Front Drive Shaft Removal

[Enjoi408]

Hey guys. I want to get some mileage back. Here's what I got. My truck is a DD and I have a 2001 with the dial switch 4x4. With my SFD lift and big tires, my mileage has dropped. Im short on cash and can't afford to buy the Warn Hubs yet. But a mechanic suggested that for the mean while that Im not on the trail that I could remove my front drive shaft to reduce some drag so that it acts like manual hubs. And when I go back on the trail, I can just throw it back in.

 

Another mechanic overheard this, and suggested there might be some issues with that. ABS may fail or other sensors on the trasnfer case may error. I figured I'd ask NPORA.

[Radwaste]

Removing your front drive shaft will not prevent the front axle components from rotating. With the transmission in 2WD, there is no motive force on the front drive shaft. The front diff and CV shafts are being rotated by the rotation of the front tires.

 

The manual hubs provide a break between the CV shafts and the tires, and with the trans in 2WD, nothing is pushing the front diff.

 

I'd see no benefit from removing your front drive shaft besides some small weight loss.

[Tad]

Agreed, it would take you longer than you will probably own the rig to realize any savings that might be felt in the wallet.

[Enjoi408]

hmm.. I was under the impression that the front drive shaft was rotating so that you could shift on the fly. But if that's not the case, then I'll shoot for the manual hubs. Thanks for the clarification.

[XPLORx4]

Enjoi- if your Pathy has the "all-mode" 4WD selection on the dial, it's not a good idea to use manual hubs. I remember reading that the transfer case is lubricated by a pump attached to the front driveshaft, and if it doesn't spin, the transfer case won't get lubricated properly.

 

Your MPG is down from the lift and the rolling resistance/weight of your tires. Your speedometer/odometer are probably off by a pretty big amount, too, so your MPG calculations will be lower than actual. If you measure your speed using a GPS, calculate the % error and multiply that by your trip odometer reading at fill-up time to get a closer # to the actual miles you've driven.

[fleurys]

Enjoi- if your Pathy has the "all-mode" 4WD selection on the dial, it's not a good idea to use manual hubs. I remember reading that the transfer case is lubricated by a pump attached to the front driveshaft, and if it doesn't spin, the transfer case won't get lubricated properly.

 

Your MPG is down from the lift and the rolling resistance/weight of your tires. Your speedometer/odometer are probably off by a pretty big amount, too, so your MPG calculations will be lower than actual. If you measure your speed using a GPS, calculate the % error and multiply that by your trip odometer reading at fill-up time to get a closer # to the actual miles you've driven.

XPLORx4, I,m the one who had started the comment about hubs and auto dial (It's actually having the atx14a transfer case). In the FSM it was stated that the TC was being lubricated by the MAIN shaft. This is where I had made the mistake of assuming the main shaft being the front driveshaft. We all agreed at the end that it was the rear main shaft that was actuating the oil pump, therefore putting the myth to rest...

 

S.

[shoesandsocks]

get a different set of hubs maybe i know the warn hubs are clearly the most know but i have the 4wd pros locking hubs and there alot cheaper and i have them on both my pathys and have never had a problem and u can buy two sets of these for 40bucks cheaper than a set of warn hubs

 

4wd pros locking hubs

[Enjoi408]

Enjoi- if your Pathy has the "all-mode" 4WD selection on the dial, it's not a good idea to use manual hubs. I remember reading that the transfer case is lubricated by a pump attached to the front driveshaft, and if it doesn't spin, the transfer case won't get lubricated properly.

 

Your MPG is down from the lift and the rolling resistance/weight of your tires. Your speedometer/odometer are probably off by a pretty big amount, too, so your MPG calculations will be lower than actual. If you measure your speed using a GPS, calculate the % error and multiply that by your trip odometer reading at fill-up time to get a closer # to the actual miles you've driven.

Im pretty sure I've read some members with all mode 4wd that have manual hubs that have been okay with this set up. Is there anyone that can chime in on that one?

 

Im not concern about the mileage I get out. I know its from my tires and lift, I just wanna try to recover some milage back. I burn about 1/4 of a tank per hour.

[XPLORx4]

I know its from my tires and lift, I just wanna try to recover some milage back. I burn about 1/4 of a tank per hour.

 

If you're driving only 20 miles in that hour, that's bad. But if you're averaging 60 miles in that hour, that's pretty good.

[Tad]

Im pretty sure I've read some members with all mode 4wd that have manual hubs that have been okay with this set up. Is there anyone that can chime in on that one?

 

Im not concern about the mileage I get out. I know its from my tires and lift, I just wanna try to recover some milage back. I burn about 1/4 of a tank per hour.

We have the All-Mode T-Case (2000 QX4) and Warn Premium hubs.

I read through as many of those posts that I could find prior to installing them about a year ago.

Many were not conclusive but there were enough folks running this way that we decided to go ahead and do it.

 

The only issue we have is with the 4WD indicator light.

In 2WD with the hubs unlocked the light comes on erratically.

Sometimes after 5 miles, sometimes it's 75 miles, once it was almost 250, sometimes not al all.

I don't think it's a pump issue but something is sensing something somewhere.

Anyway, we have noticed no issues or damage but I am still keeping my eye open for a pre-99.5 case, just in case.