SES Code P1140

[mbra66]

As per the suggestion of another member I am starting this post. I have a 2001 Path SE I just bought 2 weeks ago. Prior to my purchase, SES light was on, but I also knew muffler was trashed and thought that the stumble or surging during test drive were related. First thing I got off Ebay was part no. 283-713 ( Bosal center muffler with pipes to cats and rear muffler for $107.44). It was exactly what I needed to fix mine and a super value w/free ship. I installed the system, vehicle was now quiet....but still bogging especially around 2500 rpms where it would jerk violently. Uh oh did I make a big mistake? Did some research and went to Autozone to have SES light checked......Mass Air, P1140 so did more research because M/Air at local nissan was $300 part. I bought proper cleaner pulled M/Air and cleaned it real well, plus since I was already removing the intake boot, I did a real thorough cleaning of the Throttle body w Throttle cleaner, I don't like doing things twice whenever possible. Unfortunately it did not change the vehicles condition and I still could not get the truck past 2500 rpms w/out losing my teeth. So I learned that Nissan built a safety into vehicle which was probably tripped by the bad Mass/Air and stopping me from reving past 2500. Lucky when I learned about the safety, I also learned that 2001 Maxima Mass/Air part no. 22680-2y001 is same part as Pathfinder, and on Ebay i found it for $ 89.95 again w free ship. I should mention that I always try to use OEM for anything I do, there are cheaper parts out there, but after many frugal purchases on many cars over the years, I find that OEM makes me feel better and more secure. Well the M/Air turned out to be one of those purchases that really brings a feeling of satisfaction. My Pathfinder now accelerated past 2500 rpms w ease and was pretty quick. There was a sigh of relief that I didn't buy a lemon, but the SES light was still on. I went back to Autozone and M/Air code was gone, but P1140 still was. Well went back to Google and did reserach on the code. There was a lot of info on code but the solutions did not make me feel as confident as I was on M/Air. The code led me to the Passenger side VTC Sensor which is identical to the sensor on Drivers side which puts out code P1145 when bad. Many people will switch the sensors to make sure the problem follows the sensor, but I was getting tired of working on this truck and took a chance by just purchasing the oem sensor, discounted of course by same Nissan dealer who sold M/Air. Well luck ran out because P1140 code did not go away, even after resetting light a few times. I now am somewhat desperate since my Temp Inspection from DMV has run out. I don't have money to waste at this time, this is why I am trying to do anything I can myself, but I also don't want to change EVERY sensor on this thing. My Local Nissan gave me such over the top prices for the above mentioned items that going there means I will probably need a second job.....a local mechanic said I should check the Crankshaft Position sensor, and online many have spoken about fresh Oil, which is correct on dip stick but not clear. I am going to research the "recommended" downloadable manual which I should have already done, but wasn't able to find a free copy, and didn't think I would really need it. ANY ADVICE WILL BE TOTALLY APPRECIATED....I WILL POST UPDATES....I AM VERY FRUSTRATED......I AM NOT A MECHANIC, JUST A HANDY GUY, LOW ON DOUGH, TRYING TO MAKE A 10YEAR + TRUCK WORK FOR ME. THANKS

[Towncivilian]

P1140 is not the MAF sensor. It's a camshaft position sensor code. Your dealership is incompetent. See this: www.jensbits.com/2008/08/30/pathfinder-ses-light-p1145-and-p1140/

[Howie]

You're doing so well. Don't give up! P1140 and P1145 are common codes on these vehicles, and refer to the intake valve timing control sensor (or solenoid). P1145 is the left side and P1140 is the right side. Use the factory service manual to locate these sensors. They're easy to get to at the front of the engine bay and remove with just unscrewing one bolt. Switch them. If you now have P1145 instead of P1140, then you know the problem is with the sensor. If it stays P1140, then the problem is with the solenoid.

 

I haven't replaced the solenoids (only the sensors, and on mine I had to do both). The sensors are about $60 from either Rockauto or Amazon.

 

If you're handy with a multimeter, you can check functionality of the sensor itself. Again, the service manual will help you here, but basically it has you check the terminals in sequence to determine if the circuit shows low resistance or completely open, and depending on your findings you'll know if the sensor itself is bad.

[mbra66]

Hey Towncivilian, I guess I wasn't clear, I know that P1140 AND M/AIR aren't related, I was just giving background info to help others who may have similar issues. I also never took vehicle to DEALER, just went to Parts Counter to get prices.

 

Hey Howie thanks for your encouragement and input, soon as I have some time I am going to read the Manual and get back into this. I already changed the right sensor, but code is same and still there, so it probably means solenoid, but these trucks are not always so logical, especially from all the posts I have read on this problem. For example some people have stated P1140 or P1145 can go off with just a simple OIL CHANGE! Anyway I love your truck it is IDENTICAL TO MINE including the black push bar. Same Exact color only mine has many scratches and rotted side steps.

