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dthemiley

Crank seals

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Im in the middle of changing the timing belt on my 93 because my crank seal has leaked oil all over it. I keep reading that people recommend changing the cam and crank seals while down there. I looked in my chiltons book to see how to get to it. Its saying I have to drop the oil pan to do it. Is there an easier way to change the crank seal?

 

 

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to change the front main? or the rear main? front main you have to take all off the pulley's timing belt, tensioner, and harmonic balancer off. and the front main seal should be right under... maybe something else? it's all coming fuzzy to me, but i didnt have to drop the pan.

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you shouldn't have to touch the oil pan to do the seals, after removing what was said already, you have to remove the timing gears from the cams in order to remove the top cover and to get to the cam seals,

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Once you get the timing belt off, all you need to do to change the crank seal is remove the crank gear the timing belt rides on. The seal is in behind there. I think they want you to remove the oil pan to replace the oil pump gasket, which is not necessary in your case. I just did mine this fall. Ruined a relatively new timing belt too...

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X4

You should not need to drop the pan, which is a good thing!

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Good thats what I was hoping for. One last question and I should be good for the rest of the project. I have the crank sprocket off and all the keys pulled out, how do I get that last ring off the shaft? Is there a snap ring or a trick I dont know about?

 

 

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Are you refering to the plates in front and behind the crank sprocket? Those should just slide right off though an oil/dirt/gunk mix may have created a 'glue' like bond on them.

A little brake cleaner or PB blaster might loosen that gunk up if that is the case.

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You'll also need to be careful installing the new seal, so that the lip on the crank doesn't roll the seal inside-out and booger up the seal's spring (it's a bit trickier than the cam seals). I made a little "tool" using an old Full Throttle energy drink can. Cut the top and bottom ends off, then cut down the length, creating a sheet of aluminum that could be rolled up tight enough to slip into the opening on the crank seal, then allowed to "unroll" a bit and fit snugly inside the seal. The end of the aluminum roll can be worked over the crank, and the seal then slides down the roll. Seat the seal and remove the old can - voila! No buggered seal or lost spring.

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^Exactly! Although I sacrificed some cylindrical plastic container instead of using a can. You are just using it as a guide to get it past the sharp lip (90*) on the crank.

 

X2 on what Alkorahil said, in theory they should just slide on and off so there is either a burr or gunk holding it in place.

 

B

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It's a pain to get the crank sprocket off of the crankshaft. What I did was drill and tap two holes (opposing sides on the face of the crank sprocket). I then put two corresponding screws in each tapped hole and use a bar-type puller.

 

A friend told me to use two screwdrivers to slowly pry the crank sprocket out, but it seemed like the wedging process would damage the oil pump.

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