jumper Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 i was going through a short mud hole when half way through i hit a rock someone had kindly thrown in. it was big enough to stop me for a bit and enough time for the bow wave of mud to come back and get the radiator :furious: got out the hole opened hood and mud everywhere i cleaned the radiator with a bottle of drink then made for home takes an hour normally. i could drive for 10 mins before i had to stop and let it cool down for as long as it took before i could go again then half way back the coolant decided to let go. a ute coming from a bach behind me luckly had clean water with him :bow: filled up and moved on. The problem : now she overheats when ever the revs hit 3000 like going on a tough bit of beach (max 6000 on the counter) had to be at 4500+revs going uphill at 120kph for the neddle to move before this happened i took out the radiator cleaned it well filled back up with coolant mix what else could it be those with a terrano what coolant/water mix do you use ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnodog Posted February 1, 2005 Share Posted February 1, 2005 is your rig diesel powered? try flushing the entire system using a commercial flushing agent... i had a similar problem with my disel engine and that helped... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzz Posted February 1, 2005 Share Posted February 1, 2005 Did you clean the external fins of the radiator really well ? The only change from Terrano working properly before the mishap appears to be the mud. Good luck Buzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 1, 2005 Author Share Posted February 1, 2005 yes its a diesel 2.7td 92 i took the radiator out and hosed it till no mud was in, on or near it then ran the hose through it hooked it back up and put half water and half coolant in it. does anyone know what coolant mix it should be ? i also had to take the carpets out front and back to get all the mud out ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 Hehe, this is a very comon mistake made by a lot of people. You are going to have to: Find a high pressure/high volume hose (try the warf) Take the radiator out again blast the sh1t out of the fins untill the water is passing through them at a similar pressure to whats coming out the hose. Then the most important bit. Get inside the engine bay with the hose and from the rear, blast the water through the Air conditioning condensor. You can not take it out with out loosing all the gas from it, and it sits infront of the radiator and gathers 90% of the sh1t that comes in through the front end. Comonly over looked by people. It looks just like another small radiator. Take your time replacing the coolent, when you think the radiators full, and you have the header tank filled to the full mark, take it for a spin, get it hot, not warm, then come back and let it cool for an hour or so. Then take the cap of, fill it up if its down, and top up the header tank. That should see you right. While you have the radiator out, make sure the bi-metal strip of the front of the viscous fan is mud and dirt free. This will prevent the fan from coming in at the right time. Its little coil like looking thing in the middle of the fan hub. See if that works, get back to me, Cheers, Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 the day after going in the mud i had the radiator out and cleaned it inside and out no mud on it at all .i sprayed the ac condenser while rad was out ,clean water was flowing between the fins. cleaned the fan and the bi-metal strip. refilled with coolant ,topped up after a short run. now when it gets to 2800-3000 revs it overheats. what type of coolant should i use and what sort of mix ? i am going to try suggestions from the other post link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 All that mud hasn't caused it to throw a belt has it?? I'm sure you would have noticed!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 9, 2005 Author Share Posted February 9, 2005 haha all belts still there what coolant do you use in a diesel and what mix ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 Just glycol anti freeze, mix to the specs on the pack, or buy the premixed. Its more dependent on the product than the vehicle i believe. Like you canby a 1 litre bottle of concentrate which you mix with six litres of water, or by a four litre pack of premixed stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 i tried the spin the fan when its cold and when its hot test. its the same cold and hot ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Does that mean it spins easily both times, or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 Do the sheet test now, just to be sure. If your good with tools and logic, you can try this: Pretty good page on rebuilding a viscous fan: http://www.off-road.com/~estegall/tech/fan.../fanclutch.html and the part number for the oil from Toyota: Silicon oil P/N 08816-03001. It took about 3 bottles at $20 a bottle for the Safari. There is abit more to it than that page lets on. You have to drain the resoviour in the hub of all the old oil else the fan ends up working non stop. The resoviour is on the half with the bi-metal strip attached, not the half that has the shaft to the waterpump. I t may be worth trying, as the viscous hub does not come of the water pump, so you have to buy a new water pump and viscous hub assembly, which i bought for mine at a cost of $270 from Parts Master when i lived in Hamilton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 (edited) spins easily , you can turn it with one finger no effort. what about a secondhand water pump and viscous hub assembly ? Edited February 10, 2005 by jumper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 For $270 and the amount of work thats involved in pulling it out etc, personaly i think its not worth it, you may dissagree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 By the way, did those bits and pieces you got from me in September work as they should have?? I was a little worried about the maunual hubs having the correct spline count!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 24, 2005 Author Share Posted February 24, 2005 ah yes the hubs fitted and the rest works fine. i sent you a pm when i had fitted it all must have got lost :confused: i am going to sort the fan out at the weeekend by rebuilding it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 You know what, you still have to pull the darn water pump of to rebuild the fan. It would make me personally, seriously think about replacing the whole lot, as its alot of work to take of again if the rebuild is not a success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 25, 2005 Author Share Posted February 25, 2005 took a drive up mt vic (only a couple of km under 200m high) today it over heats 2500-3000 50kph in d , coming down had it in 2nd 50 kph 2500- 3000 and it did not overheat same distance both times it was at the same starting temp at the bottom as it was at the top idled for 10mins top and bottom !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Yeah, thats what you would expect, the engines under load going up, and not on the way down. Still reckon you do my test with the fan. It will tell you so much. Go buy one of those blue tarps from the ware house for a couple of bucks and do it. It'l tell you if you fans working, thermostats working, water pumps working, radiators blocked or clear and so on. Its a ten min job to do, and beats taking a stab in the dark and pulling your water pump down for one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumper Posted February 26, 2005 Author Share Posted February 26, 2005 does the fan run all the time and when should it speed up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 The fan rotates all the time, but does not atchually move any significant volume of air. I could try explain better, but the best way is to say it coasts around, under no load, it is not being driven, it is freewheeling so to speak. The slight resistance you feel when you try to spin the fan by hand is all that is making it spin. When the engine gets hot, just over half way on the temp gauge usually, the fan will stop coasting around, or free wheeling, and lock up and start spinning at the same speed as the engine, making a loud, easily distinguishable roar, heard clearly above the sound of the engine. There is no way you could miss it, so sit inside with the windows down, listening and watching the temp guage. It will be plainly obvious of the fans working. If you here nothing, and the Temp contiues to climb. Thats your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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