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V8 pathy swap


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Ive done alot of research and I want to go with a 350 small block chevy swap for my pathfinder. I dont want 4x4 I just want two wheel drive, would this make the swap alot easier to do since you just mostly have to worry about fitting it in there and tranny,driveshaft and rear I know its a big job im just wondering if its easier trying to hook everything up without 4x4 thanks

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Not that I've ever done an engine swap... but yeah, I'd imagine it would. One driveshaft instead of two, no transfer case to worry about, and no worrying about clearing the front diff.

 

On the other hand... I'm not sure quite what the point of a 2WD Pathy would be. But then, it snows here. :)

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Yea thats what I thought it snows here sometimes bit thats just more fun to have and I got the two door pathy soo its not that heavy as the 4doors. Its underpowered so might as well make it over powered lol and the 4x4 parts will reduce alot of weight

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With V8 power and torque you are better off just keeping it on the road. In snow you will do fine with 2WD as long as you have the right tires and a limited slip differential.

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Having no front diff will be a Godsend for you, Nissan did a dummy job of fitting it in there... to get it in/out you have to lift up the engine and fight it. And to get the engine out you have to remove the diff. :togo:

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Is your pathfinder currently a 4x2? If not I would at least keep the front cv's conected to the hubs.

 

Are you looking to lift it at all or to lower it?

 

Are you gonna run it at the track or is it just gonna be a streeter?

 

With what you want to do you can run any tranny/ engine combo you want in it.

 

On skinnys it should go through snow no problem, if your running 12.5s you'll wish for 4wd.

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Having no front diff will be a Godsend for you, Nissan did a dummy job of fitting it in there... to get it in/out you have to lift up the engine and fight it. And to get the engine out you have to remove the diff. :togo:

Yes. The front differential is really sketchy to install and remove because it interferes with the engine oil pan. Running the truck with 2WD only will have plenty of benefits. The CV shafts are going to suck with a powerful V8 engine anyway. You can always do a solid axle swap later on and get 4x4 back if you wanted to.

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I might drop it a lil but I kinda wanted to keep it stock height and its 4x4 now but I just wnt 4x2 cause I dnt do a whole lot of offroading and I drive it the street constantly. The frame surprisingly is actually pretty solid theres just some rust on the body and we got like two inches of snow this year and like 4 feet of snow the year before but I wouldnt be driving it in snow cause im gna register it as a classic and totally restore it. Theres like three 2 door pathys around here and ill be the only one with a nasty v8 up front lolz

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Modified vehicles cannot be registered as Historic under New Jersey law. They require you to submit two pictures so that they can make sure you are on all original equipment with original body work. I think you can get it to factory first, register it, then start the modification. :lol: I don't know about the renewal process though. It is still possible to qualify for Street Rod status but you need membership somewhere or something like that.

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Yes, they mostly care about the exterior. However, if they see any custom exhaust work such as side pipes you are automatically disqualified. Just something you want to watch for.

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Def will thanks im prob going to go with dual exhaust that u cant see sticking out the back but one more question ill have to replace the fuel pump right and would I be able to use the stock gas tank thanks in advance

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You don't need to replace the fuel pump. That fuel pump is plenty capable of handling up to 300 hp. The other thing you want to watch for if you want a Historic plate is NO HOOD SCOOPS. If they see a hood that was not factory, you are also disqualified.

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You don't need to replace the fuel pump. That fuel pump is plenty capable of handling up to 300 hp.

i would hope that a chevy 350 would make more than 300hp. Also, the fuel pump may be able to handle up to 300hp, but that's probably balls to the wall.

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If it's carburated, the fuel pressure is going to be different. Fuel injectors need much more pressure where as with carbs as long as you got enough fuel going in to match the air, you're good. Also, I doubt that a stock 350 Chevy will make over 300hp. It may get close to making 300 but to go over that would need some expensive parts.

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Also, I doubt that a stock 350 Chevy will make over 300hp. It may get close to making 300 but to go over that would need some expensive parts.

.....you're kidding...right? :puterpunch:

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1967–1969 L48 SS350 350 cu in (5.7 L) V8 295 hp (220 kW) (1969 300 hp (224 kW)) @ 4800 rpm, 380 lb·ft (515 N·m) @ 3200 rpm

http://en.wikipedia....rst_generation)

 

Are you sure you know anything about cars? They were pumping out 300hp from 350s over 40 years ago.

 

Did you even read the page that you linked above?

In 1970 the 350 was "rated at 370 bhp in early Corvette sales literature, but actually only sold as 360 bhp version at 6000 rpm and 380 lb-ft at 4000[7] (the NHRA rated it at 425 hp for classification purposes). "

 

My friend has a 1975 Chevy Vega with a 327 swap (that's LESS displacement for those people who don't know how engines work) and it easily puts out 350hp on stock internals. It's some engine from the 70s. carbureted, naturally aspirated, etc.

Edited by 1994SEV6
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They did but not over 300. Then they went to fuel injection and got more power. Not sure if he is planning on running a carb one or fuel injected.

 

"780 CFM Holley four-barrel CARBURETOR on a special aluminum intake"..."rated at 370 bhp in early Corvette sales literature, but actually only sold as 360 bhp version at 6000 rpm and 380 lb-ft at 4000[7] (the NHRA rated it at 425 hp for classification purposes).

 

 

Just stop now. Please, for your own good. You're very wrong about this. I know older GM engines very well.

Edited by 1994SEV6
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OK but that four barrel is an expensive part. :lol:

Holley is worth it.

 

P.S. to the OP, go with carbureted. Don't mess around with fuel injected swaps. That's a pain! It also costs a whole bunch more.

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