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4wd problems - need to fix before winter


adamzan
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So I just replaced in the last while both front cv joints. I notice now I get a vibration on acceleration in 4wd. If I put it back to 2wd and leave the hubs locked it vibrates slightly (feels like driving on rumble strips) between 35-55 mph (it seemed to smooth out after that but I didn't go past 60). Someone told me it is the suspension lift but it was fine before, and it is barely cranked up, probably an inch over stock.

 

I hadn't used the 4wd in a while and thought may be the front u-joints needed some service. They were stiff in one direction so I replaced them and I didn't really notice any difference.

 

Another thing I noticed is that the 4wd will not disengage unless I stop and throw it in reverse, and move about a foot. Then the light will go off and it will be in 2hi. I used to be able to in and out of 4hi with no issues....I checked the t-case fluid it is full and clean, changed last year.

 

Thanks in advance. Really irritating to drive it this way and I don't want to mess something up.

 

Btw all is well in 2hi with the hubs unlocked. No unusual noises either.

Edited by adamzan
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I have manual hubs, so I don't have to back up to disengage the wheels. The hubs were lubed a couple months ago and are easy to lock in.

 

I'll try and word it better, say I throw it in 4hi, the dash light comes on, you can feel that it is engaged. Then while driving I try and throw it back in 2hi, the green light stays on and I can feel that it is still driving the front wheels (testing on a gravel road). If I stop, put it in reverse and give it a quick shot of throttle, it will disconnect... Sometimes I can get it to turn off by going to N and back to drive.

 

Have you guys had any problems with aftermarket CV shafts causing a vibe? The old ones were original and it rode smooth as glass.

 

Hopefully that is more clear!

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everything in your front suspension snug and lubed? (TREs, Wheel Bearings, BJs, etc...). Alignment good? (i've seen/experienced some out of schwack alignments make front ends shaky and all kinds of wHeird pulling when locked in) I know you said universals were replaced, you sure they are still good? New don't always mean good and new stuff fails just like old.

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Yep, I have new upper ball joints, new idler arm bushings, fresh lube and tight bearings. Alignment is not perfect but it doesn't pull. I did the universals myself the other day, they seem good, no play or binding of any kind. Front end is nice and tight. The only thing I notice is the vibe. Its a very sharp vibration, not like the shake of a wheel out of balance, feels like driving on those rumble strips on the side of the highway. I can feel it in the steering wheel only.

 

Can I drive with one hub unlocked to rule out cv shafts one at a time?

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Quick thought the rumble strip comment gave me, how are your front shocks/bushings? I just went through hunting a vibration on the Blazer that ended up being a shock bushing...

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Wheels/lugnuts tight? If so, could try swapping fronts to back to see if it goes away from a tire issue.

 

*On the note of CVs. Wasnt there a recent thread of someone having issues with aftermarket CVs compared to OEM?

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The universal joints on the front drive shaft. Do they rotate freely and without binding? I had a shake on the old pathy and when I jacked it up, the drive shaft was wagging the tranny/rear end. It was all due to the universal joints.

 

B

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Wheels/lugnuts tight? If so, could try swapping fronts to back to see if it goes away from a tire issue.

 

*On the note of CVs. Wasnt there a recent thread of someone having issues with aftermarket CVs compared to OEM?

I rotated the tires this morning before my friend came over, same thing happens :thumbsdown:

 

Read some threads about the cvs. Guess I'll try running it with one hub locked at a time to try to isolate it.

 

The universal joints on the front drive shaft. Do they rotate freely and without binding? I had a shake on the old pathy and when I jacked it up, the drive shaft was wagging the tranny/rear end. It was all due to the universal joints.

 

B

Just changed the joints a couple days ago, they are nice and smooth, no binding or play.

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you may still need to backup slightly even with the manual hubs, it's possible when the hubs lock and than you unlock them something inside is still binding preventing the hub from actually unlocking, when you back up it breaks the binding and unlocks.

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Inner and outer front wheel bearings good?

drive shaft bearing good? Is the thust washer on the drive bearing seated well?

What do you mean by drive shaft bearing?

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Ok I checked those bearings and they are smooth and have no play.

 

I think I found the problem. When I took off the passenger side hub, then took it for a drive, it did not vibrate in 4wd. So either that CV is binding/crappy or something is loose. I think it is the CV thought. It is a new cardone one from rockauto. The other side is a reman I bought locally... Time to see if rock auto will send me another.

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Ok I checked those bearings and they are smooth and have no play.

 

I think I found the problem. When I took off the passenger side hub, then took it for a drive, it did not vibrate in 4wd. So either that CV is binding/crappy or something is loose. I think it is the CV thought. It is a new cardone one from rockauto. The other side is a reman I bought locally... Time to see if rock auto will send me another.

 

I have had bad experience with those Cardone axles. I was replacing an axle, and the 5-bolt spread on the front diff. side didn't line up. And the joints in the axle had...not "A lot", but they had too much play for a brand new part, especially it not being a reman part. it took me 2 hours to figure this out because the bolt spread was so close, but still didn't fit. I had to go up to Advance Auto and buy some junk reman axle, but it felt much better than the cardone one and fit perfectly.

 

Rockauto was great about giving me my money back

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