[RedRider3141]

P1140 is not the MAF sensor. It's a camshaft position sensor code. Your dealership is incompetent. See this: www.jensbits.com/2008/08/30/pathfinder-ses-light-p1145-and-p1140/

 

If I'm reading it right he had two codes, one of the MAF and one for the VTC system. Replacing the MAF eliminated the 2500RPM stumble AND the MAF Code leaving only the P1140. According to the Nissan Manual P1140 can be caused by:

1. I Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control position sensor circuit is open or shorted)
   
2. I Intake valve timing control position sensor.
   
3. I Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
   
4. I Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
   
5. I Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
   

When I went through my troubles with these sensors I went through all my grounds like the manual says, loosen them just enough to break any corrosion and reseat them. I also checked all my connectors in that harness to make sure they where seated all the way and were free of corrosion. I noticed the sensor connectors didn't always want to seat properly 100% of the time. I then went after the IVTC Sensor since that seemed to be the most common fix. I wished I had replaced both to begin with to avoid replacing the solenoid like I did. Anyways, not to get off topic. Since it costs only time I would try switching the sensor. Even if the same P1140 code persists, it still tells you something. It tells you that it's not the sensors and you can move on to try something else.

 

A note on using a meter to check the sensors. I am competent with a multimeter and both of my BAD sensors read the same as the new sensors that worked.

[Towncivilian]

My apologies - I was on my phone and admittedly only skimmed your post. Please use some paragraphs next time for easier readability.

 

I second the suggestion to swap the two sensors (the guide I linked has pictures of their locations) and see if the problem moves (i.e. you get P1145 instead). If so, just replace the sensor and you should be good to go.

 

Welcome to NPORA, by the way!

Edited August 9, 2012 by Towncivilian

[Howie]

Hahahah! Redrider, I think you're right about the multimeter and sensors. I hooked up my multimeter and same thing happened to me. The bad sensor checked out fine, but I replaced it anyway and fixed the problem.

 

Checking the grounds and harness connections is always a good idea before you start replacing parts, and the service manual troubleshooting tells you to do exactly that.

 

It seems like the sensors are more likely to go bad than the solenoids, but I think I remember one guy on here did have to replace a solenoid. At any rate, replacing the sensors is much more common, and thankfully, a lot easier.

 

Mbra66, I like the color, but it wasn't the one I originally wanted. I think I wanted the tan or silver, but now I'm glad I got this one. I've had it since brand-new and have taken really good care of it. These cars are pretty easy to work on. When I was still in the Navy I had access to a hydraulic lift and pretty much any tool you'd need. I dropped the whole transmision and transfer case just to replace the release bearing, which is a $40 part. Saved me about $800 in labor. But it took me 3 days to do it, and the use of a hydraulic lift, transmission jack, and a really long extension to get to the top bolt on the bell housing.

Edited August 9, 2012 by Howie

[5523Pathfinder]

Be sure to check your oil level. Lack of oil, or changes, can cause issues. You can remove the sensors and see if there is any buildup on the face. You can get lucky by just wiping them off, or just replace them and get it over with. Pretty common problem, but not a big deal.

[mbra66]

Hey TOWNCIVILIAN No Problem I am new at posting and will definitely try to do better paragraphs in the future.

 

Hello RedRider thanks for ALL your input, and as you know I am aware of your previous post on a similar problem. I have actually taken a short break on my issue and your previous post, as well as, your reply today are partly the reason. Both you and Howie said that you know how to test sensors and eventhough, this could not be relied on for an answer. Also from your prev post I surely can't count on NISSAN to cure my problem unless I get super lucky or DONALD TRUMP comes with me. As I recall your SES P1145 code ment your vehicle was in need of a NEW VALVE TRAIN at around $5000 because of immense SLUDGE? But lucky for you, your no fool and after your exam not only was engine super clean.....but what was supposedly a good sensor was actually bad, making your repair a $ 4950 savings and for people like me scared to death. I want to fix my truck but with computers and sensors its not always so clear. I keep thinking about all the Path customers that went to Nissan and received a similar diagnosis, and now they are either crazy putting $5000 into a 10 year old truck or they sold it or junked it based on THE GENERALLY ACCEPTED IDEA THAT THE MANUFACTURER KNOWS WHAT THE HECK THEIR DOING!

