enkrypt3d Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 I think the Pro Comp Toxic shocks are geared more towards lowered vehicles. I think the Rancho 5000's are a fine choice, I just went with the Pro Comp 3000's because a few people said the Ranchos were really firm. Honestly on pavement my Pro Comps are pretty firm, but off road they are perfect. The Pro Comps being cheaper helped sway me that way as well. so are the 5000's stiffer? i want something that will absorb all the bumps and speed humps without the whole truck bouncing for 300 feet afterwards....... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I cant compare them, they cant be much stiffer than my Pro Comps really. I actually like how my truck rides and handles off road on dirt more than pavement. Lots of people love the Ranchos though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 I just hope its not too stiff..... probably wont be stiffer than my NSX though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 The Brake and ABS light on together were how I found out that my master cylinder was leaking! You want to tend to that sooner rather than later. No fluid = no brakes, and bleeding the system will take a whole lot longer once it's sucked in air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 The Brake and ABS light on together were how I found out that my master cylinder was leaking! You want to tend to that sooner rather than later. No fluid = no brakes, and bleeding the system will take a whole lot longer once it's sucked in air. Thanks for the tip! how big of a deal is it to replace that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Also I gotta pickup new tires - and I love the tall square looking tires..... should I stick with the 235/75/15? or go with a taller one? http://www.americastire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?c=4&rcz=91521&ar=75&rf=true&rd=15&rc=CALINT&cs=215&dVeh=dVeh&ra=searchTiresByVehicleAndSize.do&tc=MTAVL8&tt=false&yr=1995&pc=38090&vid=006384&sw=false Looking at these... thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 The majority of Pathfinders came with 235/75/15 or 31/10.50/15. It should say on your door sticker. You can fit 31's, and its a nice upgrade. The tires you listed are actually smaller than stock at 215/75/15. Bf Goodrich A/T's are a good all around choice, can't go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) The majority of Pathfinders came with 235/75/15 or 31/10.50/15. It should say on your door sticker. You can fit 31's, and its a nice upgrade. The tires you listed are actually smaller than stock at 215/75/15. Bf Goodrich A/T's are a good all around choice, can't go wrong. Oops yea I meant to select 235/75/15's... thanks what are some bigger sizes that I can get to make them taller? 235/80/15's? I love the square looking tires not so much the round doughnut looking tires...or i may just stick to OEM to save on gas. Edited February 26, 2013 by enkrypt3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 It's not too bad. It took my uncle and me a couple hours to do, and much of that was because we had to bleed the lines afterwards. Check your MC, if it's got black greasy crap all over it it's likely the problem (mine was leaking from a plug on the driver's side). Also check your brake lines and wheel cylinders, because it may be leaking somewhere else. That said the fluid level falls under normal use as the brake pads wear. If you don't see any indication of leaking fluid just top it up and check it periodically to see if the fluid level is stable. (And check your brake pads!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 so if I want a bit wider tire to look a tiny bit more aggressive, should I do 245/75/15 and still be squarish? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 It's really the tread design that imparts the look, not the size. For example, BFG A/T KO And the BFG M/T KM2... Those are by the same manufacturer, simply A/T VS M/T, and they have totally different appearances regardless of the tread pattern. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks guys! I'll probably stick to OEM sizes.... Now I noticed my tachometer isn't working - it just sits around 1k-2k and does nothing.... it doesn't really bother me much so its not a huge issue.... Also there's some cracking and crunching noises when I'm taking tight turns - are my wheel bearings shot? It also does the same when I'm reversing and braking so I think its the rear brakes are toast too...... so many things to fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Could be a number of things, including your CV joints if the hubs are locked up. If it only happens while you're moving the wheel, you've got crud in behind the steering wheel it where the cruise control/horn sliders are. The tachs do that apparently... haven't had any trouble with mine but apparently cleaning up the solder and tightening the brass nuts brings them back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 You need to grease your steering stops. If you look at the lower control arm you'll see the little metal tab where the part of the steering knuckle hits it. Just smear some grease on there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 thanks everyone for their help! I bought this: http://www.calmini.com/detail.php?b=1&m=3&t=10&p=627&n= I'm hoping it will help my sloppy steering... ok now I'm guessing the "idler arm" is the equivalent to the drop links for the sway bars on a sports car correct? And why do idler arms go bad? Also replacing the passenger side will do what vs replacing the drivers side idler arm? And should I stick to OEM or beef it up? I know thats a mouthful just trying to tighten things up thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Your sloppy steering could be any number of things. Tie rod ends, center link,idler arm, pit man arm. The center links are the weak point wheeling, but for regular street use it may be time to freshen up all your steering components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 The rocker switch is completely off, impact off, and impact on. You