dynomax Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Wow. I've been running 40 psi for over a year now and my blocks are wearing, however they are seem to be wearing evenly. How many miles do you expect to get from those duratracs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeraedave Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 I'm running the EMU springs, mediums on the front, EMU rear shocks. At the time that I did the lift, the EMU struts weren't yet available, so I used the KYB. I had intended to upgrade when the EMU's became available, but the KYB seem to work pretty good, and the were a third the price. If I do upgrade, I'll probably throw a spacer in the front when I have it apart. The Duratracs are pretty soft, and I do probably 95% street driving, I'm hoping for 40K miles, about 3 years for my driving amount. I did buy a 5th tire for my spare, and use that in my rotations, so I expect reasonable tire life. The scary ones are the tires that I have on my Mustang, they last about 12K miles, but I only drive it about 4K miles a year so they still last 3 years. Between the UV and ozone, 3 years is about all a tire is supposed to really last anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) I'm running the EMU springs, mediums on the front, EMU rear shocks. At the time that I did the lift, the EMU struts weren't yet available, so I used the KYB. I had intended to upgrade when the EMU's became available, but the KYB seem to work pretty good, and the were a third the price. If I do upgrade, I'll probably throw a spacer in the front when I have it apart. The Duratracs are pretty soft, and I do probably 95% street driving, I'm hoping for 40K miles, about 3 years for my driving amount. I did buy a 5th tire for my spare, and use that in my rotations, so I expect reasonable tire life. The scary ones are the tires that I have on my Mustang, they last about 12K miles, but I only drive it about 4K miles a year so they still last 3 years. Between the UV and ozone, 3 years is about all a tire is supposed to really last anyway. I had duratracs on my work (woods) truck (f150 2x4) and got 80k kms out of them , about 50k mi, but that was a lot of gravel, and snow covered woods road driving, and highway back and fourth. i would say 40k km highway, and 40 was gravel in summertime and snow covered winter roads. THey held up well and wore very even to my surprise, and i ran them low psi for good ride... about 28psi. To contrast that, i've had them on my new work truck (2012 chev 2x4) (new job, all city street driving) and at 12,000kms they are showing no wear, and very even much to my surprise for city driving. I am running them at about 38psi. All the reasons i bought a set for my pathfinder. I have micky thompson baja ATZ now at about 40psi on that. Guys at work are big on bfg AT, and getting no more than 60k kms (35mi) on them on halftons. Edited June 30, 2012 by dynomax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeraedave Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 I did a tire rotation a couple of weeks ago, my first on these tires, and had 1/16 more wear on the fronts than the rears. My toe is good, darn near 0, so I figure it's just a factor of weight and cornering a little too aggressively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNWade Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Really nice job. This gives me some food for thought too. I have the AC 2" lift that I put on in Jan. Since, I had to replace passenger side CV, and as of today, I think I'll have to fix the driver side too. I've been thinking that the tire/strut issue is stressing the CV's, so I've been trying to figure out the best approach: wheels w/ less backspace, wheel spacers, manual hubs or combination. Part of me likes the 'stealthiness' of stock wheels... people don't take it as a competent off road vehicle, but some "black steelies" could give her a more aggressive look. (BTW, I *LOVE* the Duratracs. I should have gotten those had I given it a month's more thought.) I have the same '04 SE and don't see a lot of those in the forum, so your solution is a great one for me too. Did you put spacers both front & rear? And, did you ever have issues with the CV's prior to the mod? Again, nicely done!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeraedave Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Thanks TNWade. Personally, I prefer the look of factory wheels on most cars. I'm kind of into subtle. I was out wheeling last weekend and the hubs worked flawlessly. As it turns out, I lost about 1.5 mpg when I put the Duratracs on, and I pretty much gained it back with the hub install. I had no problems with my cv joints prior to installing the lift a couple/few months ago, and put the hubs on to prevent troubles. I did have to replace a torn boot, but the truck has 145K on it and it is an OEM axle, so maybe still the original. I only put the spacers on the front, and only because I needed them so the wheels would clear the hubs, as I said earlier there is about a 1/8" interference with out the spacers. I do want to stress though that you HAVE to use longer wheel studs. I was only getting about 8 full revolutions on my lug nuts when everything was factory. That's not even 7/16" of thread engagement, not enough IMO, and decreasing that by 1/4" with the spacer is unsafe. The longer studs that I installed were a very easy upgrade with a bench vise and a few different sized sockets. The 1.5mm pitch feels much more "engaged" than the 1.25mm OEM threads. The whole mod was pretty straight forward. It took me all day, but I replaced a boot, changed the studs, cleaned then greased my bearings, and installed the hubs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Sorry to resurrect an old post as my first post at NPORA. Seems I bought the OP's Pathfinder earlier this year, just stumbled on this, and thought I'd share how I reverted his setup a little, since I wanted the same thread pitch at all corners (a problem discovered when I tried to install wheel locks) but needed to account for the spacers and hubs. I replaced the front studs