Cruise Control Does not work

[brc19761]

I have always wanted a 94-95 Nissan Pathfinder b/c all I have ever owned are Nissan Hardbody pickups. I like the 94-95 models b/c my current 1997 Nissan Hardbody 4x4 has the same dashbord. Also the 1995 Nissan Pathfinders and older are built on a frame unlike the newer unibody design. I just purchased my 1994 pathfinder LE about a month ago.

 

Well a little info on my 1994 Pathfinder LE. It has 75,000 original miles the interior looks brand new. It has all the bells and whistles. Leather, heated seats, sunroof, auto locking hubs. Mostly things that I don't need and will tear up . The only thing that was wrong with it was the front bumper was dented in pretty bad. I bought a new bumper and brackes and istalled it myself.

 

When I first purchased the Pathfinder about a month ago on the interstate going home I began to test and come familar with all the buttons and gadjets. On the way home the cruise worked fine. Several trips hear and there after I got home cruise still worked fine.

Now all of a sudden after I put the new bumper on it quits.

 

You can push the green button on the dash and it lights up but when you push the set button on the steering wheel no cruise and the cruise control light on the instrument panel does not light up. No blown fuses. I am aware that the cruise is some how linked in with the turn signals and headlights and they all work fine. I have gotton a diagram or instructions as to where the cruise contron module is underneath the dash and where the ascd plugs into the brake pedal. I cheked the vacum lines to the throttle they are fine. I took apart the switch on the steering wheel and just cleaned it and that did nothing. I am aware that there is a cable that attaches to transmission.

 

My question is what do I need to check and see if all the components I listed above works. I feel that it has to be something electrical b/c the cruise control worked before I installed the new bumber and now it doesn't work. Right now all I have is a test light but I can get other electrical tools if needed.

 

Any advice would be appreciated and I am glad to be a new member.

[Alkorahil]

I would check to see if the ASCD cancel switch and Brake Pedal switch are working properly and that both of the rubber stoppers for pins on these two switches are intack on the pedals. The stoppers are know to deteriorate when the vehicels reach 10-12 years and shatter leaving the switches in the open position.

 

The actual cruise control solenoid runs on a vacuum. Check the hoses on it and that the linkage running from the servo to the throttle body is still connected.

Check your harness connectors to the servo in the engine bay as well for damage and poor connectivity.

[brc19761]

I checked all of the connections to the brake pedal, the cruise control module, vaccum lines. I think I may have a clue as to why the cruise may not be working. The door's open icon has been flickering on the dash board even though all the doors are closed. When you hit a pot hole or rough road it flickers even more. So, I assumed a short. But driving the Pathfinder today I noticed all the flickering would stop when I applied the brakes. I am betting this is messing up the cruise control. But I just don't know how to fix it.

 

brc

Edited September 7, 2012 by brc19761

[Slartibartfast]

The flickering door light is usually the rear hatch sensor. Apparently you can shim it or something.

 

If that doesn't help, check the contacts behind the steering wheel. Mine were so gunked up that the horn didn't even work.

[brc19761]

Yea I searched the forum about the flickering lights. Just went outside and shimmed the back rear door lock with washers. Drove it donwn the road and no more light flickering. BOY THE FORUM IS GOOD . So, I will just have to keep trying and working the cruise control. I really don't use cruise control. This is actually the first vehicle I've owned that has it. I just like having everthing work especially when it worked a few weeks ago. I guess it's just an OCD thing.

[brc19761]

You were right the ascd rubber stopper was missing. I took the one out of my 1997 Nissan Hardbody 4x4 (the one that works the brake lights). Put it in the Pathfinder drove it down the road and cruise worked perfectly. Had to put the rubber stopper back in the Hardbody b/c the brake lights stayed on. I found something around the shop to replace the rubber stopper in the Pathfinder. Just got back from town had to hit the interstate and the cruise worked perfectly.

 

I really wanted to thank you so much for your advice. I never would have guessed it would be something as simple as a rubber stopper.

 

Thanks,

 

brc

Edited September 8, 2012 by brc19761

[p51speed]

Just curious as my cruise in my 87 doesn't work. What is am ASCD ?

