ahardb0dy Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I know this has been covered in multiple threads but I just installed the 110 amp alternator in my 94 pathfinder and did it a different way that hasn't been discussed so far. I'm not done with the install but everything is looking good so far. I'll be leaving in a few minutes to pick up a couple longer belts than I should be done, barring any unforeseen problems. I will say I installed the Quest alternator using the stock WD21 bracket with no modifications to it, the adjuster is still 100% functional and I have about 1.5" - 2" of adjustment available. After I get the right size belt and get it on, and make sure everything is OK, I will share how I did this. I will try to take pics but as of right now we are having a pretty good thunder storm and I am working under a canopy but still got soaking wet ! LOL Heading to the auto parts now, I'll be back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 That's great, I would love to see the install. I'm not sure if the factory harness is going to take that much under load. You might end up roasting fusible links. You could run a new harness of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 I plan on installing a new 4 gauge wire from the alternator stud to the battery as soon as I can get a length of 4 gauge. The wire that was on the Quest alternator did not look any larger than the one that is in my pathfinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 (edited) It could be a little thicker. Usually it's almost impossible to tell between close wire gauges without a ruler. Edited July 9, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Document the part number for the correct belt please as well, if I can get away with a simpler install I might actually USE one of the Quest alternators I have laying around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 X2 Please do tell which belt fits. I forgot to add that the 110 A is only rated output at 3000ish rpm. Once you get into the redline you might be pushing as much as 140 A or maybe even more. That's something to look into when considering upgrading the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) So, the stock length alternator belt is 37", I asked for a 37.5" and a 38" belt as I did not know which one would work, the auto parts store did not have a 38" belt so I bought a 37.5" and a 39" belt. The 37.5" belt was too small so I used the 39", it fits good and I still have about 3/4" more adjustment if I need it, if the belt stretches. The part number for the 39" belt in the Drive-rite brand is 39017, in Dayco it would be 17390, I do not know if a 38" or 38.5" would work as I did not try these. Anyway, I got the belt on, tightened it, started the truck, checked for clearance issues and all looks good. Shut it off and put the other 2 belts back on, checked clearances, still looked good, started it, everything worked good, checked voltage at battery 14.5 volts at first start up than dropped to 14.21. My install, first I held up the bracket I got from the Quest, of course it does not fit so I marked it and cut about 1.5" off the engine end and shaped the metal to match the part I cut off. Bolted the bracket onto the engine and the bend in the bracket is right where the belt has to go so this wouldn't work. I bolted the stock bracket back to the engine and started to figure out another option and this idea came to me. What I did was I used the cut off piece from the Quest bracket, drilled another hole on the other end and bolted it to the alternator, than the other end I used a nut and bolt and bolted it to the adjuster on the stock bracket. It worked out good because the piece I had cut off the Quest bracket has like a "L" shape to it, and I used the short side of the "L" up against the alternator mount and the adjustment block, this way as I put tension on the belt it pulls the alternator along with it. Hard to explain but I have pics. see below: showing clearance between alt pulley and AC belt: blurry pic (sorry) showing clearance between alt belt and bolt for the bracket I made: Tungsten, where are you getting your numbers from as to the output of the 110 amp Quest alternator? The FSM only gives 2 amp to RPM numbers and they are: more than 33 @ 1300 rpm more than 85 @ 2500 rpm I do know when you buy a reman alternator they usually include a test sheet of what the alt put out at different rpm's, I have to stop at the auto parts store tomorrow to return the belt I did not use, I'm going to see if they have a reman Quest alternator and if they do I'll ask if they can pull it so I can check the test sheet. Edited July 10, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 It was a guess based on my previous experiences with Nissan alternators. Here are actual test numbers from my 90A Maxima alternator: 2000 RPM = 76 Amps 2400 RPM = 89 Amps 3500 RPM = 107 Amps 5000 RPM = 115 Amps 6000 RPM = 117 Amps So as you can see it outputs 89A at 2400 rpm but 28A more at the redline. I figure the Quest version will be something like that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I plan on installing a new 4 gauge wire from the alternator stud to the battery as soon as I can get a length of 4 gauge. The wire that was on the Quest alternator did not look any larger than the one that is in my pathfinder. I pulled an alternator from a 2000 quest (125 amp). It had a 4 gauge wire from the post on the alternator following along the fan shroud and connected to the relay accessory box. Then from there it connected to the battery. If you start your truck with a run down battery it may over heat the factory wire. I was planning on running a 4 gauge cable when I later install the quest alternator but just adding a 6 or 8 gauge to the factory wire should be enough. If you do go 4 gauge get some of that fine strand flexible audio cable so it doesn't pull too much on the post on the alternator. On the quest the cable goes straight back from the alternator to the battery so the only load the cable gets on it is a rotational twisting when the motor torques. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Nice install man. I Found another option; today I installed a 90a alty from my M30 in a pathfinder. Stock bracket no extra pieces, the plug is on the block side so plug it in first and then run the wire across the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 thanks, My1path, the M30 alt looks just like the SOHC Maxima alt, Jamesrich, you said "I pulled an alternator from a 2000 quest (125 amp). It had a 4 gauge wire from the post on the alternator following along the fan shroud and connected to the relay accessory box. Then from there it connected to the battery." than said, "On the quest the cable goes straight back from the alternator to the battery" was this 2 different years? I always use audio power cable as it much more flexible than comparable gauge battery cable. I had 4 gauge piggybacked with the factory wire on my hardbody when I had a 160 amp alt in it. That is what the manufacturer told me to do, (Wrangler Power Products). Tungsten, I'll see if I can get the test data for the Quest alt, later after work to see what they say this alt puts out. driving the pathfinder to work today will see how it is on the 36 mile trip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 I may need to get a shorter belt, started the truck this morning and heard one of the belts squeal. Checked the belts before leaving work and it was the alt belt that was loose, drove home and tightened it but it's almost to the end of the adjuster. Will have to check another parts store to see if they have a 38" or 38.5" belt. Going to have to replace the AC belt anyway it doesn't look that great and I think it is an original JDM Nissan belt anyway. Other than the belt being loose everything else is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Jamesrich, you said "I pulled an alternator from a 2000 quest (125 amp). It had a 4 gauge wire from the post on the alternator following along the fan shroud and connected to the relay accessory box. Then from there it connected to the battery." than said, "On the quest the cable goes straight back from the alternator to the battery" was this 2 different years? I always use audio power cable as it much more flexible than comparable gauge battery cable. I had 4 gauge piggybacked with the factory wire on my hardbody when I had a 160 amp alt in it. That is what the manufacturer told me to do, (Wrangler Power Products). Same vehicle, and yes it goes to the relay box then the battery. My point was that the 4 gauge cable has a 90 degree tab on it where it bolts to the back of the alternator so the cable doesn't come out the side where it would flex up and down every time the motor moved. With it going straight back behind the alternator to where ever, the only movement it will get is a slight twisting so it's not pulling on the post on the alternator. The main point I'm trying to stress is if you bolt a big stiff cable to the charging post of the alternator with a straight eye terminal on it the movement of the motor on the rubber motor mounts will continually loosen the nut on the charging post or break it off. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 I got you, thanks for the tip. I need to get to the surplus store down here and pick up some 4 gauge, I need to re-do the power cable for my stereo in the PF too as the wiring kit I bought way back had "fake" 4 gauge in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Welding shops usually sell welding lead cable by the foot. It is fine strand cable too and doesn't have the transparent neon colored insulation on it! Don't want to make it look kiddy under the hood. Lol! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 So were you able to get any alternator dyno results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 no I didn't ask in the auto parts store because they were busy, next time I go in there I'll see if they have the quest alt and if they can pull it for me to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 Went to the autoparts to get some new belts and I had them pull a Quest alternator but it did not have any test results in it. As I said prviously, the stock alt belt is 37" long, I tried a 37.5 and it was too short, I had a 39" long belt on it but it was at the end of the adjuster so today I picked up 38 & 38.5" belts, at first the 38" would not fit because I ran out of adjuster room when moving the alt closer to the engine but after taking the bolt out I was able to move the alt closer to the engine and the 38" long belt went right on. I re-installed the bolt and tightened the belt no problem, plenty of room now to make it tighter if need be. For reference the 38" belt number is: Dayco - 38017 Drive-rite - 17380 Duralast - 17380 Napa - PBH 17380 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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