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Needing a guru as my neighnor right about now.


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ok I have google searched, npora searched, nico search, every freakin search I can think of and I am still not certain bc of all I have read. I also checked my 1995 fsm from nicoclub, and the 1995 suppl. fsm, along with the haynes. To save your time and mine as well we'll just talk about the procedures and problems, not the imbasil who jumped into all this blindly. I do not want to start another idle post so my bad, but My 95 4wd xe's throttle stop, distributor placement, Idle screw and tps have all been changed. Not sure if any are correct now. I had the tps set to 1.002 kohm and hard idle would connect top and mid pins when butterfly rested on throttle stop. If I would rotate drum, the resting point resistance was inconsistent every time. close, but different. tps screws were tight so that led to the throttle stop being adjusted. Timing is forsure off, I heard pinging under load and crept home from there. Idle screw by coolant bleeder port has been messed with bc I highly doubt I put it back in exactly right when I cleaned my Idle air control to unstick plunger. btw, I have inductive timing light, multimeter, and a new tps on there now with probly 30 minutes of run time. I need to set throttle stop, idle, timing, and tps. oh great joy.... I also just bought a tach tonight bc I havnt had a working one in 7 years and I have a feeling im about to need it for this. THis is the only vehicle I have and I have to be at work tmrw so please some guru shine you glorious light lol. Im definately at a brick wall.

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Throttle stop should be set so the throttle closes but does not bind inside the bore (the butterfly is taller than the bore) This is always fine from the factory and should never be touched.
Don't use ohms to set your tps that is the throttle position sensor. You actually want the other connector, for the closed throttle position switch.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ec.pdf page 12
set your meter to beep mode and probe pins 2 & 3 with a .030" shim on the throttle stop.

Rotate the TPS until you have a tone when resting on the shim and it should stop if anything thicker is used. This ensures full contact inside the switch when the throttle is closed without the shim.


Now now start your engine warm it up and rev it a few times when warm. unplug the harness for you Idle air solenoid and turn off your a/c (the thing you cleaned) set your desired idle (750-900 is fine) and rev 2-3 times it should come back to your setting in 3-4 seconds or less. while the engine is still hot and Before you plug it back in get out your timing light and set your timing to 15 Degrees BTDC Rev it a few times. Your timing will advance but it will return to normal withing a few seconds of idle

Edited by MY1PATH
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holy crap you are the man! you make it sound so simple lol. So when you say the throttle plate should close but not bind, is there any technical advice on setting that? Would that mean to back out stop screw all the way and then tighten, stopping as soon as the plate moves? I just want to be forsure. and any relearning process? Ive heard a little but not much about that. serious note though, thank you!

Edited by dirtroadpathy1987
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From the factory they are set so precise that they seal watertight without binding at all and they stay that way untouched for the life of the vehicle.
Such accuracy is not really necessary so just back it out until the throttle just barely starts to stick and then tighten it 1/2 turn and set the lock nut. Let it snap shut from half throttle a few times to make sure it does not sick when you open it again. That will get you close enough for everything else to work the way it should.

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update time.... I set throttle stop, hard idle with .670 mm shim and it wont engage idle signal with .72 mm shim so id say thats good, timing was only 2 deg. off.... it was at 13 btdc and idle was pretty low. It idles with no bogging now but my surging is still pissing me off. The actual motor is just sounding rough. almost like its camming. I double checked tooth count on t belt and tensioner and all is right in that area. Im leaning towards electrical problems. The new tach shows that it gets an on signal by moving to 0, but the signal from port 2 (white) on ecu is dead is guess. tach doesnt reflect rpms... The dizzy is on my mind, maybe internal or wiring going to/from. Some days, it sounds like the dizzy area has a slight whine to it. sounds electrical though not mechanical. and get this, timing light was going dim when it was idleing but when id rev it, the light would get bright like supposed to. im thinking that reflects the electrical issues somewhere but I dont know if its ecu, dizzy, harness, tcu..... I cant keep throwing parts at it. local pull a part doesnt have a 95 or compatible year model either that isnt stripped. for now, I guess its dig into the dizzy time and see if its sending/getting correct signals. I remember seeing too that all the engine control harnesses had corrosion in them too when i took off the intake for the 1000000th time. I used cleaner and dielectric to get rid of all that with no noticable running difference also. Anybody got a good ecu that will work for my truck? Id love to gut all emmisions and make it way more simple with less sensors so an ecu like that would be ideal..... or one I can tune and put it in beast mode. I have paypal and can western union if needed lol. I wish I had another ecu/ complete wiring haness/tcu/1995 pathfinder to just start swapping things around till it was right again. Im tired of keeping everything silent while driving to try and listen for issues. I wanna just take her out and drive her like a mad hatter untill she blows up lol. well theres my venting for today, anybody with experience with complete/intermittent/exponential electrical and mechanical failures hit me up with advice. If your just gonna talk out of the side of your neck though, no thank you, I have cows in the field if I want to hear it splatter. Have a good one yall! look forward to the replies!

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