ChrisFreeman Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hello all, I have a 1992 pathfinder with everything original expects belts brakes filters and starter. I put some sea foam in the gas tank because after 310,000 miles, I felt the injectors must be a little dirty. A few days after that my engine idles a little rough and pretty low once the engine is warmed up. So low that even the headlights dim and the volt meter falls to zero once i get to a red light. When the engine is cold, it is all okay. I haven't changed my fuel filter in years. Could it be a little clogged now after the sea foam? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobburito Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I would definitely suggest changing that filter Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Sounds like a dirty throttle body to me. Did you do the seafoam through the intake, too? From what I've heard, the seafoam can loosen up the crud in the throttle body to where it blocks the air that's supposed to get in to let the engine idle. It runs fine cold because the computer opens the idle air control valve, but then as the engine warms up, the valve closes, and the engine ends up trying to suck air though a clog. Presto, it doesn't idle properly. I haven't had this issue myself but I'd be inclined to pull the intake pipe and shoot some carb cleaner at the area around the butterfly valve. Somebody who has dealt with this can probably tell you better. Can't hurt to change the filter but I don't think it's to blame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Next time, use a proper fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, or Redline SI-1 rather than Seafoam. The three mentioned products contain PEA which cleans effectively without leaving behind its own deposits as a solvent-based cleaner such as Seafoam does. I'm not saying your problems are necessarily caused by the Seafoam, just that there are better products. +1 to changing the fuel filter and cleaning the TB. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Sounds like a dirty throttle body to me. Did you do the seafoam through the intake, too? From what I've heard, the seafoam can loosen up the crud in the throttle body to where it blocks the air that's supposed to get in to let the engine idle. It runs fine cold because the computer opens the idle air control valve, but then as the engine warms up, the valve closes, and the engine ends up trying to suck air though a clog. Presto, it doesn't idle properly. I haven't had this issue myself but I'd be inclined to pull the intake pipe and shoot some carb cleaner at the area around the butterfly valve. Somebody who has dealt with this can probably tell you better. Can't hurt to change the filter but I don't think it's to blame. Throttlebody does come to mind, wont hurt to clean it anyways at 300K! The works fine cold, runs like crap hot also could be the engine temperature sensor, and it is not expensive and again your truck could probably use a new one at 300K I am also thinking of the the oxygen sensor when the computer goes into closed loop. Does it happen about 5 mins after a cold start? If so take a look at the O2 sensor, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisFreeman Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 I would definitely suggest changing that filter Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk I will do that once I get home from work today and let you know what happens after that Sounds like a dirty throttle body to me. Did you do the seafoam through the intake, too? From what I've heard, the seafoam can loosen up the crud in the throttle body to where it blocks the air that's supposed to get in to let the engine idle. It runs fine cold because the computer opens the idle air control valve, but then as the engine warms up, the valve closes, and the engine ends up trying to suck air though a clog. Presto, it doesn't idle properly. I haven't had this issue myself but I'd be inclined to pull the intake pipe and shoot some carb cleaner at the area around the butterfly valve. Somebody who has dealt with this can probably tell you better. Can't hurt to change the filter but I don't think it's to blame. I didn't use any sea foam through the intake because I didn't want any loose crap to get stuck in the throttle body. The only reason why I put the sea foam in the tank is to see if it could fix my faulty fuel gauge readings. It worked once before and I thought I would try again. Next time, use a proper fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, or Redline SI-1 rather than Seafoam. The three mentioned products contain PEA which cleans effectively without leaving behind its own deposits as a solvent-based cleaner such as Seafoam does. I'm not saying your problems are necessarily caused by the Seafoam, just that there are better products. +1 to changing the fuel filter and cleaning the TB. Yeah I am sticking to techron. I heard it is a much better product. Throttlebody does come to mind, wont hurt to clean it anyways at 300K! The works fine cold, runs like crap hot also could be the engine temperature sensor, and it is not expensive and again your truck could probably use a new one at 300K I am also thinking of the the oxygen sensor when the computer goes into closed loop. Does it happen about 5 mins after a cold start? If so take a look at the O2 sensor, It happens after about 20 minutes of driving but I will still look into the O2 sensor. I plan on replacing/cleaning parts in this order. Fuel Filter, Throttle, engine temp sensor and maybe the O2 sensor. Those can be pricy. Thank you all for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Sounds like you've got a plan. Let us know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 The O2 sensor will put out 0 volts in a lean condition and 1 volt in a rich condition. I'd check it both hot and cold to see what the readings are, make suere they are in range and changing as well. That is about the only test... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 You can unplug the 02 or the coolant temp sensor to see if there is any change. When my o2 was bad it ran like crap, unplug the sensor, ran perfect. Make sure you do it one at a time though and turn off the truck when plugging/unplugging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 the stumbling could just be a coincidence. I doubt the seafoam cleaned anything enough to clog the fuel filter, but if you don't know the maintenance on the item, you might as well. Do spark bolts and plug wires as well. Really, just do a full tune up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisFreeman Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Okay so I think it was all a coincidence. Like silverton said, could sea foam really clean enough dirt and deposits to clog a fuel filter? I doubt it. Anyways I changed the filter and it is running fine now. Im sure this problem would of come up seafoam or not. I still plan on cleaning the throttle plate. Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Good deal, sometiems its just the simple things. I would still look at cleaning your throttle body and change the engine temp sensor given the miles on your truck, not expensive to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Not to hijack the thread or anthing but I have a few questions for those of us that are new to the WD. I have done the routine tune-up items ( plugs, wires, oil, fuel filter, vac. hoses, , ATF, Seafoamed the injectors at 20:1 ratio, annoying 2"of fuel line is still on the list for the fuel rail).... I've cleaned the throttle body by hand and changed the gasket and reattached the intake with marine grade stainless steel clamps. Changed the idle sensor thing (whose name escapes me at the moment) and "set the idle" according to the FSM. I am still getting an idle in neutral of 750 on the nose. As soon as I slide the auto into drive with my foot on the brake the rpms drop to 690/700 and the idle goes from uber-smooth to an erratic stumble.... Ideas on what area I have overlooked?? Sent from my SGH-T999V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 It shouldn't be running that low on a cold start. Sounds to me like the IACV isn't opening, and the engine isn't terribly happy about going into gear cold and at low RPM. Does it do this once it's warmed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Yes, it does do it at all times... just after warm-up, after I've driven down the highway for 30 minutes, puttering around the city. If I come to a stoplight and hold the truck with the brake I get the annoying stumble, but as soon as I slide it into neutral the idle glides up to 750 on the nose and smooths out so that I could have an overfull coffee cup sitting on the dash without spilling any. What's the life expectancy of an Idle Air Control Valve? My Pathy only has 138K kms on it but I'm hoping that I get to keep it for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Does it start stumbling if you pump the brakes in neutral? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Hmmm... I don't think. I've ever thought about doing that... so I don't know if it does that when the brakes are pumped! Sent from my SGH-T999V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 So I tried pumping the brakes at a stoplight and the only thing that happens is that the rpms jump up to about 850. Sent from my SGH-T999V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Perfect I asked because I've had a few cases of a leaking brake booster diaphragm causing stumbling due to a vacuum leak when the brakes applied, usually in drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Awesome... one more thing off of my list of things to fix! Sent from my SGH-T999V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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