 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[ahardb0dy]

ASCD = Automatic Speed Control Device = cruise control

[Alkorahil]

You were right the ascd rubber stopper was missing. I took the one out of my 1997 Nissan Hardbody 4x4 (the one that works the brake lights). Put it in the Pathfinder drove it down the road and cruise worked perfectly. Had to put the rubber stopper back in the Hardbody b/c the brake lights stayed on. I found something around the shop to replace the rubber stopper in the Pathfinder. Just got back from town had to hit the interstate and the cruise worked perfectly.

 

I really wanted to thank you so much for your advice. I never would have guessed it would be something as simple as a rubber stopper.

 

Thanks,

 

brc

 

 

I have been doing this a long time......

I get this problem herea about once a week for brake lights or ASCD.....seems after 10-12 years or so the stoppers implode from wear and tear. Sometimes we get lucky and its a simple thing causeing the problem!

 

FYI the nissan part number you need is:

46512-H0101 RUBBER-STOPPER

[ahardb0dy]

the ones in my 90 sentra looked like beige lifesaver candies, the new replacements were a green material. I just gave my last one to my neighbor for his xterra, probably should order a few to keep as extras

[MadMax2]

I don't understand, they fail after 10-12 years and they are replaced with the same part? I had many honda's come in with tail lights "stuck" on, I installed bolt/lock nut and never worried about it again. I've done this on my own vehicles too, never had a issue, I have not climbed under my pathfinders dash yet to see if if its a bolt/nut application but even if it wasn't there has to be a better solution. I believe they used these plastic inserts to get people to come to repair shops and to save on manufacturing time/material costs.

 

[Alkorahil]

The replacements they have now are made out of nylon instead or plastic.

there are only two different sizes, green (as mentioned above) and the clear one.

[MrEviLDeD]

Does the A.S.C.D also depend upon the Neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal?

What are the part numbers for those switches (the ones on the clutch pedal and the ones on the brake pedal) I went looking but the part returned has a connector that does not match my 93's.

[Hytekrednek]

Just called my Nissan dealer and asked for a price quote on the part number for the rubber stopper. I was quoted $8.16 ea while this same part from where Alkorahil works is $2.51 ea. Man my dealer is ripping people off on parts prices. That is an enormous markup even over the MSRP of the item of $3.40 ea.

 

James

[Precise1]

FYI, if I need/want a dealership part, I go straight to Alkorahil. His prices are so much lower than the local Stealership, the difference is almost criminal. I get mark ups and needing to make a profit, but past a certain point I find it to simply be insulting...

 

B

[Hytekrednek]

Yep. I will now only get parts that are nissan from him. I wonder what they would say if I told them that the MSRP of the part was and asked why they want so much more for it?

 

James

[Trogdor636]

The best part about Alkorahil is he will let you know when its not worth it to get it from him. Normally when the shipping cost is more than the part itself on smaller items, like the sunshade locks I needed.

[Precise1]

Yep, he is a honest, stand up guy.

 

Yep. I will now only get parts that are nissan from him. I wonder what they would say if I told them that the MSRP of the part was and asked why they want so much more for it?

 

James

You would probably hear a combination of 3 things: Superior quality, overhead costs of running the Stealership, and 'where else are you going to get it'.

 

I refuse to go to my local dealership any more as the guy who seems to run the parts counter is a surly, condecending jerk. Even if they had the same prices, they have lost my business. I've owned 4 Nissan 4x4s in 20+ years now, currently have 2 in the driveway, bought one for a friend in need and steered his BIL into buying a R50. I'm not the customer you want to drive away...

 

B

[Slartibartfast]

Yep. I will now only get parts that are nissan from him. I wonder what they would say if I told them that the MSRP of the part was and asked why they want so much more for it?

 

James

"You'd have to ask the boss, he makes the decisions... no, he's not here."

[Alkorahil]

Thank you for the kind words and votes of confidence.

 

 

 

I am not defending any of the dealers mentioned, but some of it has to do with geography.