Look I am very happy your light went out, after you changed the supposed GOOD sensor, but thats not based on Procedure otherwise Nissan should have told you thats what their going to do, or what is a common fix for the codes you had. Sure many people and Dealers with SES codes P1140 or P1145 will change both sensors like I believe TOWNCIVILIAN & HOWIE i think did, but thats based on the commonality that often after changing ONE of the sensors the other one usually goes soon after. Fellow member 5523PATHFINDER mentions OIL Change or LEVEL or Frequency which through a lot of my research may be much more valid than anyone realizes.

As I recall REDRIDER you like me have a vehicle you acquired w HIGH MILEAGE and eventhough you had previousely changed your oil, who's to say how timely was the previous owner with changes and did he/she use quality products consistently. Your prev. post says that yes you changed the other sensor, SES light went out, but you also say, you bit the bullet and changed your recent oil change, AGAIN. Maybe.."just maybe" that shook something loose or your Level was a little higher now..........THEREBY FIXING YOUR SENSORS ABILITY TO WORK AND READ. Hey look as others said you did Great, and your why I am here, but I am not sure that the person I bought my truck from changed the oil CONSISTENTLY or CORRECTLY. He sure did not take care of the exhaust!! Certain deposits or possibly level or quality could be causing my problem. I am not sure I should have even bought & installed the sensor I already did, especially after it did not fix my problem. Some say if u change the P1140 or P1145 sensor and same code comes back it's solenoid, but I read from a Nissan Mechanic that Solenoid issues with these specific SES codes will set the resetted SES light NOT IMMEDIATELY upon START-UP but during vehicle motion or idling for a period, if you clear the SES and it comes on immediately on Start-up it is a SENSOR. .......Anyway this stuff can make you crazy........ I am going to give it another shot on Saturday.........MY Sincere Thanks to All of You....Its real nice to have you all inputting & trying to help.

[Towncivilian]

Shine a flashlight under the oil filler cap and try to see if there is any sludge or build up.

 

Pull one of the IVTC sensors, make sure it doesn't look like this:

 

 

Edited August 10, 2012 by Towncivilian

[Howie]

Holy chit, my sensors did NOT look like that when I pulled them! I'm really glad I've been compulsive about oil changes.

[mbra66]

WOW TOWNCIVILIAN that is one sludgy VTC SENSOR. The right side sensor that I did pull and change actually looked NEW compared to the one your showing.......which after seeing yours I sure am glad it did not look that bad. However I plan on doing a motor flush tomorrow and fresh oil and filter. If that doesn't do anything at least I know thats taken care of. I will take yours and REDRIDING's advice and switch the sensors, to see what that does, and for elimination. Thanks for your Pictures they really show all of us what happens when oil changes are neglected. I have been working on cars for FUN and doing a lot of maintenance on my cars for over 25 years.

 

If there is just ONE THING I could convey and URGE to fellow car guys/gals it is CHANGE YOUR OIL CONSISTENLY AND USE QUALITY OIL. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles religousely. I have a box of these static cling small clear labels that I write my current mileage + 3000 on and put them on the upper left windshield. I don't ever forget, and it has paid off by me never having any MAJOR problems over the 25years. I don't use synthetics because I DON'T NEED TOO, most time my oil looks so clean on dip stick I have trouble seeing it. However my current Pathfinder is a diifferent story, the Economy hurt me bad, and this is the first time I bought and am driving a vehicle thats 10+ years old with 100K. I hope I can figure out why I still got this P1140 soon, I 'll let you know what happens. Keep the posts coming this is all good stuff.

[Towncivilian]

I would advise against using any engine oil additives. Just let the oil do the cleaning. That can of harsh solvents has no place in a crankcase. The oil blenders spent millions in research and development and certification testing for many manufacturers' stringent standards as well as API certification; you can't outsmart them with an $8 "tune up in a can".

[mbra66]

Well its been over a month and although some of you have said to keep with it and its not a big deal to fix, this has not been the case for me, at least, as far as no big deal. I don't blame any of you for your remarks, since at this point I have read at least 50 plus posts on Codes P1140 and P1145, and many people have resolved them easily, but some have not, and thats the group I am in.

 

I ended up taking the advice of switching the sensor from the passenger side to the drivers to see if the code followed the sensor which others have seen happen to them, P1140 becomes a P1145 or vica versa, which ends up just being the purchase of another sensor, I wish that was my case, but it wasn't and i still showed an SES P1140. Also I should mention that although I bought this truck with 98k miles, the oil and what I have been able to see inside the sensor holes with a flashlight seems to be really clean and nothing like what TOWNCIVILIAN previousely showed on his sensors. I also changed the oil and filter to correct level as I hoped would be my solution, NOPE! Well I than decided to check voltages at the sensors pass and drivers and they both checked. I decided to remove the SOLENOID on the pass side. I checked it prior for voltage and it was good, I than ran a test on it to see if it moved and CLICKED when 12 volts was put to it, it WORKED and it was very very clean, no oil crust or anything.

