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4 wheel wouldn't engage


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Alright. So yesterday I was crawling, and decided that I needed 4x4. Pulled the lever, and heard the click. Went over a couple obstacles, then got high centered. Someone was nice enough to come help guide me off. He mentioned that my front wheels weren't turning. So I ended up having to get winched out.

 

This morning, I looked at everything, and everything is there. (Axles, driveshaft) the lever does move the switch on the t-case.

 

One thing I was wondering, has anyone ever had their hubs get stuck open? And not engage? I'm new so be gentle lol

 

sent while peering deeply into my soul.... trying to find that lost apex seal again.....

 

 

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Yes, the hubs can get stuck, both open and closed. Have you ever taken them apart for service? It isn't hard unless you have a lot of rust, but check to make sure there are no broken items and only grease lightly on reassembly. After that I would test 4x4 engagement on a flat, dirt surface. You should be able to tell when 4x4 is engaged, but a little wheel spin should make it clear as well. That is where I would start

 

B

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Precise1 has it right, I had the same issue in my pathy, but I just went and bought manual hubs but before I had a chance to install them, my pathy got wreaked :( rip, but I still have the hubs and they are fore sale

 

there is another test you can do, hand rotate your front driveshaft, see if you cv arms rotate, the hubs should lock after a rotation or two, then you should not be able to spin your drive shaft. What sounds like is happening, one of your hubs is broken or seized. And obviously the one with lease resistance will spin, aka the one that's not locking. If you spin your drive shaft, when one arm rotates then stops and the other arm starts to rotate, usually that hub is the issue, if only one side keeps spinning, I'd check both.

 

But like he said, they aren't hard to service, just don't over grease them!

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Yes, the hubs can get stuck, both open and closed. Have you ever taken them apart for service? It isn't hard unless you have a lot of rust, but check to make sure there are no broken items and only grease lightly on reassembly. After that I would test 4x4 engagement on a flat, dirt surface. You should be able to tell when 4x4 is engaged, but a little wheel spin should make it clear as well. That is where I would start

 

B

No I've never had mine open. (My old pathy went in 4 wheel 1 time...) I'll take a look and see what's up. Just sucked that I couldn't make it up a baby trail cause of this....

 

Precise1 has it right, I had the same issue in my pathy, but I just went and bought manual hubs but before I had a chance to install them, my pathy got wreaked :( rip, but I still have the hubs and they are fore sale

 

there is another test you can do, hand rotate your front driveshaft, see if you cv arms rotate, the hubs should lock after a rotation or two, then you should not be able to spin your drive shaft. What sounds like is happening, one of your hubs is broken or seized. And obviously the one with lease resistance will spin, aka the one that's not locking. If you spin your drive shaft, when one arm rotates then stops and the other arm starts to rotate, usually that hub is the issue, if only one side keeps spinning, I'd check both.

 

But like he said, they aren't hard to service, just don't over grease them!

I'm liking the idea of manual hubs (so does my dad lol) so I might just do that anyways. But I'll defiantly check them out first.

 

 

Another question. ... rear lower control arm bushings.... where can I buy some? Mine are trashed (just noticed) I'm probably gonna be upgrading all the bushings under this truck soon anyways lol

 

sent while peering deeply into my soul.... trying to find that lost apex seal again.....

 

 

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Check the hubs, might need servicing.

I can't recall if they are vacuum actuated or not, if they are, that's something to check.

 

I remember I told a friend that I wheel with, that I wanted to go manual hubs in my pathy to eliminate some of these issues and he couldn't figure out why....till he lost vacuum and couldn't get into 4 wheel on a black diamond trail.

Edited by 92Path_68CJ
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Lol well that's what I like about manual, your locked, your locked, and rumor has it sometimes when you go in reverse they like to pop in and out (auto hubs that is)

 

I have looked into it I'm pretty sure their is no vacuum lines, I could be wrong this is a 95 pathy xe, when the axle starts rotating they spin into gear which locks up the hubs (I remember reading something here about how it works when I was in my debate)

Edited by cvdloc
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Lol well that's what I like about manual, your locked, your locked, and rumor has it sometimes when you go in reverse they like to pop in and out (auto hubs that is)

 

I have looked into it I'm pretty sure their is no vacuum lines, I could be wrong this is a 95 pathy xe, when the axle starts rotating they spin into gear which locks up the hubs (I remember reading something here about how it works when I was in my debate)

Could be! I don't have mine anymore or I would look.

 

As far as I understand, the auto hubs must have one full rotation when changing direction before engaging again.

Out wheeling once I heard all sorts of zipping/crunching noises from the front end. Spotter thought it might have been hubs. YEMV.

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Lol well that's what I like about manual, your locked, your locked, and rumor has it sometimes when you go in reverse they like to pop in and out (auto hubs that is)

 

I have looked into it I'm pretty sure their is no vacuum lines, I could be wrong this is a 95 pathy xe, when the axle starts rotating they spin into gear which locks up the hubs (I remember reading something here about how it works when I was in my debate)

Well I was having to rock back and forth to get off that rock.... maybe I just want giving them a real chance to lock

 

Check the hubs, might need servicing.

I can't recall if they are vacuum actuated or not, if they are, that's something to check.

 

I remember I told a friend that I wheel with, that I wanted to go manual hubs in my pathy to eliminate some of these issues and he couldn't figure out why....till he lost vacuum and couldn't get into 4 wheel on a black diamond trail.

 

Pretty sure they aren't vacuum, that would be a nitemare! Lol I'll have a look at them tomorrow after work.

