. I guess my next step is an ailignment. I read where someone posted on this forum said if you take it to a regular ailgnment shop you were wasting your money. They said the only place that could do it right was a Nissan dealership. I cannot remember the reason why a regular ailignment shop couldn't get it right? So dealership or anywhere?

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Where are you located? Are there Firestone dealers there? They have lifetime alignments, so it is in their interest to do it right (some people have had issues).

 

The biggest thing is not to jack up the vehicle as it unloads the T-bars and when they settle (24 hours/some driving usually) geometry are different again. No magic to it, just dont jack it up and/or bounce it/drive it around the parking lot betwen adjustments. Any good shop should be able to handle it, but ask the right questions first. ;)

Everything else can be fine but if it is misaligned, it can shake (think crappy shopping cart).

 

B

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Front End Alignment - frequently done improperly

The torsion bars have a slow memory. If the vehicle has been on a hoist prior to an alignment, the front end alignment will be incorrect because the front end will be sitting higher than normal. One place went so far as to explain that it could not be aligned because the rear axle was crooked. The only place we've been able to get the front end alignment done correctly is by a Nissan dealer.

The size of the upper control arm spindle bolts is 14mm x 1.5 x 50mm. A 60mm length bolt should be sufficiently long enough to allow for proper alignment if a large number of alignment shims are needed for camber adjustment.

 

This is what I found about front end alignment on a internet search from this website.

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Yes, slow memory and yes, bolt length.

 

 

 

The biggest thing is not to jack up the vehicle as it unloads the T-bars and when they settle (24 hours/some driving usually) geometry are different again. No magic to it, just dont jack it up and/or bounce it/drive it around the parking lot betwen adjustments.

 

 

B

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I was told by one of the alignment places I went to that the procedure is to adjust camber/caster, drive it around the block, then come back and adjust toe, as they want the suspension settled completely to set the toe. Of course when they did mine they repeated this for like 4 hours to get it right LOL.

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There could be a couple of different causes for this. My first thought was the strut rod bushings, as I have had issues with those previously. However, it sounds like you've already checked that.

1) I know other people have said it, but check for bent wheel/rim - you would probably be noticing a strange tire wear pattern on one tire.

2) ball joints - if a ball joint is loose, it will cause a bad vibration at higher speeds. There's different ways of testing ball joints, and I can't tell you off the top of my head. You should be able to find some pretty good info on if these are preloaded, follower, or what type of ball joints you're testing.

BAD alignment can cause some minor vibration, but I would say it would cause more of a pulling issue than vibration.

3) loose steering components - Tie rods, idler arms, etc.

4) check your wheel bearings. If your bearings are loose or in-op, your hub/wheel will have some play in it and intermittent vibrations.

 

My recommendations:

Check bearings/ball joints first - jack one side up, put hands on 12 o'clock, and 6 o'clock (of tire) and wiggle back and forth. Any play is bad. If there is looseness, diagnose it from there. If no play, double check (visual inspection and component looseness) of all suspension and steering components.

 

I doubt the shocks are to blame - shocks really don't help a whole lot with wheel wobble - that's not really their function. If you had bad shocks, you would be noticing more of a "bounce" after going over a bump (basically like the vehicle does not settle and is "floating").

 

Are there any wear patterns on your tires? Any special characteristics (only does it going over hard bump, or turning, or braking?) I would honestly focus more on any loose/broken components. It would take a lot for an alignment to really vibrate the whole vehicle (or it would be a more consistent vibration). But that's just my opinion.

 

Hope this kind of helps!

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  • 1 month later...

I had a problem that sounds somewhat like yours many many moons ago.

 

The truck was purchased with General tires and when it was time to replace them, I put Generals on again. Everytime, I got above about 40mph there was a vibration to the front end that felt like I was driving over whoop-de-dos or on a Flintstone stone wheel,lol

 

Long story short....one of the tires was out of round. Changed to a new tire.....same problem. Changed to a different brand and problem solved. Never came back

 

Another thing that will sometimes feel like that is a broken steel belt in the tire. (I saw that your tires were new but you never know)

 

No disrespect to General fans or any other tire but my guess is that they all can come with manufacturing defects.

 

If the truck ran fine with old tires and doesn't with new tires, I would look at tires as being the source of problem. Either mounting balancing or out of round.

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I just went throught this. I replaced lots of things. Inspected other things. I was about to beat my head agains the wall. Turned out to be a bad tire.

 

 

Call the place where you got your tires and ask if they have "road force balancing." I get my tires from America's Tire. They did the road force balance. Since I purchased wheels and tires they did not charge me for the test. Normally it would have cost me $80.

 

 

 

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