ezlife Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Well thanks to some friends 7 days later the truck is back together. I have a few small things to work out. Mostly just a high idle problem which I'm pretty sure was a previous problem. For a few laughs check out my other problems. Engine started up and the a/c belt tensioner is bad? lol. Whatever, cut the belt since the high pressure line blew after I put a new dryer last month. After tapping new bolts for the exhaust manifold, I managed to not put one of the new bolts. Luckily up front passenger side. Worst of all, the water temperature sensor plug fell down during the build. So now I have a nice extension running along the top of the motor down by the alternator. On the plus side the motor really purs. Going to try and put a few miles on it tomorrow then finish ripping all the unplugged emissions junk out of it. I appreciate all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Update. The truck runs good when it runs, lol. I am getting code 21 and code 13. The temp sensor and ignition signal. The truck will run till it's warm. Then shuts off and won't restart. When this happens I have no spark. I didn't see anything in the manual to help solve code problems, but I was using my phone. I'm going to do some research now, if anyone has any ideas feel free to chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Interesting. The temp sensor's known for the shutting off when warm issue, but I can't see it causing the lack of spark. I'd start by checking the plugs for the position sensor and the temp sensor. It ran fine before you pulled it apart, so maybe a plug didn't get pushed all the way in or a brittle wire gave way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Well I had to run a wire extension to the plug because it dropped down by the radiator during installation so I'll check it again. It's definitely no spark though. Withing 3 seconds of cranking you can smell the fuel. Which is the position sensor? I can't believe the manual does not give you trouble shooting tips for each code. Edited July 24, 2013 by ezlife Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Eh, the temp sensor won't make it shut off suddenly. Itll bog, sputter, and run so rich it floods its self out and dies though. The crank angle sensor is in the distributor and its known for crapping out suddenly when warm. Its plug is a 4 prong one coming from the distributor. A bad ground or short will certainly cause it. The temp sensor usually only throws a code when there's no signal detected from the sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Kingman I think your my new hero. I wondered about Crank Sensor or Ignition Control Module. Tomorrow I am going to check power to the coil and double check my wire extension. Hopefully the pathy will give me a break after this. Our woods time together was great but this is getting to be expensive now, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 ECU pins 3 and 5 go to the coil along with a constant ground and 12V with the key on. That's for the plug right at the coil. The Crank Angle Sensor has 12V with the key on, a constant ground and, and I don't remember off the top of my head which pins to the ECU the other two wires go to. When it quits running definitely check to make sure there's both power and ground. You made a wire extension for what again? FYI the CHTS (temp sensor) feeds the ECU data via resistance so it can adjust injector pulse width and timing. There must be zero resistance in the wiring to the sensor for the readings to be accurate. Quick test: when the engine dies, unplug the CAS and see if you can hear the injectors click, then plug it back in. Do that a few times, with the key on. With a working CAS you'll hear them click each time the plug is plugged or unplugged. If you do, the sensor is working fine and its a problem between the ECU and coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Vg33 swap with intake, headers, exhaust, cams, and soon to be tune works in my 93 pathy.2 more days to finish the swap in my gfs 93 pathy now too. It's a solid choice and I plan to turbo soon for 350 lb ft. The drivetrain is bulletproof even at much higher than stock power levels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 I made an extension for the temperature sensor. It's a plug in the head, that has a harness or 6 inch extension. This then plugs into the main harness. I didn't notice when building the temp sensor harness dropped down by the alternator behind the timing belt cover. So I extended the Main harness plug to meet up with it. I didn't ohm the connectors. Maybe this is my temp sensor code. Could the temp sensor error stop the vehicle from running? Please excuse my ignorance on some of this. I have downloaded a few different manuals. I work on newer sportbikes so I'm spoiled by chapters in the book that explain what exactly could cause error ex. 43. I know this is a much simpler system but I'm still putting it together in my head. Since all the parts seem to be oem nissan, and I'm pretty sure original or only serviced at nissan until the mid 90's, I know that I better get to know the truck real well real quick, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Nefarious this I know, lol. After checking into everything from small block to diesel it's the obvious choice. The problem I have right now is funds and time. I am moving in a month so I have already offed my other truck and my bike. I don't need to take the nissan with me but if it works out great. So far I really like it. I could see this happening down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Temp sensor won't cause it to lose spark, no. But like I said it can make it run like total crap and bog out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Alright so today I broke out a gallon of gas and a match before I realized, if I burn this truck then I have been beaten by a 1988 piece of steel. First I checked my connections to my home made temperature sensor extension. It seems one may have been some what loose, showing .01 resistance. Fixed it. Drove it around the block, tried over and over to make it not start again. I checked for codes and now there is no codes, ( assuming both lights lite up when no codes) 21 nor 13 or what ever they were. I noticed the battery wasn't charging. Took the altenator off, went to 3 stores to test it, finally one was able to do a test and said it was bad. Took it to a local shop and they said brushes were shot and 4 gallons of mud were inside. I can't imagine how!!! lol. Luckily 30 bucks and I was out the door. Now charges at 14 volts constant. lol. Put the truck back together and on the third test run the truck shut off when shifting to fourth, pop the clutch it was fine. Again it shut off when pushing the clutch in. Popped it again and it ran fine for 3 miles back to the house. On the plus side the exhaust leak is 95 percent gone I have a pile of old emissions crap and hoses on the floor. Still trying to figure out what the high idle problem is. After disconnecting the emissions it now stays around 1200 rpms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Sounds like you're narrowing it down! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 This Nissan has been put in time out. I am giving it time to think about what's it done while I calm myself to deal with the situation. Took it out yesterday and put 30 miles on it. It ran great. Got back to the house to find oil leaking from behind the timing cover. SMH Still happy to have 30 miles with no dying, no problems restarting. On the flip side I have learned that I am going to change everything I touch on this truck. Luckily this problem is more time then money as I'm thinking it's probably the timing seal, but it's a little ridiculous for a truck to run so sweet and then everything stopped working at the same time, lol. I really appreciate all the help here. Every time I think about about burning this thing I remember you guys must have kept them around for a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Well it wasn't the timing seal. It was the oil pump housing. Which I can't take off without dropping the oil pan. So I loosened it up and rednecked some gasket maker back there. Put it back together, ran it down the road, brought it to the house and it wouldn't start. Thanks kingman for the tip. I unplugged the pickup and heard the relay clicking on the fender well. Then I checked for 12 volts to the coil and I had that. Checked for codes and at first it gave me a green light only. Reset the system and got no codes ( again assuming no codes means red and green light just stay lit). Before when I had this problem I changed the coil and that didn't fix the problem. So we slowly poured a little water over the temp sensor in the head and waa laa it started. Slowly put water in the radiator and bled the system and it started a few more times after that. We will see. Hopefully it's good for now. I still have a small exhaust leak which I just need to get a shorter bolt to fix and later I will worry about the high idle problem. It stays around 1100 to 1300 so I guess it won't hurt for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) High idle might be a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you have a vacuum gauge to hook up? Should be drawing between 19-22. Or spray brake cleaner all over everything. Dirty MAF/connector, TPS, timing too far advanced, or even actually adjusting it down with the set screw. Edited July 30, 2013 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Idle screw is backed out all the way. I sprayed all the lines for a vacuum leak and got nothing. I will clean the maf and the throttle body later. Right now I just don't want to create or dive into any new problems. This one kicked my ass. My new rules is if it's not a timing chain motor change the belt. Even if you think it was changed yesterday, lol. What I would like to ask is if I had a 3 or 4 inch body lift do you think I could squeeze the motor out then? Just a thought for later. For a laugh me and a friend figured out how to make this the perfect motor. Head spacers to the point it's not an interference motor anymore and then a giant turbo to get the power back, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 That would be a VG33 with spacers. They have the deepest valve reliefs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 There's two idle screws, sure you got the right one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I have a three inch body lift, when I did my swap after snapping a timing belt I didn't bump the diff. It is easier to take the trans out then the engine. Also I used a engine hoist to do my trans the past two times I had it out. It allows forward and side to side motion a lot better so you can line the splines up. As for the swap, good luck I have been looking around for a while and it doesn't seem worth the effort. Good luck with you project, you can PM me if you need I have done a swap and a couple of clutch jobs. About to pull a engine on a 90 this weekend, bought it for 500 and its hammered. needs to be pulled and all new gaskets and seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 So this morning I went out and the truck started right up. Let it run for about 20 seconds and it shut it off. Changed the coil, cap and rotor. Still had the same spark, which seems a little weak to me but it's the same when the truck starts or not. After 20 minutes of my buddy saying let's pull start it and me arguing that I would rather solve the problem why it won't start, I gave up and we pull started it. It was really flooded. I drove it around, brought it back shut it off. No start again. Pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck ran till it ran out of gas. About that time my buddy remembered we never put a filter on the fuel return line. He popped the bolt out of the end of the hose and it was raw fuel. The truck has started and ran find the rest of the day. The oil leak how ever is no better. Since it's not leaking onto the belt I'm going to run it for now. I will be pulling this motor probably over the winter and resealing it or doing the 3.3 swap if funds allow. mauitrailguy what do you mean by using an engine hoist for the trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Sorry, in my first line I meant to say ran the truck for 20 seconds, shut it off and it wouldn't start back up. I guess my question is that by having the return line plugged could this cause such a rich condition and that's why the truck will only restart after a couple of hours each time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Yeah, if it can't return excess fuel to the tank it'll flood the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezlife Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 So now I have a new problem. Around 2500 rpms the truck seems to stumble. If I throttle on or off it clears up. The warmer it get the worse it gets. Today I put it in neutral from 2nd and it died. It did not restart. I pulled the fuel pump relay even though I didn't smell excess fuel. It made no difference. I'm assuming now that I don't smell fuel this is a new problem. I waited about 15 minutes and the truck fired right up. Drove it home. I have decided I'm taking it to the woods tonight. I have a buddy with a truck and trailer. I plan on driving it until it won't restart again, lol. I can't take this worrying and not traveling more then a few miles from the house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I used a cherry picker with double braided nylon around the trans through the passenger side door with the seats removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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