fsabelha Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I had a rusty brake line blow out and I have two lines feeding to the rear load sensing proportioning valve. I took everything out then cut, spliced, and flared some new 3/16" line from the two lines and went directly into the proportioning valve on the rear axle. I never ever ever could get a pedal after bleeding and bleeding the brakes. I replaced the MC and (after bench bleeding and) bleeding again still no pedal. I noticed I had bubbling in the back of the reservoir while pressing the pedal. That made me wonder if my fix was jankey. I then wondered if maybe one of the lines from the load sensing valve runs back to the abs and I attached the lines to the wrong connectors on the LSV. Any ideas? Does it sound like this could be the issue? Unfortunately at this point I ripped out all the brake line starting at the connectors behind the passenger side tire. I'm going to start over and have a clean line running from there. Also, for what its worth, I have a bypass line going from out one connector into the other behind the tire and I have a great pedal (but only front brakes needless to say). From the brake piping diagram on Nissan Parts Zone it looks like the top line goes to the top connector on the proportioning valve and vise versa, but I have no idea at this point. I should have taken picture before destroying it. My bad. Any help or links I may have misses would be appreciated...thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 What was your bleeding order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Edit: Sniped! Ill try to remember a picture tomorrow. Edited October 29, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsabelha Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 I got some conflicting info on order. I did pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. I didn't know the LSV itself had a bleeder until today. That also may have been a factor, but I read some people skip bleeding the LSV, so I'm not sure. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 LSV is ALWAYS first if you have one. Have you downloaded the FSM? If so, BR-8 shows the brake tubing diagram perfect for your needs. Bleeding order per FSM: 1. Load Sensing Valve 2. Left Rear 3. Right Rear 4. Left Front 5 Right Front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsabelha Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 That may be the issue then. A picture would be great. Then I'll bleed in the right order when I get it back together. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fsabelha Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Nevermind about the picture. I found the diagram you were talking about and that is what I was looking for. Thanks! This is probably what lead to breaking my car by the way. I'll never go out again after a heavy rain with stock parts (and no wench) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 At least go out with someone else that has a tow strap. LSV caught me once too when bleeding the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) A few mud holes wont kill the lines. Road salt will. So, if you already have rust because of it. Then probably a good time to clean it up and under coat it before winter gets rolling. Edit: Cant tell in the pic, but those look very street tire type. Which in mud suck. Trust me, I got stuck in 3 inches of mud while rolling on some Yokohoma HTS's. Edited October 29, 2013 by Rebelord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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