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Importing 1993 Pathfinder from Canada to US...


marbiol
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I'm moving from Canada to the US and I was thinking of taking my Pathfinder with me... It's a 1993 SE.

 

I tried searching but didn't come up with anything past a warning to get the paperwork right before crossing the border.

 

It seems like I might need a letter from Nissan saying it complied with the appropriate US safety standards when it was made - has anyone gotten one of these in the past or know where to get one from?

 

The EPA form seems to say that all 1988 to 1995 vehicles are acceptable.

 

Is there anything else I might need?

 

Thanks,

 

D.

 

 

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Think I'm going to be able to do it - I've found what I think is the FVMSS sticker, so it should be OK with Federal vehicle guidelines... That and The EPA paperwork should be good. Hopefully between those two, I should be alright.

 

NAFTA seems to cover one personal import per year, and those two cover the DOT and EPA regulations so I guess I'll be going along with it this way! I really hope this works as I don't want to go through the hassle of selling my Pathy...

 

D.

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Not sure where you are moving to or if you have smog standards where you are now but it might be wise to contact the state you are moving to for the emissions requirements of that particular state. You may find bringing your Pathy to the needed emissions level may not make it cost effective, unless you have a real attachment to that particular rig.

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Thanks for the welcome ;-> !

 

I'm moving as my fiancee is starting at UMN... Some of my family are from Chicago, so I used to end up in MN for summer camp so I've spent some time there in the past.

 

I'll likely be back on here in a little while asking for advice on garages, and winterizing my Pathy (Vancouver doesn't really get freezing - just wet and rainy). I've never had to put in a block heater or similar as when I've lived cold places, I've ended up with vehicles that previous owners have already dealt with. A recommendation good place to get the underbody coated before salt hits the road would also be useful. I do however have mud/snow tires on anyway.

 

Cheers,

 

D.

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I like Z-bart coating myself. They seem too protect better then others.

 

About the only other thing is every spring make sure you clean your frame out and maybe even drill some extra drainage holes in it. Basically the salt and sand and mud get in the frame and has no place too go.

 

Salt will be on the roads in a month or so.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I made it in one piece! The import border crossing procedure was a little strange, but worked out in the end. (They initially weren't sure whether it qualified as a US spec vehicle).

 

Now, the next item to deal with is getting the car ready so that I can take an MN driver's test.

 

I need to get a few things sorted out as I think they might fail the inspection at the start of the test. Can anyone recommend a good (competent and preferably reasonably priced) garage that I could get to do some work as I don't currently have a covered space to work on things in and I'd like to just get it done as soon as possible.

 

Thanks,

 

Dan.

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As far as winterizing your rig, I'd recommend making sure you have a good batterie with plenty of cranking amps. If you haven't already done so switch your diff fluids to synthetic (they seem not to thicken up in the cold) and make sure your coolant is a low temp rated type. oh yea buy a car brush with an Ice scrapper (to scrape the frost off the windows)

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Yep - rust proofing is on the list - sometime in the next 2 weeks.

 

The diff has fully synthetic already - I thought it deserved a change a few months back.

 

A new battery will be happening in the near future as well (for the first time I'm glad I don't need to get a battery for my old terrano as the diesel rated batteries are expensive).

 

Mostly I need to find a reliable garage in Minneapolis as I only have basic tools here at the moment, and don't know what average labor charges are, so I don't want to get ripped off.

 

D.

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I couldnt find the rules for Minnesota, here are the ones in TX though: Purchased a Vehicle Out-of-Country

The vehicle must meet all federal and state importation requirements prior to titling and/or registering the vehicle in Texas.

Step 1: Properly import your vehicle

Your vehicle must meet the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) established by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).

More information concerning customs matters is available from U.S. Customs and Border Protection.

Step 2: Obtain a VIN inspection

Your vehicle must pass a Texas vehicle safety inspection and a visual verification of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You can have your vehicle inspected at any Texas-certified Safety Inspection Station.

The vehicle must be also inspected by one of the following law enforcement agencies:

  • Municipal Police Auto Theft Unit
  • County Sheriff's Department Auto Theft Unit
  • Federal Bureau of Investigation
  • Department of Public Safety Motor Vehicle Theft Services
  • The National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) Vehicle Theft Investigators
Step 3: Apply for Texas title/registration

After your vehicle passes customs, federal and state inspection, take the following forms, along with proof of insurance, to your county tax office:

  • U.S. Department of Transportation Form HS-7
  • If the imported vehicle is under bond, an original bond release letter from the U.S. Department of Transportation
  • Vehicle Identification Certificate (DPS Form VI-30-A), completed by a Safety Inspection Station
  • The inspection report on the bottom of Form VTR-68-A completed by a law enforcement agency's auto theft unit. Note: U.S. military personnel, including immediate family members, returning to Texas military bases are not required to submit a completed form VTR-68-A. Please refer to our Military Packet for more information.