can adjust the impact settings on the brain, which is under the driver seat. That Calmini kit is nice, but I believe there is an issue if you ever need to replace the bushings. Most of the people who wheel heavily (that haven't gone SAS) install a better center link from http://grassroots4x4.com/ Im about to send a core in and buy one because I don't wheel that hard or much and mine (which was new 8 months ago) is starting to get sloppy. Did you get yours yet? Should I order this one for my 95? http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=5&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29&vmcchk=1&Itemid=29 It seems fairly easy to install - DIY? and does it have to be on a lift? thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 (edited) The idler isn't part of the sway bar, it's steering, and it keeps the centerlink in line. There's no driver's side idler, just the steering box with a similar arm on it. They go bad because they're 18 years old and they've got a lot of force on them. Mine's got a full front end job (ball joints, idler, centerlink, TREs, the alignment shop said it needed 'em all so it got 'em all) and it still feels a bit sloppy. I'm thinking I'll check the alignment next... nothing is visibly loose or I'd be pointing at the steering box. A lift would make things easier! But not necessary so much, so long as you've got jacks/jackstands/no problem lying in the driveway. You might also look into the steering system Tungsten worked up a while back using the 2WD Hardbody centerlink. It looked a little odd but apparently holds up pretty well. Edited March 5, 2013 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Update: I added some brake fluid and the ABS and BRAKE lights went away and I noticed an immediate improvement in braking response... no leaks detected around the master cylinder but the cap for the resivoir doesn't want to thread onto the res...... its not loose but I'd rather have it tightened down... anyways I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COB1ES/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F399JA/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYMMZO/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00386ZLCU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CK5KR6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C6ZW9G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYMMZO/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i04?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This should be a vast improvement with the new brakes, front sway bar bushings & rancho shocks..... thoughts? I still need to get parts for the timing belt change and all the other belts / spark plugs, wires & distributor... might also need a new alternator but not sure yet.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Does anyone know what the size of the front sway bars are? is it 20mm or 24mm? Hoping I got the right sized bushing for the front end... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Does anyone know what the size of the front sway bars are? is it 20mm or 24mm? Hoping I got the right sized bushing for the front end... Although its not always right, you can enter the vehicle info in on Amazon at the top of the screen for a product. If you add it to your garage it makes it even easier. Then it will tell you what fits and doesn't. And if it shows up not fitting, you can fall back on that when you make a return. I entered 95 Pathfinder and it said it fit, so I think you should be good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Although its not always right, you can enter the vehicle info in on Amazon at the top of the screen for a product. If you add it to your garage it makes it even easier. Then it will tell you what fits and doesn't. And if it shows up not fitting, you can fall back on that when you make a return. I entered 95 Pathfinder and it said it fit, so I think you should be good! Yea thats what I did but what i dont get is it says many different ones say they fit on amazon so i'm hoping i got the right size... I was comparing it to this video and it looks about the same but that sway bar looks pretty dang thick.... I'll have to go check it out and see if it fits. Do you guys think the new brakes will be an improvement over OEM? (dayum the rotors and drums are heavy!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 So I got all the parts installed and come to find out I need new calipers since the passengerside caliper is leaking....... uhg i was hoping to have this resolved in one visit! I also need a new pitman arm - should I go with Moog or any brand in particular? I pulled out the old spark plugs and they looked like they were coated in rust! haha so this leads me to believe that the timing belt has never been changed.... so new shocks, new rotors, pads, drums, shoes, idler arm, spark plugs and sway bar bushings...man what a difference! I just have to find the calipers, pitman arm... any suggestions? OEM? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Try Rockauto. I just got all my brake parts from them, rotors/calipers/pads/shoes etc. I was surprised with how quick they showed up at my door. You should find the discount code here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26865-rockauto-com-discount-code/ You might try sending a PM to Alkorahil if you want to go OEM for your pitman arm (or calipers for that matter). I'm not sure about the Moog Pitman Arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Now I'm hearing a clunking sound once the new sway bar bushings have been installed. I tried tightening the bolts but I think theres still some play in the sway bar end links... maybe the washers aren't in the right spot? Also if I'm going to replace the pitman arm, should I go ahead and replace the center link and toe links as well? And I noticed there's a bracket where you'd mount a shock absorber on the center link but I have no idea where else it would mount? I noticed too that there's no rock shield.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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