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My AC lift is all done. Sitting pretty on 33"s.


snow4me
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rocky2 i just have on quick quick note the quote u pulled out from the nx4 website is for the middle mount spacers i believe are friend with the extremely sexy rig has a top mount spacer which as i believe would not add to top out issues its like a really small subframe drop spacer it wouldn't extend the stroke of the strut up it would just more of move the whole assembly down right?

 

http://www.nx4industries.com/spacerinfo.html

 

now on the issue of alignment the spacer should affect it but to say sloting the hole is bad has no validity

Edited by shoesandsocks
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rocky2 i just have on quick quick note the quote u pulled out from the nx4 website is for the middle mount spacers i believe are friend with the extremely sexy rig has a top mount spacer which as i believe would not add to top out issues its like a really small subframe drop spacer it wouldn't extend the stroke of the strut up it would just more of move the whole assembly down right?

 

http://www.nx4industries.com/spacerinfo.html

 

now on the issue of alignment the spacer should affect it but to say sloting the hole is bad has no validity

I stand corrected my good friend!!

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Thinking of elongating the top hole in the strut like Rocky2 did, just don't know how much.

 

You're gonna cut towards the inside where there's plenty of material not towards the outside of the knuckle attachment area. You want the top of the knuckle to move in towards the wheel well, it will make more sense when you yank the strut out again.

 

Also mke sure the top hat or strut bearing cap is clocked correctly in relation to the lower spring perch when assembled. If this is not done correctly the angle of the strut gets funky. It's in the Haynes manual Ch. 10-10 refer to illustration 6.11 and 6.12

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As projekz says, If you elongate the holes you won't need camber bolts. I bought new Nissan bolts when I removed my spacers, the camber bolts look like puny little tonka toy bolts compared with the OEM bolts! I know people have run them for years with no problems but I'm just a bit leery. As I said before, I could not get rid of my positive camber after the spacer install, even with 2 camber bolts, I never thought about elongating the top hole. As far as I know (Carfax report) my truck has never been bashed so I don't think it's the same issue as snow4me.

 

As I also mentioned, I measured the CV angle with the spacers installed & the wheel off the ground, strut fully extended, it was under 30 degrees (can't remember exactly) & Nissan recommends 33 degrees max according to my research.

 

Even though it gets a little "heated" at times :laugh: this debate is really interesting. I wish I'd read stuff like this before I'd done my lift. Having done the lift & the spacers & experienced some of the issues, I'm totally with rocky2, SFD (not hard to do, eases the CV angle), strut rod extension (should stop top out) & elongated top hole (cures positive camber) is the way to go. I wish I'd done all this when I installed my lift. :itsallgood:

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Welp, talked to the alignment guy again. He wants me to put the stock bolts back in and temporarily remove the NX4 spacers until the front settles. He wants to elongate the strut holes himself. Trying to decide if I should leave the spacers in, do the stock bolts and elongate the struts myself and go somewhere else for the alignment. He says that elongating the slots too much could bring me too much negative camber if you don't do it in small increments. Dunno.

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Welp, talked to the alignment guy again. He wants me to put the stock bolts back in and temporarily remove the NX4 spacers until the front settles. He wants to elongate the strut holes himself. Trying to decide if I should leave the spacers in, do the stock bolts and elongate the struts myself and go somewhere else for the alignment. He says that elongating the slots too much could bring me too much negative camber if you don't do it in small increments. Dunno.

 

He's mistaken again.

 

No matter how elongated the top bolt hole is you can set the camber angle at "O" or wherever you prefer, + or - in any direction you want. The whole idea of elongating is to get zero or negative, you got no problems reaching positive camber at this point, do you? You don't want the hole to limit the adjustment that's what you got now. If it is longer it is adjustable in either direction.

I like mine set at dead nuts toe with alittle negative camber. Tracks better going straight and feels better in the corner. Plus it looks better. IMO

 

Good Luck and post those pics. Alot of them please!!

