RF600 Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I have a 95 with the tire carrier on back. I just put on the proper sized tires and it need to be lifted some to make it look proper. I have been reading a lot about lifting the wd21. Most people are lifting 2"-3". I only want 1"-1 1/2". I have the .550 jgc springs. Which I think will give me the right lift. I do have a couple questions. 1. Do I need to worry about rear pan hard bar being not parallel to the axle? 2. Will this effect the ball joint angle on the control arm? 3. Is it better to crank on the stock torsion bars or get new ones? I know they will have to be re indexed. I have already cranked on them some to pick up the saggy front end. I have read that ball joint angle isn't affected until you go with a 2" or higher lift. Has anyone had issues with a small lift? I think I will be ok. I need some reassurance from some of you who have experience with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 IMO, this is what I would do. 1. Put on the JGC springs you have, see if that gives you the right amount of lift. 2. Adjust torsion bars accordingly 3. Party like a Rockstar There are a fair amount of people around here that crank 3 and have no aftermarket UCA's and really have no ill effects, so I think you will be find with what you are doing. As for the torsion bars, the only reason I would get different ones would be aftermarket (Sway-a-Ways) would be for the higher spring rates. I think your stock torsions are fine for what you are doing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 your torsion bars will be fine, and I see no reason you would have any issues with ball joint angles or the ability to allign the front end correctly since you only want to crank 1-1.5" over stock (as stated people get away with more than that without issues, I personally had mine cranked hard for a wHile before getting my hands on some UCAs) I would advise against partying like a rock star though, I prefer a clean head (well coffee don't count) when working on my truck and while driving around on the victory ride from completing something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 Thanks guys. My rockstar party days are over. Not as much fun as it used to be. Plus it takes a little longer to recover now that I am a bit older. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 ^understatement! I have a 2 inch lift installed and recommend you don't worry about the .5" of difference. If you can't get past it, you could have someone turn down the blocks on a lathe (or mill), but again I see no reason to do so. Be warned though, I punched 2 holes in my chassis with bolts that were longer than needed (came with the 2 inch lift) by the passenger foot area. I documented all of this in the lift install thread. Let me know if you can't find it and I'll try. Do you do a lot of wheeling? If not, at 2" you shouldn't have an issue with the ball joints... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Precise1 I searched your used name and nothing came up. What section did you put it in? I don't do a lot of off road. Maybe a couple times a year in the snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I thought it was in the Garage/How To: Installing a body lift type thread, but... I'll find it tomorrow and post the link. The less wheeling you do the less ball joint angle will be an issue, up to a point realistically. Occasional snow (Tahoe?) really shouldn't cause problems. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) On the other side of the mountain from Tahoe. My dad lives up hwy 70. I see your post. If it was a snake I would have died. Edited November 19, 2012 by RF600 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Beautiful country up there. LOL Glad you found it. Let me know if you need any more info... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 I have read through the lift spring thread many times now. Has anyone installed the .50 springs that has info on how much it lifted it? I am figuring it will be the 1" to 1 1/2" I want. The spring diameter is .546 on the springs I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 I must have missed something when reading the lift spring thread before. The springs I have should give me the 1" to 1 1/2" lift I am looking for. Still if anyone has any pics please post them or let me know where I can go to see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 This doesn't directly answer you, but it may help. Go to the Member's Rides section and look to see who has a lift height you prefer and ask them what they used to achieve it. I'm sure you will have better luck getting the information that way. I have the .550 jgc springs Throw them in and see what you get. If it is more than you want, cut some off, reinstall and see what you get. Measure the free length, the compressed length and the amount you cut off if it is still too tall. With this info you will be able to calculate how much more to remove. The most detailed information was in a thread by k9sar IIRC where he 'charts' many spring diameters, is that the one you are looking at? I can dig up a spring rate calculator if you like, they are pretty simple; a coil spring is just a coiled linear bar spring. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 I read through the thread where a few guys talk springs and rates. Most of it does not compute. I understand the basics though. I'm trying to get as much info as i can so I can hopefully have no suprises. It is pretty straight forward. I am not worried about not being able to do it. My next concern is the pan hard bar. I have not decieded whether to redo the axle side or body side mount. I like the idea of raising the roll center. I will have to look at things and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Just trying to help. As for the pan hard bar, with such a minor lift I wouldn't worry about it. It if bugs you to see (that it isn't level) you want to drop the frame side. It's easier, stronger and the factory geometry... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 And you can aquire a pre made bracket from GrandpaX and read Dowsers how to thread on the install for a frame side panhard drop bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Yes, but that is for a 3" lift and he only wants 1-2"... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Ahh yes, wonder if the design could also be modified for 2" as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 I doubt the bar would be off that much. That may be something I would address after I get the lift on. There is a little bit of room to redrill a new hole and move the bar a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Nunya, do you have info on GrandpaX's panhard bracket? About 2 to 2 1/2" suspension here since I cranked it down, formerly cranked to 3," along with 3" body. I did quick search attempt, and didn't see anything. I wonder if this would finally cure my rig. Nobody suggested something like that after the lift years ago, then I put in a rear locker and have run the setup for 6-7 years or so. I went back and replaced the upper rear links from the junk yard a year ago or so, after the bushings where toast and I had a TON of slop in general in the rear. The lower links and bushing still feel tight, as does the panhard link, but I've always had a kinda harsh side-too-side torque pull upon shifting or hitting the go pedal, which I've been battling for a bit. I put in new shocks last summer, along with sway bar links and bushings, which helped a bit. I could imagine the geometry change could twist things up a bit easily for the panhard after lift and lock, now that I think about it. LOL the learning curve. I've only rolled this thing 10 years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Howdy Mr P! Pan hard drops have been around for at least 6 years so if you came around more, you'd know all about them. As for GrandpaX, the search function works wonders... Ok, fine, you lazy Pickle! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33308-panhard-drop-bracket/ B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 I hit a snag.After i got the jgc springs in the passenger side was sitting about 1" higher. I had everything disconnected that I thought would hold it up. I tried clocking the spring. I even took a little more off of the spring to put in a better position. Still no help. I switched the springs side to side and the same thing. I searched and was not able to find any answers. I did re index the tortion bars and put new dust boots on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 One thing I noticed after the springs were in is that they were bowed some. Probably around 1/2" or less away from the shock. Is that normal? I'm not really familiar with coil spring lifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 I have been talking with precise1 and I think we have figured out what is going on. Well he figured out what is going on. Thanks B for the help. I will post up pics when after the springs are installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Ahh yes, wonder if the design could also be modified for 2" as well... Nope. Because it needs to be wider where it projects from the original bracket. At 2" the bolt will need to go through at about the level of the bottom of the original bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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