 

Furthermore there is infor from the US Border Patrol site:

https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/218/kw/IMPORT%20VEHICLE/sno/1

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I imported a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder from Toronto to Michigan back in 2011. I think Alkorahil has got it covered.

 

Collect the necessary paper works: A letter from Nissan USA (not local Nissan dealership) stating that the vehicle pass NHTSA and federal laws, etc. You'll have to call the 1800 numbers and give them your VIN number, then in two weeks time, you'll receive the letter. Then fill up the necessary forms: HS-7 and I can't remember if there are some other forms. Forms should be available on the US Customs website. Also, don't forget the Title and registration of the vehicle.

 

When you cross the border from Canada to America, tell the US Customs that you're importing the vehicle into the US. They'll do a quick inspection of the truck making sure there's no drugs or illegals in it. Submit all the forms and registrations etc. You'll have to pay import duty. They would ask the current price of the truck (approximately) and based the duty on that. At the time I told them that my truck was only worth 2k with all that rust and dents. So my duty was about 100 bucks. Once you made payments and filled up the form that they gave you, the officer would made three copies. He'd keep one copy, then give you the remaining. You'll have to take one copy of this form and title and vin to the department of transportation at your local state. And the third copy of this form, just keep it in the glove box in case somebody asked for proof of importation.

 

Michigan doesn't require safety or emissions tests. So it was good news for me. I'm not sure about other states.

 

I didn't notify Canada that I exported the truck into the US. I read somewhere there's a trade agreement and US customs would give Canada its import list. Since you are already on the import list, you'll be on the export list of Canada side. I've made many crossings in and out from Canada since then with no problems.

 

Good luck!

Edited by dududuckling
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There we go, from someone that has actually done it! thanks for the information!

 

 

 

 

 

They'll do a quick inspection of the truck making sure there's no drugs or illegals in it.

 

 

Really?

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In addition to full synthetic fluid in the differential(s), the power steering fluid can definitely benefit from synthetic ATF being used, especially in cold weather. Less groaning and moaning and it'll operate smoother. In the summer, it'll run cooler too.

 

Also think about putting synthetic ATF in the transfer case and transmission too (when financially convenient for you of course). As said above, fresh coolant is a must, and if you haven't flushed the brake fluid within the past two years, do so while everything isn't frozen. Same with the fuel filter.

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There we go, from someone that has actually done it! thanks for the information!

 

 

 

 

 

They'll do a quick inspection of the truck making sure there's no drugs or illegals in it.

 

 

Really?

Yup, they do that pretty much every time I cross to go shopping even. But the guards at the one near me are complete assholes.

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Made it!

 

Turns out my Pathfinder had all of the US EPA and FMVSS stickers on it in addition to the Canadian ones (I think they did both before sending it from Japan). I got to check the US spec boxes on the EPA and DOT forms and when I went over the border, the only issue was that the person looking at it didn't know what he was looking for, so I had to show him where the labels were.

 

And, today I went down to the county DMV and just gave them my Canadian title and the import form from the border and with a grand payment of $64, I now have an MN plated and registered vehicle!

 

I now have a quote for a clean, rust stop coating and then a full undercoat over that so that should put me well on the way to winter spec.

 

Has anyone here found a cheap block heater that could be popped onto a Pathy with minimal effort?

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Yup, they do that pretty much every time I cross to go shopping even. But the guards at the one near me are complete assholes.

 

I didnt know there was a big problem with smuggling illegal Canadians accross the border.......

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I now have a quote for a clean, rust stop coating and then a full undercoat over that so that should put me well on the way to winter spec.

 

 

 

 

Out of curiosity, how much $ is that?

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The quote is from a local Ziebart that has better reviews than most within a short distance.

 

$50 for the rust eliminator to stop any existing surface rust

 

$250 for a full undercoat for protection after the rust eliminator has been applied. I was offered either the standard or the thick extra noise reduction version for the same price - any recommendation on which to go for?

 

Prior to either application, they are doing a full clean of the underneath of the vehicle and letting it dry properly overnight.

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the only issue was that the person looking at it didn't know what he was looking for, so I had to show him where the labels were.

 

 

Sounds about right for what's probably a decent paying federal/state job.

 

I thought I always read that you want undercoating to stay in a filmy/oily like state. You don't want it to dry or then rust gets underneath.

Edited by Trogdor636
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