 

Now I was getting upset what the heck is causing the light, I decided to check the ( phase) camshaft position sensor for oil build up and voltage, some people said this sensor sometimes causes the code, IT WAS CLEAN with proper voltage.

 

One of the few posts I read on someone who had the same problem as me, and who also went thru all I did, mentioned he ended up finding crusty oil built up on the camshaft gears (GROOVES) in the holes where the VTC sensors take there readings, by spraying carb cleaner and some SEAFOAM he was able to clean the cam gear which allowed the VTC sensor to read and turned the code off. I checked my gears on both the Passenger and Drivers VTC sensors holes for any build up, but they were clean. I sprayed some cleaner on them anyhow with a straw and used a mirror to check progress on the pass side, which was hard to look into, but like I said it was relatively clean.

 

I also sprayed the heck out of the SOLENOID valve before reinstall just too make sure it was as clean as possible. I then left the battery unhooked for 2 hours to clear computers memory before hooking it back and starting .....NO LIGHT......I was so nervous to shut off and re-start but did it anyway......NO LIGHT!!!!!!! Wow did I fix it.....I was feeling real proud until I started it this morning.....SERVICE ENGINE SOON!#@$%&^*%* Back to the drawing board......ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY ADVICE? Any members actual NISSAN MECHANICS? I am so sick of this, should I bite bullet and let NISSAN DEALER take look, are they going to tell me that I need a new motor, when car drives so perfect, at $90/hour I may have to take a break again, and than give it 1 MORE SHOT. I am beat .......but not dead yet. Stay tuned.

[Towncivilian]

You need to start again following the FSM diagnostic procedure to the letter. If you get to step 10 (check camshaft) and don't have a result, you need to go to the dealer I think. The diagnosis procedure begins on page EC-489 of the factory service manual.

[mbra66]

Well I Finally FIXED MY PROBLEM. Look if I had unlimited funds I would have bit the bullet long ago and took vehicle to Nissan, but my past experience with Dealerships has usually been very costly and regretful. I have read so much on SES codes P1140 and P1145 that I feel almost like an expert on the codes. I read the service manual on the issue and related parts TOO many times, and I went thru all the tests and procedures just like others and TOWNCIVILLIAN recommended.

 

The point is that the Manual is a guide and you still need to have a mechanical mind and impulses to make it work for you . Some of you like REDRIDER and Howie have said that you tested your sensors, as I did, and New ones basically gave readings just like the Old ones, ditto for me. I also pulled my right side(Bank One) Solenoid after replacing the Sensor, the manual shows how to test it, which I did, and IT WAS WORKING. Clicking, voltages were correct, plus I was not showing a P1111 code . I had it out so to be sure I sprayed it with cleaner just too make sure it was not gummed up, but after re install, I still was getting P1140.

 

Before I tell any of you who are interested how I fixed my problem, I just want to tell some of you that this issue is NOT AS EASY or NOT SUCH A BIG DEAL as some of you have said. You know if when I got code P1140 and just replaced the sensor, as I did, and the light went out....I too would probably feel that way. But as luck would have it my SES light just kept coming back......and this supposed easy problem was a real nightmare.

 

Anyway the fix was something I MESSED UP with. In my earlier post I had said that I inspected the cam gear. This gear or sprocket has 3 grooves that are read by the VTC Sensor and I had cleaned it up. Well turns out it wasn't clean enough, with my girl tapping the starter, I discovered I missed 1 groove, which had some dirt in it. I cleaned it up and the other 2 again and NO MORE LIGHT! The light had been on so long and come on so many times, that now I am having trouble driving the truck without constantly looking down thinking it is going to come on again.

 

Not to make excuses, but if this had been a P1145 code, it would be so much easier because you can easily see the cam gear on the drivers side. This is not the case on the passenger side since 1) the hole faces downward and is awkward to look in to; and 2) the gear is Deeper or Further IN, from the opening on the passenger side. It is quite cumbersome to use an inspection mirror and flashlight to watch the gear and than get a brush inside to clean it. I did it....... and I hope this post helps anyone who ever has one of these codes, and finds the SES still on after the TYPICAL or EASY fixes don't work......IT just may be dirt on your cam gear!

[fixinto]

mbra66,

Good job man, keep up the good work. Thats the way to stick with it and recheck tried and true methods. Again good job.

Enjoy ur pathy, i sure do

[mbra66]

Thanks "Fixinto" I must say that now with out any SES Light, I really do love these Trucks. They offer a lot for little money and mine is rattle free even with 99k miles. Thanks again and good luck with yours, I really don't see that many Blue ones.