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Don't remove the spacers, just remove the strut, elongate the hole & go to a different alignment guy. :aok: The elongated hole means that you can adjust out any positive camber, provided that the hole is elongated in the correct direction (towards the body to correct positive camber). You already have too much positive camber so how is this going to give you too much negative camber? You just don't adjust it too far. This alignment guy should know that. :thumbsdown:

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Before we throw him to the wolves, heres his thinking... Take the spacers out for a few months and let the springs settle. Run it with the stock bolts up to his shop. What he'll do is remove the upper bolt and just loosen the lower. After that, he sets the camber and then grinds away the strut material until the top bolt slips in. He says, this way if the front end comes down hard the upper bolt hole couldn't move to the negative. In a nut shell, the lower strut hole is stock and the upper hole is only elongated just enough to get it within spec. After the truck settles, put the spacers back in and make the fine adjustments.

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Gotta Love the AC's

 

We got you !

 

You're a R50 modifying NPORA member now, let us know when you decide to go with a SFD.

 

The likelihood of the knuckle moving when coming down hard is minimal. Unless you plan on jumping the thing. The hole is elongated in the horizontal plane. Tighten up the bolts use lock washers and run it like you rented it!

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Hard to doubt a guy that owns his own shop but I'm going to. Ordered new bolts and nuts, will have them on Friday. Gonna pop the bolts out of the spindles and elongate the holes as suggested. Thinking if I put my jack stands as close to being under the ball joints, I can put my level along the rotor and zero the camber out as much as possible.

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I must've missed it but what're the new bolts and nuts for?

 

What's the R/L camber exactly? Believe it or not as opposed to the toe setting .5 to 1deg camber difference in relation to the other side is not earth shattering but 1/16" toe is.

 

Also I would leave the spacers in because when you remove and reinstall them you'll most likely change the angles and you'll need another alignment. The springs settling will do this too but minimally.

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I find this issue really odd.. Has anyone actually figured out why some people cant fix the positive camber issues while others can? For example, my Pathy is a 2000 with AC and NX4 spacer and my mechanic had no problems doing an alignment with two camber bolts per side. Then there others, like Theexbrit who drives a 1996 and had the positive camber issue, and then now Snow4me's is a 2001 and has the same problem. Whats different between all these vehicles?!

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2 of the 4 bolts were in there before the lift had been modified and 1 of the 2 good factory bolts has got up and walked off so I have 1 correct one left. The 4 new bolts I put in when I did the lift are the adjustable camber bolts but they aren't adjusting it enough to correct my camber.

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I find this issue really odd.. Has anyone actually figured out why some people cant fix the positive camber issues while others can? For example, my Pathy is a 2000 with AC and NX4 spacer and my mechanic had no problems doing an alignment with two camber bolts per side. Then there others, like Theexbrit who drives a 1996 and had the positive camber issue, and then now Snow4me's is a 2001 and has the same problem. Whats different between all these vehicles?!

 

I don't know for sure if it would really affect things but rocky 2 mentioned about the orientation of the top strut hat vs. the lower spring perch. I certainly didn't pay attention to mine when I installed my OME lift. Maybe I got lucky but I could swear the setup was keyed/slotted so you couldn't get the orientation wrong??

 

I've been thinking about getting 1" spacers for both the front and the back to give my "small" OME lift a little boost.

Edited by stioc
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I find this issue really odd.. Has anyone actually figured out why some people cant fix the positive camber issues while others can? For example, my Pathy is a 2000 with AC and NX4 spacer and my mechanic had no problems doing an alignment with two camber bolts per side. Then there others, like Theexbrit who drives a 1996 and had the positive camber issue, and then now Snow4me's is a 2001 and has the same problem. Whats different between all these vehicles?!

 

 

I know, right? I have not one problem with my camber, struts, cv axels, etc., etc.

 

I have been lurking the different points of view on my (AC + NX4) set up versus the SFD. As long as I don't have any issues I plan on keeping my current set up. tomato.gif

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The NX4 spacer holes are off set, they can only go on one way I believe. Someone said the Canadian maple leaf has to go right way up but I don't see what difference it would make if they were flipped over. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

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