According to the Dept of Commerce the Dallas/FtWroth metroplex is the most competative market in the US for dealerships, which forces prices down to compete. TX also has very low taxes for businesses, no state income tax and lower cost of living. I see some of you are in CA, with higher taxes business have to pay and higher cost of living, all of this is passed on to the consumer.

In short, some of them may just be forced to do it because of where they are located. Some of them also do have the attitudes mentioned. Some of them are also the only game in town and do not feel the need and some just dont 'get it.'

 

We are helping ppl out on here with their vehicles. Partially because I hate seeing peopel get rapped, and I love these trucks. But from a business sense....most all here are not in our geographic sales area.....so getting $1 is better than the $0 we should normal expect to get from somone 1000+/- miles away.

 

But we benefit here and they suffer so......

[PamPoovey]

I found you guys because of this thread and it has been extremely helpful and I want to contribute just in case for others who are struggling....

 

4 years ago, the horn stopped working on my 95 Pathfinder, and like one said about the copper "pins" and the steering wheel contact area being dirty, was true, but what not only fixed the horn but also got the cruise control to work, was readjusting that part so that that the pins were making proper contact. The cruise control began woring then, too.

 

Of course, I kept thinking this would fix the cruise if that part was replaced, nope.

 

And then the cruise stopped working, the horn has continued to work to this day. Not driving any more than 45 min at a time for my longest stretches, it didn't matter. But this Friday, I am moving to Ohio and of course the cruise control will be greatly appreciated being that I am the only driver in the vehicle.

 

The vacuum hose on the back of the actuatorl was cracked, but it didn't seem like that was the issue, but replaced the hose anyways.

 

So these switches http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BA00/2011733/01967.oap?year=1995&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&vi=1212017&ck=Search_01967_1212017_2655&categoryRedirect=01967&pt=01967&ppt=C0039# located above the break and for me, the clutch (the plug is brown, in the pic it looks gray) so taking the one off the break that matches the same colour plastic as on the clutch, one rattled, but both, when taking apart, had broken copper pieces in it. The blue one on the brake was taking apart, was fine and intact. Next, we used a small piece of bailing wire for each danging plug and made a conduit (each one looping back into itself but on the other slot on the same plug) took a test drive and BOOM! Cruise control works!

 

I'm sorry if my detail is a little dull, I'm sure there is someone who wasn't quite sure what they were doing that could benefit from this information.

[KILLANOLA]

Hi

I read this thread and went to look for the dime size rubber piece and I see one but there is a whole to next that one that is empty. Should there be 2 of these rubber pieces next to each other?

I had the rubber piece replaced a few years back when the brake lights stayed on. And can't remeber if that when my cruise control went out also. But the cruise control is not working.

Please help Thanks

[92Path_68CJ]

Yes there should be two of them. One affects the brake lights, as you said. The other lets the cruise control stuff know the brakes aren't on.

[KILLANOLA]

Thanks popped in the plastic piece ($7.95) and wham Cruise control back on thanks to you guys

[ThaBigPerm]

I don't understand, they fail after 10-12 years and they are replaced with the same part? I had many honda's come in with tail lights "stuck" on, I installed bolt/lock nut and never worried about it again. I've done this on my own vehicles too, never had a issue, I have not climbed under my pathfinders dash yet to see if if its a bolt/nut application but even if it wasn't there has to be a better solution. I believe they used these plastic inserts to get people to come to repair shops and to save on manufacturing time/material costs.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nuj9o6YdO8A

 

+1. I just had the (dis)pleasure of going out to my Pathy after several days of sitting to discover the battery was dead. Not "click click click" when I tried to start it, I mean stone cold dead. And she has a new battery and alternator already. So, after jumping her and discovering I'd not left the dome lights on as I had hoped, I worried I had a mystery short somewhere. Until I walked 'round the back while she was idling and saw the brake lights on. On the floor mat on the driver's side were crumbled plastic pieces ... inspect under the brake pedal and of course - those little plastic buttons had disintegrated. Quick trip to Home Depot, grabbed a pair of 5/16" bolts, 3/4" long, a pair of flat washers, lock washers and nuts. It's all working again.