 

sent while peering deeply into my soul.... trying to find that lost apex seal again.....

 

 

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No vacuum.

 

As for the rear bushings, you can get them from the dealer, some aftermarket (I found some Napa ones, I think they were as much as dealer) or you can get some poly ones from 4x4parts. They are a PIA to change if you don't have the right equipment (and still could be with the right tools), but if you go with the poly they are a 2 piece so then just getting the old one out is a pain.

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The first time we took our 88 to Baja we got it stuck a few times with the auto hubs, as was said above about a tire rotation

or 3 ft to engage or disengage, so in soft stuff rocking back and forth your basically going to be in 2wd. We now run Warn hubs on

both our Pathys

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The first time we took our 88 to Baja we got it stuck a few times with the auto hubs, as was said above about a tire rotation

or 3 ft to engage or disengage, so in soft stuff rocking back and forth your basically going to be in 2wd. We now run Warn hubs on

both our Pathys 

sounds like I'm upgrading to manual hubs lol

 

sent while peering deeply into my soul.... trying to find that lost apex seal again.....

 

 

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It is the easiest, most durable and reliable way if you are going to use it a lot. If you are on a budget and patient, watch 4 Wheel Parts for a sale on Mile Marker manual hubs, I got a set for $90 through them.

 

B

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If you look on ebay you can get warn hubs for 160$ new (personally its just a name and isnt worth it, but warn has a reputation lol) just be careful to order them for your truck 87-89 27 spline 90-01 28 spline there is a thread on here that explains it, I have 28 spline mile markers brand new but I won't take less that 115$ because I can return them for more if I take less.

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Thanks guys been busy at work and haven't even been able to take my hubs off.... i'm staying late tomorrow for work, i'll bring my truck into the shop and tear her apart (kinda sucks being a tech... all your nice tools are at work.. lol )

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, it was dead today. So I decided I should actually take my hubs off.

 

So when I took them off one was locked solid, other was free Wheeling. So I pulled both out, greased them both, and put them back together. Hopefully it works. Lol haven't tested yet

 

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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And they still don't work :angry::huh:

 

Axles spin, but they won't catch..... so either my hubs are broken, I didn't fix them right, or voodoo isn't happening. Lol

 

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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I agree with adamzan, I know you can buy replacements, not sure on the cost or if you can buy just the brake plates (might come in some bulls... Kit that has the other washers etc)... Might be worth it to grab manual hubs in the end?

 

can't you tell I'm pro manual :lol:

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Here I found this in the trucks for sale section on here...

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36267-1993-nissan-pathfinder-wd21-portlandor/?do=findComment&comment=679928

 

In his extra parts he has warn manual locking hubs for 75$, not a bad price at all (depending on condition) was uploaded earlier this morning... Not sure on the year of your pathy and if it will work... Just thought I would mention it :)

Edited by cvdloc
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Guess I got real lucky when I found my Warn hubs at the junkyard for I think I paid $14 each, than Warn sent me the parts I needed to rebuild them for free !! That's why I will always recommend Warn. When you tell a company you aren't the original purchaser and they still send rebuild parts out for free they are a good company !!!!

 

Also be careful when you grease the hubs automatic or manual too much grease is not good, just a light coating works fine. If you have a junkyard near you I'm sure you could pick up another set of auto hubs easily, but they may be in the same condition as yours.

Edited by ahardb0dy
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  • 3 months later...

Been too long since i've posted here. but heres some updates on my Pathy.

 

 

she's still running strong. i've installed a hitch so i can finally tow my race cars, and finally got my 4 wheel drive to work. lol

 

problem was on the axles. the shims that are held onto the axle by the snap ring were put on backwards (before me, i never touched those lol) so i cleaned and reinstalled them correctly, and BAM everything works perfectly. its amazing. planning on taking my Pathy back into the hills to test my new off road abilities lol. thank you for those who were helping me here.

 

heres a recent picture of the Pathy ^_^

 

1530444_3607360158419_740311134_n.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Can anyone tell me whats involved in changing over from autolock hubs to manual locking hubs, is this something i can do at home? Also where can i get information on how to do this conversion on my 91 Pathfinder.

 

Thanks

Bingomech

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Can anyone tell me whats involved in changing over from autolock hubs to manual locking hubs, is this something i can do at home? Also where can i get information on how to do this conversion on my 91 Pathfinder.

 

Thanks

Bingomech

 

Have you tried searching at all? I've seen a few threads about how to do this before.

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Yea it's as easy as changing a flat.

 

You'll need metric and SAE hexagonal wrench set, a snap ring plier set (cheap is okay) four or five clean new rags and two old and dirty ones to put tools on. A small tube of grease, a soft faced hammer and maybe a couple of flat-blade screwdrivers.

 

Depending on which manual hubs you are installing you might need a few more things but that's why they come with instructions!

 

Make sure that the truck is parked and in 2WD with the wheels chocked.

Grab a 6mm hex wrench and pick a side to start on. Crack all of the bolts and re-tighten them after you do. Once you get to #6 then un-screw them and give the hub end a tap. Pull off the end of the hub, grab the spring and the loose metal ring. Throw them away. The snap ring you'll need so remove that along with the washers and put them on a clean rag. I needed two flat bladed screwdrivers to pry the inner cup off on one side of my truck. Maybe you'll be lucky and not have to!!

 

From this point going forward is going to depend on your new hubs and their respective instructions.

 

Sent from my SGH-T999V using Tapatalk

 

 

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