SkiBumBrian Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I bought this Pathy for 700 bucks. Seems like a great deal, clean inside and out, motor sounded healthy and drives fine. The gauges didn't work and from some info I found on here I replaced the voltage regulator behind the dash, replaced the broken door handle, corner running light up front, all taken off the '90 D21 I had ripped off 2 weeks earlier and brought back by the CHP with a blown out clutch plate, windows broken, graffiti all over the interior, door panels ripped off to get to the speakers, etc. I sold it as parts for 400.00. The PO couldn't remember when the TB was done last so I replaced it along with the WP, thermostat, bypass hose..... So everything is working well except the rear windows don't roll up and down. You can hear the motor doing its job but regulator not attached to window. I took one apart and found that the tab that is captured in the regulator had broken out of its slot. I know the regulators are pretty cheap but I was thinking some creative JB Weld would work. Anybody tried to fix this issue without buying new regulators? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 That rig looks nicer than my last one! and for only 800? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 700.00 but whose counting.... I think I am gonna like this truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Whoops! Typo! Very nice! I've never tried to JB weld it. I've always preferred to just buy new regulators. But if you do JB weld it, I'd love to know how well it works! Auto or manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 Auto. It shifts smooth and reverse feels good but I still wanna throw a new filter in it and new fluid. I'll try the JB Weld just for kicks, gives me something to post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Bypass the stock cooler and install an in-line filter as well for lower fluid temps, cleaner fluid and a happier automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swofford.nick Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 looks like a good deal for 700 bucks! great buy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thanks! Just adjusted the TBs today, don't know how much adjustment is left but took it up an inch. There are several JGCs at the local P&P so will be yarding out some springs soon. It looks like this thing never saw a rock, not a dent, nick, scrape underneath. I look forward to using all this new knowledge I am gleaning from everyone here. Thanks all!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 You might want to consider getting an alignment done after you crank your tb's, you will wear your tires more if you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Yeah, I read that. I haven't even driven it yet so I can't wait to see how it feels. I had a very slight ( almost unnoticeable) shimmy at freeway speeds. I hear most alignment places can't get Pathys right anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I'm sure it will be a bit stiffer but nothing major, looks better without the front lean lol all it really does is tilt your wheels, when I did my last pathy I had to raise it 3inchs, it was a tad noticeable, but I took it to a shop the next day and did a rotation and alignment plus my tires were less than 10k old. If you didn't bump it up a lot and you got older tires, I wouldn't worry about it until you get new tires, just be warned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Brand new tires(on the front) came with the 700 dollar deal..... Only went up an inch, if that. Just wanted to try out the procedure. Suspension was flat and even when I started, I didn't want to go up too much until I got the rear springs. Just looked it up on Pick&Pull website, springs are 21 bucks a piece and a tranny cooler off a Exploder for 17...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Oh then you got nothing to worry about, your on a good road, protect the autos, I went threw 2 before I did an auto to standard swap, never installed a cooler thou, I just like standards better anyways. It will look nice with the little lift, looking forward to some pictures! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I hear most alignment places can't get Pathys right anyway... Place on Hartnell next to Harbor Freight. Try them. He aligned my old bagged Hardbody and took the time to get it right. My buddies Pathfinder and now mine have been through there and we've been happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Thanks! After I spring the rear end and preload more(or reindex) I will have them do the alignment . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Hey guys, I went to Pick&Pull and got a tranny cooler. Most of the Exploders had a little tube and fin cooler but I found a one that had a pretty big plate cooler. Score. But when I got to a JGC to yard out the springs, it looks like a PITA. Can I take off the bottom capture for the spring, use a spring compressor and take it out that way? Other than that it looks like I have to get into the engine compartment and disassemble half of the crap in there to get to the top mount and release it that way. Before I BMA trying to get these springs I wanted to ask the pros if there was an easy way. After I clean up this cooler I will post a pic of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Here is the cooler I found today at Pick&Pull. It does not look stock of the other ones that I saw, the others were tube and fin types. Is this aftermarket? There is no thing as too big right? It is 11"X71/2"... If Mount it upright I want return at top? How about mounting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 no pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 here it is. it is installed now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 There is such a thing in terms of too big to fit between the grill and rad. Other than that, should really be an issue AFAIK. As far as mounting, it may have "in" and "out" marked. Orientation doesn't matter I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 What vehicle did you pull it out of? Were than any other of the same vehicle that had the same one? To tell if it was possibly aftermarket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 The mount looked factory but this is considerably more substantial than off the other Exploders. I am guessing factory upgrade? I saw no in or out so I won't worry about feed and return, barbs are pointing down so not worrying about air pockets either... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 It's super easy to pull front JGC springs...only takes 15 min once the vehicle is off the ground. Just let the front axle drop by lifting up the frame. Then u unbolt the lower shock bolts, the sway bar end links, and the lower spring lock clip. Very very simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Cool! Thanks a lot. Looks like another trip to P&P next week. I knew there had to be an easier way.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 It's super easy to pull front JGC springs...only takes 15 min once the vehicle is off the ground. Just let the front axle drop by lifting up the frame. Then u unbolt the lower shock bolts, the sway bar end links, and the lower spring lock clip. Very very simple ?? Uh, what is your version of Difficult? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now