with OEM studs for the rear, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer. The .0067" difference in the knurled diameter is negligible; the knurled shoulder height is irrelevant (at .1574", it's either consumed by the spacer or the lug nut seat of the wheel anyway). They've also got the same pitch, obviously. The Dorman p/n is 610320 (Dorman front is 610240); RockAuto has all the specs. They installed without a hitch (as expected). Also bought a new set of lug nuts for all corners; $20 on eBay, taller than stock to ensure clearance up front, match the height of the wheel locks, and fit the stock tire iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totriz Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 just wanted to confirm that the rugged ridge hubs fit perfectly on the 17 inch LE wheels (mine is a 2003 pathfinder) there's no need to use spacers if you have these: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x208/totriz/unnamed_zps961537b6.jpg~original Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lerch641 Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 (edited) Edited October 13, 2014 by lerch641 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Perfect timing, totriz...I was actually just surfing around to confirm exactly this. (Yes, literally the LE 17" wheel and RR hub combo.) Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJR50BC Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 I'm trying to do the same thing with a 2003 SE. I don't want to use spacers. Has anyone had any experience with OE Nissan or aftermarket knock-offs like these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/231640957764?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/1765789603/Brand_new_4WD_manual_locking_hubs_for.jpg Would they fit? If I take off my OE auto hubs, I have about 1 3/8" or clearance to the dreaded lip on the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 I have those LE Wheels pictured above by Lerch641 ... so No spacers needed ... Great news ... but what about studs ... were stockers they long enough or did you need to use the longer and switch them out ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 You talking longer wheels studs, or longer studs for installing the hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Please Tell me if either need extended .. ..I guess I was reading that the wheel studs needed or were preferred to be extended by some ...but if there is a preference or need for other studs please Inform me ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 If longer studs are necessary, they'll be included with the hubs. Warn includes new studs. Not sure about the ones in Totriz's pic. My truck is the one in the thread, which came with the hubs and spacers. I don't know if the OE studs were used (doesn't look like the RR hubs include studs), but I replaced the wheels studs solely to allow for the 1/4" spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totriz Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Please Tell me if either need extended .. ..I guess I was reading that the wheel studs needed or were preferred to be extended by some ...but if there is a preference or need for other studs please Inform me ... you only need to buy the hubs. no spacers or new studs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patqx4 Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Even though the warns come with new studs, I didn't need them at all. The stock studs were long enough to grab all the threads on the nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 You guys are Awesome ... thanks so much !!! Going to get some Rugged's and get going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 You guys are Awesome ... thanks so much !!! Going to get some Rugged's and get going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Before I pull the trigger on The Rugged Ridge ... 15001.61 is this the best for 2004 ? Pros and others (Mile Markers) half the price ... and also Rugged Ridge not supporting the 2004 in its application guides .. Anyone give me an opinion please .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 "Best" is subjective, of course. If it's listed as fitting anything 96-04, it'll fit an 04. If you're just looking to reduce driveline drag, the RRs are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Hawairish , Thanks for the Reply , but I was asking because the Rugged Ridge will not admit they fit the 04's they only say to 01 ... the Mile Markers do claim to fit the 04 .. in the application guides or on their sites and yes looking to reduce motion and drag .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 They'll fit. Hawairish , Thanks for the Reply , but I was asking because the Rugged Ridge will not admit they fit the 04's they only say to 01 ... the Mile Markers do claim to fit the 04 ..in the application guides or on their sitesand yes looking to reduce motion and drag .. I have an 04 with the RR hubs. In fact, I own the original poster's truck... Just in case anyone has been baffled by this, I just finished the mod. The hole in the center of the stock 03 & 04 6 spoke wheels is too small for Warn hubs, but Rugged Ridge 15001.61 will fit, you just need to use a 1/4" spacer behind the wheels or the lip where the Nissan center cap goes will hit the lip of the hub. Since you have the 17" LE wheel... just wanted to confirm that the rugged ridge hubs fit perfectly on the 17 inch LE wheels (mine is a 2003 pathfinder) there's no need to use spacers if you have these: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 I think that should settle it ! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litey Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Well Thanks for Proving that they fit in and through the wheel . Don't know why Rugged Ridge won't say that they work for 2004 ...unless they just don't want to hear about the 4WD warning light complaints ....that will go on and off .. I don't think that does any harm .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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